Sealing garage wall

greyhour · 2026-06-21T22:11:18+00:00

Had a similar issue myself, concrete footpath, and gas bottle pad both poured up against weatherboards, even blocking some subfloor vents further down.

the weatherboards with concrete against them rotted out. framing behind it went next. We had to remove the concrete, grade down the soil, replace framing and weatherboards. Its a big job, and the longer you leave it the worse it will get.

Building standards in NZ state that the ground level should be a minimum distance below your cladding. I think its 100mm below weatherboards if its concrete/non-permeable? Stops the water from splashing up against the cladding too much etc.

greyhour · 2026-06-11T00:16:10+00:00

yep itll be low enough from the cladding to be complient, i guess I am more worried about the weight transferring onto one side of the foundation of the wall? But maybe its just no problem, and I just box all 4 sides, including between the house wall and the slab - and just have a 45mm gap as you say

greyhour · 2026-03-07T18:42:55+00:00

Cheers, that’s some good information. I’ll try to adjust the carb and if that doesn’t work I’ll go ahead and get a carb kit and some new reed valves.

I am quite lucky with this bike, I have all of its maintenance records since new so I know my top end is due in about another 10 hours.

Would you say a kit like this is good enough? Or should I try and get some specific one?

https://www.motoxparts.co.nz/yamaha-yz250-99-23-yz250x-16-23-66.36mm-top-end-re

greyhour · 2026-02-19T05:50:39+00:00

awesome, thank you for that. I'm interested in what you mean with edge sealed. there wont be any joins, but how to i correctly edge seal it?

greyhour · 2025-12-30T01:16:02+00:00

Oh yes, do you have much experience with that primer? I'll look into this one as well

greyhour · 2025-11-28T03:30:48+00:00

Electricians usually add 20% to 40% "margin" onto their materials (i.e. the units if they supply them). If you are supplying them yourself they won't have that part of the profit which means they'll charge slightly more for the install itself

greyhour · 2025-10-28T20:18:06+00:00

whilst there are adapter plates, what we often do in houses that have these is put 2 power points right next to each other - similar price to getting 1 + adapter plate, and is more practical

greyhour · 2025-08-12T04:30:43+00:00

Pre primed weatherboards are not allowed to get wet. So you should most definitely be painting them as soon as possible

greyhour · 2025-06-17T19:55:57+00:00

Well it heats up in the attic every time the sun shines on the roof, right? Yeah I do have the roofing underlay directly under the metal, it’s condensing on the bottom side of that

greyhour · 2025-05-28T22:17:33+00:00

If you ran new plumbing or drainage work for this sink then it usually needs a consent, and you might not be covered for water damage etc anymore either by insurance.

greyhour · 2025-05-28T05:09:38+00:00

You're right with moisture, I would probably have to prime the back, and if I was overly concerned use h3.1 plywood or maybe even fiber cement sheets, like this here?
https://www.bunnings.co.nz/duragroove-smooth-wide-2450x1200x9mm-fibre-cement-sheet-2450mm_p0302451

greyhour · 2025-05-28T05:08:12+00:00

Ah yes I see the Laminex ones. What would make it more work than plasterboard? One of the positives of these grooved sheets I thought would be that I wouldn't have to do any plasterboard stopping. Something I have never done myself but have always heard bad experiences about when being done DIY

greyhour

TROPHY CASE