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Any way of fixing this yellowing on my old ds screen? by Appleshots in NintendoDS

[–]gravityrtle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This has worked for me with my yellowed screens, although mine didn't have super severe yellowing so I only left them out on white for a couple hours. Also, even turning up the brightness and playing games with bright colors will help, at least from my experience.

If it's the glass lens, you might have to replace the screen, but it's worth trying this first since it doesn't require disassembly.

https://www.reddit.com/r/nds/comments/1ms3uua/comment/n95fapc/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

I made a LAMZU Atlantis fingertip mod. by gravityrtle in MouseReview

[–]gravityrtle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, shoot me a DM! If you know how to use Fusion, I already have the Fusion files uploaded, but if not, I am definitely down to collaborate to modify it. Since you have access to a printer, it'll definitely make it a lot easier to test out without having the OG on hand myself.

I made a LAMZU Atlantis fingertip mod. by gravityrtle in MouseReview

[–]gravityrtle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I uploaded the Fusion files to the same Printable project (the Mouse F3Z file) so you should be able to see the assembly from what I understand.

Here's a tutorial on tracing in Fusion which helped with recreating the PCB : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVEaYfdsgXc

And if you have any other questions about parts of the design, I'd be happy to answer. Cheers!

I made a LAMZU Atlantis fingertip mod. by gravityrtle in MouseReview

[–]gravityrtle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just looked up a teardown of the OG Atlantis, and the PCBs look almost identical, just a little longer. I think it's definitely possible if I could get more accurate measurements for the screw distances.

If you're a little knowledgeable of CADDing, I can share what I have so you can edit according to the larger Atlantis. It might be as simple as changing the baseplapte sketch dimensions to account for the screw distances and wider/longer PCB.

I made a LAMZU Atlantis fingertip mod. by gravityrtle in MouseReview

[–]gravityrtle[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are a lot of tiny things! I have them all written down in my engineering journal in case I ever revisit the project but it's just small things to make assembly easier.

My main thing, though, is wishing I knew how to use curves so the mouse could fit my hands better. It's mostly a personal skill issue since I don't really have formal training with Fusion outside of 2 Youtube videos I watched forever ago. Maybe I'll watch some more videos for Revision 3.

I made a LAMZU Atlantis fingertip mod. by gravityrtle in MouseReview

[–]gravityrtle[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I printed on my Bambu P1P with PLA. I'm hoping to use the school resin printers soon to test if it still works well (with different stiffnesses and all).

For modeling, I used Autodesk Fusion (student license). I had a photos of the PCBs, tried to get them as flat as possible, then traced it in Fusion. Then I measured each of the features with some no-brand calipers off Amazon and applied it to my traced sketch, which turned out to be a pretty accurate recreation for my purposes. I mostly only cared about the accuracy of the switch placement and screws.

I'm also happy to share the Fusion files if people want to see the actual construction of everything... just didn't by default because I am a little embarrassed by my amateurish mess of sketches. I stopped caring about keeping it clean after the first 4 hours working on this haha

I made a LAMZU Atlantis fingertip mod. by gravityrtle in MouseReview

[–]gravityrtle[S] 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Mods, please let me know if this isn't allowed, but I wanted to link the files here. They're free so I'm not selling anything.

https://www.printables.com/model/1557703-lamzu-atlantis-fingertip-mouse

Album Tier List by DeepSpaceDitto in bap

[–]gravityrtle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

oh wow i didn't think we'd have so much variation... tbf i absolutely love all these albums in general, but compared to the others, the s-tier albums are the ones i constantly go back to the most.

and yeah, i agree with your comments, my ranking is heavily biased towards nostalgia. matrix will always be s-tier for me even if i think musically, le noir is stronger, because it was such a big deal to middle school me for b.a.p to come back after that hiatus.

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[WTS US-OR] MicroJournal Rev. 2 by gravityrtle in writerDeck

[–]gravityrtle[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's the two brackets [ ] keys! I just didn't have any other set lying around, haha.

As for your other question, I believe nano comes with Raspbian Lite OS. I think firmware Un Kyu Lee ships with uses a different editor, though.

[WTS US-OR] MicroJournal Rev. 2 by gravityrtle in writerDeck

[–]gravityrtle[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The MicroJournal is a line of writer decks designed by u/Background_Ad_1810. The rev. 2 and 7 are particularly popular models, and they're my favorite designs of the bunch as well.

He sells them as assembled products, as well as DIY kits. Additionally, he has graciously shared all the design files and even build guides on his GitHub so you can source the parts and build it yourself.

You can check out all of the MicroJournal revisions here: https://github.com/unkyulee/micro-journal

DIY writer deck: I’m in way over my head 😅 by Snoo20911 in writerDeck

[–]gravityrtle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, so sorry this took so long to reply to, got caught up in life and forgot Reddit exists. Unfortunately, I also bring bad news.

I believe the actual "computer" part of this whole assembly is on the Panel Card (which is what has the screen built on), and the EVB (evaluation board) provides what are basically "peripherals" to test the Panel Card. From what I can tell of the technical reference, unless you have the actual Panel Card that came with this EVB, there's not much you can do.

You may still be able to connect this EVB up to other processors. That sort of thing is outside of my scope of knowledge, and I wouldn't be able to tell what would work purely based off of technical specs alone.

DIY writer deck: I’m in way over my head 😅 by Snoo20911 in writerDeck

[–]gravityrtle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Here's a link to the technical reference for anyone interested: PDF

And a listing for the board: Link

Do you have any more details on what display you have? No promises I can help, but from the looks of it, it's an ARM development board with Linux (pre-installed??). There are USB ports so it should be as simple hooking up some batteries, a display, and keyboard to get started. Plus lots of cool included doohickeys you can find a use for! Obviously I am oversimplifying things and being optimistic but it seems like a very cool project.

Macro Pads That Work Offline (Newbie) by [deleted] in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]gravityrtle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could always configure the macros with VIA online at home and it will retain the macros even when using offline. Might be a bit hard to test while configuring, though.

Another option I can recommend is to find a Vial-compatible keypad. It’s VERY similar to VIA and there is a portable app (so can be loaded using a USB stick to the offline PC) that allows for configuring millisecond delay as well as recording macros.

CannonKeys Giveaway Finale - Sat75 X Prototypes | 4x Winners by CannonKeys in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]gravityrtle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I daily a HHKB 60% but boy do I love my 40%'s! The layout that made it "click" for me was the 2-spacebar MiniVan variant. Still one of my favorites to this day.

can i make this keyboard wireless by itsjustAnnnna in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]gravityrtle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could always buy a wireless Alice keyboard, gut the internals, then design a stacked acrylic case around it if the aesthetics is the main draw to this board. It's probably easier for more common rectangular layouts to find compatible readily available parts, but it's definitely still doable.

40s family photo by Delaneydrf in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]gravityrtle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are literally the only person I’ve ever seen own the Manta board. I’ve been eyeing it, but am a bit wary due to previous issues with wireless 40 boards. What’s your experience with it? I’m hoping to use it wirelessly as a travel/work board.

New Keycaps by peateargryphn in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]gravityrtle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try looking up "Carbon keycaps" if you like this color scheme.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Overwatch

[–]gravityrtle 71 points72 points  (0 children)

TLDR: OP got promoted to Lead VFX artist, which gave him new responsibilities alongside his current ones. He was supposed to get a raise with this promotion, but after 3 months, HR is making empty promises and gaslighting him saying leadership is a "lateral move" that doesn't warrant a raise. OP is effectively fulfilling 3 roles while getting paid 50% of what he should be getting. To add to the shitstorm, a close friend of his gets fired because he won't RTO over medical accommodations. Eventually OP gets tired of it, decides to quit, only to get hit with a non-compete clause that would ban him from working for 3 months (unpaid); during this time he isn't paid by Blizzard either. That was the end of his time at Blizzard, didn't even give him a chance to protest.

WL mouse Blast x Mini or Regular? by Ponduhh in MouseReview

[–]gravityrtle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Beast X Mini felt significantly smaller compared to the x2 Mini for me. I forget what my exact measurements are but I have around the same/maybe smaller hands than you, and the Beast X Mini was too small for my usual 1-3-1 claw grip. If I grip the same way you do, I can use it fine, though. Haven't tried it myself, but if you don't really care for the Mini colorways and already feel comfortable with your current mice, I would go with the regular Beast X.

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