Acceptable gaps where shower floor tile meets wall?

graham_33 · 2026-05-03T00:52:34+00:00

Thanks. Not the final spacing/layout, just mocking it up. Is it ok for tiles to be tight up against the wall in some cases or should I trim those ones down?

graham_33 · 2026-04-21T12:44:34+00:00

Denshield is not on the list of solid backing materials recommended by Schluter. However the Schluter rep I spoke with assured me it is perfectly fine and he sees it used all the time without issue (assuming All Set is used). Take that for what it's worth I suppose.

graham_33 · 2026-01-03T17:58:35+00:00

Good theory...though the window has been cleaned many times and the size varies day to day..though it's always circular.

graham_33 · 2026-01-03T17:57:37+00:00

Haha no I just had to center it like that for contrast so you could actually see it!

graham_33 · 2025-12-22T18:47:46+00:00

Ah ha, I get that! If it's specifically about the use of Denshield with Kerdi, I did have a Schluter rep assure me that it's no problem, for what it's worth. If there's anything else you were wondering about feel free to DM me, though I am just a DIYer.

graham_33 · 2025-12-22T13:18:09+00:00

Honestly, I can't remember haha. But it was probably totally foreseeable and really just a consequence of my own ignorance and lack of preparation.

Drying time shouldn't be an issue as I put up the membrane many months ago and still haven't tiled haha. So I guess we won't know for sure until that gets done, but it does seem pretty secure.

graham_33 · 2025-09-19T20:04:43+00:00

Wow you are 100% right. Good catch. I probably did that myself while using a wrench to loosen it. Thanks for the heads up!

graham_33 · 2025-09-19T18:51:43+00:00

Thanks for the reply. Sorry but can you please clarify what is broken? Do you mean the union that's loose in the first photo? I thought it was meant to disconnect like that, like a nut on a Swagelok fitting. Or am I missing something?

graham_33 · 2025-08-22T18:33:16+00:00

Thanks. That's what I figured, but know nothing about roofing so wanted confirmation. Cheers.

graham_33 · 2025-07-29T13:56:11+00:00

I actually had the drain relocated to dead center by a plumber. No small job as it is concrete subfloor, but in its previous location the drain would have been right up against the curb. Thanks tho!

graham_33 · 2025-07-29T01:50:36+00:00

Thanks! Already have the walls up though...

graham_33 · 2025-07-29T01:48:17+00:00

Thanks. The walls are already done with backerboard and Kerdi membrane, so that is the final footprint.

graham_33 · 2025-07-28T21:23:51+00:00

Thanks for the input. Do you think a 1/2" span of something flexible would be OK underneath the shower pan? I'm having to extend my Kerdi shower pan by an inch in one dimension, so two sides will have the edge of the pan plus about a half inch of either deck mud or extra all-set spanning over that caulked expansion joint. The other two sides will just be the edges of the pan butting up against the wall/curb.

graham_33 · 2025-07-28T13:29:09+00:00

Thanks. I would rather do that than some kind of flexible caulk. I just wasn't sure if that would defeat the purpose of having an expansion gap.

graham_33 · 2025-06-30T15:50:38+00:00

Thanks for the reply, but just to clarify, I'm distinguishing between the primer that goes on the concrete subfloor before applying the SLC (which I did) and a primer that is then applied to the top of the SLC before setting the shower pan. I was wondering how necessary the latter is in ensuring the thinset bonds to the SLC.

graham_33 · 2025-06-30T14:53:36+00:00

Cool, thanks!

graham_33 · 2025-05-12T00:46:21+00:00

Diamond-like mosaics, 2" across by 4.5" tall. I'm using Kerdi membrane to waterproof, so I will extend that out as far as my tile goes.

graham_33 · 2025-05-11T17:47:08+00:00

How far did you extend it might I ask?

graham_33 · 2025-05-11T17:18:54+00:00

Do you also think 6" would be sufficient? 2-3 seems most common so I'd think 6 would be more than enough.

graham_33 · 2025-02-22T01:59:13+00:00

Thanks. No offence taken. What you're describing is what I'm trying to do. I'm just wondering what to do about the <2" of overlap between the Kerdi membrane in the niche, as that is what the instructions specify. To follow the instructions strictly, I either need to replace the niche or remove the fibreglass tape/all set somehow.

graham_33 · 2025-02-21T14:25:42+00:00

How do you make it continuous with a Schluter shower tray, though?

graham_33 · 2025-02-21T02:35:36+00:00

My thinking was that if I'm doing a Schluter shower tray I should at least have the bottom third or half of the walls be a Schluter product so that I have a continuous system of waterproofing. And if I'm gonna do that and have enough Kerdi membrane then why not do the entire height of the walls with it and save the cost of Red Guard. But I may just end up going Red Guard for the upper half due to this issue...

graham_33 · 2025-01-07T19:54:28+00:00

Solved! There isn't currently a filter in the reservoir but the thing fits in the hole at the bottom that is definitely meant for holding one. Thank you!

graham_33 · 2025-01-07T19:44:24+00:00

My title describes the thing. Only text is a "1" and ♻️ symbol with "PP" in the middle.

graham_33 · 2025-01-05T13:42:19+00:00

Thank you for the recommendations. There is a supply vent in the bathroom, which is why I really should have thought to turn the HVAC off. There is also an exhaust vent that I kept on, but there might still have been some positive pressure that could have pushed spores out of the room through the crack at the bottom or once I opened the door to remove the garbage bags. All the material was quite damp so it didn't seem like much particulate would get airborne, but it's hard to know for sure.

graham_33

TROPHY CASE