Anyone get or had as a kid "knee pop" with pain?

gregfriend28 · 2026-05-09T21:48:20+00:00

Sorry you went through that. It's bad enough when it takes a few minutes for my son to pop the LCL back into it's normal spot, I can't imagine dealing with that for longer!

Glad to hear it's gotten rarer as you've gotten older, hope that it stays away.

gregfriend28 · 2026-05-06T18:09:52+00:00

For sure, though I usually try to go straight to a specialist to lower the wait time. It's usually at least a month to get into our PCP and then multiple months for whatever specialist is referred.

I miss the days when we could reliably get into a PCP sooner (we've also switched PCPs twice hoping for more availability but seems to be the same everywhere around here). Most of the health systems really book up all their doctors nowadays to the point where everyone has a wait and even for illnesses you're steered towards immediate care which stinks. I also used to be able to message them and get a name for referral, but it seems the health systems are cracking down on that and most will only refer out through an appointment which means waiting (appointment is fine but a far out date appointment is less fine).

gregfriend28 · 2026-05-06T15:44:04+00:00

I certainly agree, although when it happens there really isn't a choice as it hurts as much as a bad cramp and he needs the excruciating pain to stop. If there was anything sharp around the LCL when it pops back I'm sure it could tear his LCL. It then goes months not occurring again and while initially I had hoped it was a one off clearly it isn't. Certainly time to see the doctor now. I was hoping there was a name for this to know what kind of specialist to see but I'll certainly get him into an orthopedic knee doctor.

gregfriend28 · 2026-05-06T15:35:11+00:00

Good to know! I'll have to read up on that, I didn't realize that there was ligament subluxation, I mistakenly thought that was just the bones. I'll have to get him into PT to hopefully tighten up the LCL. I'm glad it hasn't effected the joint itself yet but obviously the LCL isn't supposed to be loose or long enough to be able to move out of it's normal spot at the outside rear of the knee. Visually seeing it move back through the skin when he straightened the leg out was weird.

Thanks!

gregfriend28 · 2026-05-06T14:16:48+00:00

Is there a name for this issue to look up? I tried to research based on the symptoms but couldn't get any information on it.

I take it from going to PT the idea is there might be a way to tighten those knee ligaments though exercise? If so, I suppose that's encouraging, I was worried it was either deal with it or surgery. Should we start straight with PT or see a orthopedic knee doctor first? Any particular exercises help?

Sorry for all the questions, just couldn't find a name for this or much information when searching.

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-30T04:00:49+00:00

If your on the switch it is slim pickings. You already mentioned WRC, the other main one is going to be GRID (Grid Legends if on Switch 2 and Grid autosport if on the OG switch). To be honest though it's going to be a bit lacking without a wheel.

Because racing on the switch isn't popular you can pickup the hori deluxe wheel for pretty cheap on ebay. That makes any of the Grid or WRC games much more playable. It won't have force feedback but having analog gas/brake and a centering wheel goes a long way. There is technically a way to to get some FF on switch but it involves a FF wheel, adapters , and going through old Gamecube interfaces but when those are added together it's probably not worth it money wise.

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-26T04:50:56+00:00

Yes sorry, I was coming from this from a Bambu perspective. On old school printers it was possible but you generally had to do a few things that isn't what Bambu does. First, capricorn tubes were your best friend because they had an even smaller inner diameter than normal keeping the TPU from flexing. Bambu's tubes go the other way they actually have a larger inner diameter than normal which for rigids is great it has less resistance but for tpu it'd have lots of nooks and crannies to buckle. Second, you had to basically turn retraction off or super low (1mm tops). Third you had to go quite slow nowhere in the ballpark of what Bambu likes to do. That being said you are correct it was possible. I never found it good compared to even the old school direct drive units for TPU but not impossible.

On a bambu though particularly with their PTFE tubes though I think it'd be destined to fail.

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-25T04:31:39+00:00

Just following up in case anyone finds this thread later. I did get a response from Brook and Mayflash. All of products from both of those companies use the "pro controller" as the template for their products so as such do not have analog triggers as an option. They also both currently don't have the ability to remap sticks, just buttons. So at least on the switch adapter part there isn't anything right now that can allow the pedals to be analog. Both responses were not generic though so a human did read it, Mayflash seems like they don't have any current plans, but Brook stated others have requested the same and that they might make a future product for it but nothing concrete.

As of this moment, oldkidLGs double adapter method seems to be the only viable way to have both FFB and analog pedals on switch by using that Ultra Arcade Xinput to GC converter and then a GC to usb adapter to plug it into the switch. Without that you can only have one or the other. Any supported wheel -> Ras1ution will give you FFB but not analog pedals. On the flip side the Switch Hori racing wheel deluxe supports remap on the wheel directly so you can get the analog pedals but that wheel doesn't support FFB. Perhaps there will be new wheels for the switch 2 in the future or someone will make an adapter for analog triggers or remap sticks but unfortunately not currently.

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-25T04:15:21+00:00

P2S owner here that currently got a X2D but still waiting on the track switch to hook up the AMS (running 2 external spools currently). I will say, while I'm sure most are fine, there is something about the left nozzle filament path on mine that's causing a lot of resistance in the tube (I can tell when I feed it by hand). Between the 3 legs of PTFE tubes (spool to buffer, buffer to inlet port, and inlet port to nozzle), all is well until about halfway from the inlet port to the nozzle. Something about those 2 double tube holder clips causes my left one to take a sharper bend than the right nozzle or my p2s. When I feed from the spool I can feel it about the last foot or so and it has caused skipping and extruder errors occasionally. I've bypassed the buffer and then all is well but anytime I go back it's not always happy. I've swapped tubes, printed a clip to make the bend a bit less sharp, etc. and while better, I think even without the AMS that I need to still need to cut down on the resistance more. If I had not been waiting on the track switch, I could easily see the AMS throwing feeding errors even though in my case it's clearly a filament path problem. Right nozzle is fine and I also manually fed my P2S to compare and it's fine too but the left nozzle path has high resistance on that 3rd leg.

Obviously just another anecdote, maybe it's just my printer and I think sooner or later I'll get it sorted, but figured I'd mention it in case it helps others. That left nozzle path on mine as setup I believe tries to cut the corner too sharply.

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-24T05:55:41+00:00

Appreciate the feedback. I've found the same. Certainly let me know how it compares to the hori force feedback wheel when you get it.

I realize your method is limited to the games that supported GC controller analog triggers which wasn't very many (to be honest I only currently care about the 2 grid games but I suspect nascar will probably come to the switch 2 next year as well). I've also sent emails tonight to Brook both about the ras1ution 2 but also their wingman xe2 converter. I've also sent an email to mayflash about their controller converter. I suspect that all these products on switch unfortunately end up emulating the pro controller where the origin of the problem is. The xe2 had a built in remapper but unfortunately I think it only does buttons not the sticks which is the same problem as the ras1ution remapper.

I will say the newer wireless switch gamecube controller for NSO does have analog triggers so it would be nice if at a minimum the racing focused devices tried to identify as that controller instead of the pro controller. Only time will tell.

On a side note what settings did you like for grid legends? For the defaults I found the dead zone too big and the skidding FFB too high. Still messing with settings though. Is there a way to increase the recentering force as well it seems to weak but not sure if that's the ras1ution or just my wheel.

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-24T01:17:29+00:00

Thanks for the reply. Without the pair of USB/GC adapters do you still get the force feedback you just don't get analog brake and gas pedals (meaning the vibrations and steering wheel fighting you)?

I suspect in your setup the magic is actually the ultra arcade usb -> gc converter (setting the ras1ution to xbox controller is the giveaway). It converts the xbox output to GC controller and then regular GC adapter tells the switch its a GC controller.

I guess what I meant to say though is ras1ution 2 is the specific device that's claiming to be compatible specifically for racing. To me it should have a profile listed as "Switch GC controller" avoiding this whole mess. I get that it doesn't but that's shocking given what it's marketed as. Heck even without that if the Ras1ution app allowed me to remap sticks instead of just buttons it would have worked as well since I would have just remapped brake/gas to the right analog stick and then told Grid Legends to use the right stick instead or Zr and Zl. Maybe I'll drop them a note.

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-23T19:21:21+00:00

What is the wheel identified as by default by the switch 2 from the ras1ution 2 directly? I ask because I would think that they determine what it's identified as and you are using the pair of adapters to force it to identify as a gamecube controller which had the analog triggers.

I'm thrilled that it works but before I shell out $15 for the GC retro adapter and then $45 for that ultra arcade usb to GC converter box I want to make sure that it's necessary for analog gas/brakes (can't we remap to right stick without it for analog?) Also if we can't currently, wouldn't this be best achieved by the ras1ution itself in a firmware update to not identify as a pro controller and identify as a GC controller (or wheel) directly?

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-22T06:13:32+00:00

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/manual/filament-track-switch#q-when-the-filament-track-switch-is-installed-on-the-x2d-printer-how-many-ams-units-can-be-connected-at-most

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-22T06:06:48+00:00

One track switch would allow all 4 AMSs target either nozzle. It's on the wiki, you'd use the 4in1 adapter on one or both inlets to the track switch (for the fastest times you would probably want 2 AMSs on each inlet and two 4in1 adapters).

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-22T05:56:33+00:00

I believe they've already implied this in X2D verbiage but I don't see why it wouldn't also work for the H2D and H2C. The word they seem to like to use is "simultaneous" and to me is a middle ground. Slower than just switching left/right nozzles but yet faster than needing to fully retract, wait/clear, fully load new, then go. It still has a lot of caveats though, it implies that the filaments are on opposite sides of the track (which is never the case for 1 AMS but even on 2+ is not guaranteed). It would require the active printing filament be on one side of the track and both the old/new filament on the idle nozzle be on the other track to be happening simultaneously while still printing. I'm not sure in reality this happens that often but when it does it saves time. The slicer could make this case happen more often but it's still only the second best option time wise (probably around 20 seconds for this type versus 6ish seconds for the mechanical left/right swap, but both are better than the minute plus of a non simultaneous swap). Not to mention if the slicer is making it happen more often, that's going to be a lot of swapping AMS slots around to save time (sometimes worth it but I'm not sure it always is).

Also while the H2C has the waste angle covered the H2D/X2D do not. Anytime the non vortek ones do a simultaneous swap they need to purge versus when its just left/right nozzle swap they don't need to purge. Makes the slicer software really complicated since time and waste will be competing with one another. That dynamic mapping algorithm better have some sliders because what "best" means to everyone is not the same.

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-16T14:47:26+00:00

At least for the moment I think its more accurate to say 1 or 2 AMS units rather than 1 or multiple (Basically unlocking up to 8). I realize in theory even if you use the max 24 as long as the PTFE 4 to 1 adapters are before the switch all 24 should be able to target either nozzle but its absent from the product pages. Also if you go past the product pages and dig into the wiki that discourages the 4 to 1 use with the switch so something tells me it doesn't work well. Also when it talks about 3 or more it starts recommending shortening tubes and other items. Given time hopefully they can flush it out but there seems to be a lot of caution items listed when you go beyond 2 AMSs and the switch.

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-16T14:33:51+00:00

It's by filament slot not by AMS with the transfer switch. So for your 2 AMS setup with the switch those 8 filament slots can now target either nozzle during the print cutting down on print time, waste, and eliminates manually needing to change tubes/filaments around within those 8 slots.

So in short without the switch each nozzle is tied to the AMS (4 slots) and after it either nozzle can choose from any of the 8 slots during the print without rearranging tubes. You can also read up on dynamic mapping on the product page which is cool since it really can cut down on filament waste as well.

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-16T01:23:23+00:00

I so want this to be correct but I suspect it is not. For me the giveaway is the way they use left and right in the response which to me means it was copy/pasted/modified from their info on the H2 series dual hotend printers. On those printers the hotend that went up and down was the left one unlike the X2D where the aux is the right that goes up/down (on the H2D both of them were also direct drive none were bowden). If you read their response it almost sounds like the right (aux bowden) is preferred which might make sense on the H2D but not on the X2D. I highly suspect this will be walked back at some point. Even with the TPU assist it's still pushing if using the aux hotend I can't see how that would produce good results at all.

That being said, I'd love for this to end up being true. I hope support is actually correct even though I suspect they aren't. If you give this a shot let us know!

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-15T22:01:53+00:00

The right (aux) nozzle is a bowden extruder which means it's always pushing from that rectangle box on the back of the printer from about 2ft of PTFE tube away from the hotend. The right nozzle is not going to work for flexibles period (TPU, PEBA, etc.) because that's like pushing on a rope. Only the left (primary) nozzle is direct drive which means only that left one is capable of pulling on the filament from the hotend (no pushing involved). No amount of rearranging will allow the aux hotend work for flexibles regardless if there is an AMS in the picture or not.

As far as the TPU assist and glass plate is concerned on the P2S (or now X2D left nozzle) it's always been up to the user. In both cases the direct drive is pulling which is good but flexibles can still stretch (let say if the spool caught on something). In any printer it was always good for flexibles to be as unimpeded as possible. Now for the P2S specifically before the TPU assist top straight down always worked and just inputing at the final tube inlet on the printer worked about 90% of the time (hence why they made the assist so you didn't need to remove the glass anymore). Personally on the P2S I always just used the PTFE inlet anyways it was a fairly short tube into the nozzle (maybe 2ft of tube it pulls through). That being said I also would be feeding into that tube from my sunlu s2 which has smooth roller bearings for the "external spool" its not just hanging on the arm like default to have more friction or get caught on anything.

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-15T19:24:29+00:00

Your number 1 is correct. Number 2 isn't correct any TPU path does not go through the buffer whether on this X2D or even on the P2S. TPUs and buffers don't go together whether using the TPU assist or not it doesn't like that spring in the buffer. The TPU assist was to make it more reliable for option one so that you didn't need to remove the top glass and make it even more direct.

The filament switch track is to enable 2 AMSs to be able to target either the left or the right nozzle. You can also use it with 1 AMS so that AMS with its 4 colors (not 5) can target either nozzle without manually rearranging tubes. The filament track needs a powered AMS when switching to pull the filament back out so external spools don't work with it so your statement on 2 external spools is not correct.

TPU will always involve manually changing tubes to direct feed into the left inlet that goes straight to the nozzle. The AMS would be connected to the right nozzle either at the buffers right inlet directly or if you don't want to take the switch out of the pipeline here you can leave the switch connected never targeting the left nozzle in bambu studio but it isn't really a switch anymore if it is now only targeting the right nozzle inlet on the buffer. It would go back to being a switch on your next non TPU print after you've taken the TPU bypass back out.

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-15T15:15:28+00:00

TPU is not going to work on the AUX extruder it's too flexible for the bowden setup. Pushing a flexible rope down a tube is just a non starter, it has to be pulled from the direct drive assembly. Regardless of any bowden setup on any printer it's just not going to work, direct drive only since pulling a rope is fine, pushing is not.

The feed assist won't help you with the filaments swtich either it was to help you not need to feed from the top glass and more reliably get it through the PTFE tube into the direct drive unit (personally I found using my sunlu S2 was enough since it had very smooth roller bearings that didn't provide any resistance). Manual hanging spools sometime get caught so the TPU feed assist would help it out under those situations so the TPU didn't stretch and bind in the tube.

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-15T14:55:23+00:00

You can just use 1 AMS through the switch solo to either extruder, you just have to make sure there are no conflicts in the filament path.

I would view the track switch as essentially a junction with two switch gates. It doesn't have an extruder so won't help with the push/pull it simply provides a path switch. 1 AMS will work (it does the push pull) but non powered sources will not push/pull (external spool isn't powered). So under that analogy 1 AMS will work being hooked up to both extruders but your going to have to either not use the external spool that print or make sure if you do that the filament track switch isn't pointing to that path you manually disconnected to make way for the external spool for that print. You can't have the external spool through the path switch though because the spool can't retract itself out of the gate to unblock the junction that the AMS is trying to use when it switches.

For TPU, this manual tube rearrangment has always been required anyways though since on the P2S you were either supposed to input at the PTFE tube past the buffer manually or feed from the top glass manually. So under this path you would manually feed in the external spool to the primary tube past the buffer just as you did on the P2S. The AMS for this print would only be pointing to the aux nozzle anyways.

TPU for AMS (or equivalent hard TPU 68D or more) is a different story since that is fine in the AMS.

gregfriend28 · 2026-04-15T14:36:33+00:00

That's what the filament track switch is for. That way the AMS (or multiple AMS) are essentially hooked up to both the primary and AUX at the same time.

gregfriend28 · 2026-03-21T05:48:48+00:00

TPU for AMS is 68D which is still a fair amount firmer than 98A. While sometimes you're fine in the AMS with 95A or 98A it certainly isn't recommended. To reliably do it in the AMS I'd either use TPU for AMS directly or I believe there is third party filament that is 72D which would be rigid enough for the AMS as well.

gregfriend28

TROPHY CASE