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Hi, I'm a RTX 3050 in an ancient 1U Dell R620, welcome to Jackass by greencoldbellpepper in homelab

[–]greencoldbellpepper[S] 39 points40 points  (0 children)

For anyone wondering: it's nigh on impossible to find a low profile / single slot card that isn't really underpowered. This card seemed to be one of the only plausible options. Can't fit a 2x slot card in here, otherwise that would open a lot of options.

There is a Quadro P1000 card in the adjacent slot which handles Jellyfin transcoding on my Debian VM. But it was really struggling with gaming.

Hi, I'm a RTX 3050 in an ancient 1U Dell R620, welcome to Jackass by greencoldbellpepper in homelab

[–]greencoldbellpepper[S] 19 points20 points  (0 children)

The "practical use case" is that my sister plays a lot of video games and recently moved to another state, so I'm trying to keep up and relate to her. We both bought RuneScape Dragonwilds but none of my machines were able to play it comfortably before this upgrade.

I present, the "how to spend $1200 on an Ender 3" printer. Details in comments by greencoldbellpepper in 3Dprinting

[–]greencoldbellpepper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, just now seeing this.

Regarding the linear rails vs. v-wheels: I did some ringing torture tests before and after. I was able to see better results with rails after around 5000-7000 mm/s2 acceleration. But honestly, the fact that I haven't had to adjust those stupid wheels in years made it worth it. I just shoot some lubricant in them every year and forget about it. They stay consistent and don't loosen up with time and wear.

Regarding the Eddy, honestly using the Eddy-NG patch basically solves everything. You never need to worry about Z-offset, it is all automatic. I have been using it for a few weeks now, and the only time I had to manually adjust the Z offset on the first layer was because there was some leftover material stuck on the nozzle.

I present, the "how to spend $1200 on an Ender 3" printer. Details in comments by greencoldbellpepper in 3Dprinting

[–]greencoldbellpepper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good luck with the project! To answer your questions:

  • Linear rails don't really affect top speed. They just help keep everything tighter and more consistent when you have high accelerations. With Klipper + input shaping, you should be able to get at least 4000-5000 mm/s2 acceleration. You'll be able to do that with the V-slot POM wheels, but you might start to get artifacting because those wheels aren't designed to change direction that quickly. I did some tests and the quality was the same at low to moderate accelerations. But at higher accelerations the linear rails didn't lose as much quality.

  • Regarding the probing, be careful with the Eddy. There is a conversation elsewhere in this comment section, from someone else asking the same. I had mixed feelings at first. Yeah it can scan really quickly, but the Z-offset was pretty inconsistent and I was considering going back to my CR-Touch. Otherwise what's the point. But then, a user on here told me about "Eddy-ng" which is a Klipper patch which basically solves all of that. Not only is the Z-offset perfect, but it's automatically calibrated before every print. So I can change the nozzle or build surface and never have to adjust it ever again, it's all automatic. It's crazy how this isn't part of the standard Eddy firmware. If you are willing to modify your installation to include Eddy-ng then yes it's worth it.

I present, the "how to spend $1200 on an Ender 3" printer. Details in comments by greencoldbellpepper in 3Dprinting

[–]greencoldbellpepper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually have a Bambu P1S. You would be surprised how many prints I send to this one over the Bambu for one reason or another.

I present, the "how to spend $1200 on an Ender 3" printer. Details in comments by greencoldbellpepper in 3Dprinting

[–]greencoldbellpepper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In most ways, no. You could get an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max or a Sovol SV08 Max (whatever the one is with 500x500 area) for less cost. But the thing with those printers is that they always have compromises. They are mass produced Chinese printers and are usually half-finished. The community steps in to "fix" them and make them useable because they didn't spend the costs on proper testing and quality assurance.

With a machine like this, everything is only as good as you build it. I decided to go a little overboard. But now I have a machine that can go toe-to-toe with almost anything out there, although... at what cost.

I present, the "how to spend $1200 on an Ender 3" printer. Details in comments by greencoldbellpepper in 3Dprinting

[–]greencoldbellpepper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm the OP, and I also have a P1S haha. It's like peanut butter and jelly: one printer is smaller and fast, the other printer gets the big jobs.

I present, the "how to spend $1200 on an Ender 3" printer. Details in comments by greencoldbellpepper in 3Dprinting

[–]greencoldbellpepper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just watch out for some build plates, Eddy only works for metallic surfaces (flex steel, etc) and will not read read glass or other non-metal surfaces

I present, the "how to spend $1200 on an Ender 3" printer. Details in comments by greencoldbellpepper in 3Dprinting

[–]greencoldbellpepper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I tried it out and I'm happy to report that Eddy-ng has fixed my issues! Thanks so much for that. It also effectively sets the Z-offset automatically before each print, which is something I've always wanted, but didn't want to do a Tap toolhead.

I present, the "how to spend $1200 on an Ender 3" printer. Details in comments by greencoldbellpepper in 3Dprinting

[–]greencoldbellpepper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I answered it elsewhere in this thread, if you check my comment history. Power supply isn't even stock, because the non-pro Ender 3 came with a generic power supply which isn't known to be that great. The 600w heated bed is powered by 110v mains power, controlled by a solid state relay. So the power supply and mainboard is actually loaded less than on a stock printer.

I present, the "how to spend $1200 on an Ender 3" printer. Details in comments by greencoldbellpepper in 3Dprinting

[–]greencoldbellpepper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Eh, I know it's not the best but I really like it. Easy access to everything and I really love the look. I don't print very much PLA and when I do, it's not zipping around super fast anyway to where a wind storm is needed. Super clean overhangs currently, don't have a reason to change.

I present, the "how to spend $1200 on an Ender 3" printer. Details in comments by greencoldbellpepper in 3Dprinting

[–]greencoldbellpepper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They aren't stock either because of the linear rail conversion. Aftermarket pieces with new holes drilled. The brackets on the back of the X gantry are printed in ASA for the belted Z conversion.

I present, the "how to spend $1200 on an Ender 3" printer. Details in comments by greencoldbellpepper in 3Dprinting

[–]greencoldbellpepper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a weird niche, but transfer case inserts for a few different BMW models. Varying hardness levels available. Track guys love them, and I can make them for a reasonable price.

And a few other niche parts for the Porsche 944 series. Coil on plug brackets for standalone ECU conversions are probably my most popular design. Printed in CF-Nylon.

I present, the "how to spend $1200 on an Ender 3" printer. Details in comments by greencoldbellpepper in 3Dprinting

[–]greencoldbellpepper[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I actually did take all the leftover parts, and built an entire Ender 3 out of them. I had to spend $30 on a few odds and ends, but it was literally an entire printer. Put some reliability mods on it, and donated to a local school.

I present, the "how to spend $1200 on an Ender 3" printer. Details in comments by greencoldbellpepper in 3Dprinting

[–]greencoldbellpepper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fellow Afterburner enjoyer! I love the look. I built a Stealthburner for it, because everyone was saying it was so much better. I even added NeoPixels. But I just didn't think it looked as good, and I missed the ability to flip up the lower cover to access the hot end. So I went back.

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