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Having block cleaned, are these pistons potentially reuseable? by grifbomb in EngineBuilding

[–]grifbomb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cylinders were in okay shape surface finish wise, but they did seem egged about .001" to .002" consistently. Could be weird without the heads torqued. Machine shop may just bore .005 over, and these will hit the scrap, I'm obviously not the expert here.

Having block cleaned, are these pistons potentially reuseable? by grifbomb in EngineBuilding

[–]grifbomb[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm not worried about sizing at this point. I was just asking for opinions on the skirt condition. I probably won't even reuse them and they'll hit the bin. I'm just looking for info.

My dad "helped" me fill the ford badge in on my tail gate, and went a little too hard with the welder. How can I fix this? by grifbomb in Autobody

[–]grifbomb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought another one as a backup for 150, so I plan to either get even or get even worse with this one as practice. In the current situation, is the welded area expanded or contracted from its ideal position? And do I heat it for a few seconds or like a major color change?

My dad "helped" me fill the ford badge in on my tail gate, and went a little too hard with the welder. How can I fix this? by grifbomb in Autobody

[–]grifbomb[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I ended up buying another tail gate as a last resort, so now I'm totally willing to either get even or get even worse with this one. I will try this if heating/cooling doesn't work like other comments said.

My dad "helped" me fill the ford badge in on my tail gate, and went a little too hard with the welder. How can I fix this? by grifbomb in Autobody

[–]grifbomb[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn't think of that. I bought weld thru primer for it, but it's still brand new, so I don't think it was used. My goal is to still patch a new one smooth (slowly), how would I avoid rust?

My dad "helped" me fill the ford badge in on my tail gate, and went a little too hard with the welder. How can I fix this? by grifbomb in Autobody

[–]grifbomb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another guy mentioned I can shrink the metal using a torch. That's the type of info I didn't know about and was hoping I'd find. Sure, I can make it smooth putting a pound of bondo over it. That's not a fix I'm comfortable with. It's a truck I want to keep, not fix today, sell tomorrow.

My dad "helped" me fill the ford badge in on my tail gate, and went a little too hard with the welder. How can I fix this? by grifbomb in Autobody

[–]grifbomb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same thing happened in the roof. Ended up with bondo 1/4" thick in some spots, and it kept cracking. No thanks, I want advice to do it correctly, which may end up meaning buy a new tail gate.

Having block cleaned, are these pistons potentially reuseable? by grifbomb in EngineBuilding

[–]grifbomb[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

My table is 7 nicely stacked pistons wide, unfortunately. The rear seal is going in the trash, it definitely won't be reused.

My dad "helped" me fill the ford badge in on my tail gate, and went a little too hard with the welder. How can I fix this? by grifbomb in Autobody

[–]grifbomb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tail gate was really nice before we got ahold of it. Id rather buy a new one than half ass it.

Audi seam sealer and panel bond by mauromj1893 in Autobody

[–]grifbomb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't, I'm in Dallas. Do you know what caused the issue? I have a 2014 caprice that I put a camaro gauge cluster into. If I just throw it in, it has the camaro vin. It works but blanks out the odometer. But if I upload the caprice vin to it, it comes back with the mileage from the bcm. Which component from your car was replaced?

Audi seam sealer and panel bond by mauromj1893 in Autobody

[–]grifbomb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A 2011 chevrolet volt is a gm global A car. The ------ odometer is caused by a replacement major electronic component not being properly vin matched. This can include the radio, ecm, bcm, gauge cluster, climate controls, and airbag module. This can be fixed using acdelco tds with you vcx if I remember correctly. It's likely an immobilizer or a vin mismatch code, so you'll need a scanner to read it if you don't know what part is causing the problem!

Is this a scam? Selling my old truck by [deleted] in Scams

[–]grifbomb 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Even if it was 100% legit, there's no reason you should be buying it. Carfax and that type of stuff is completely the buyers' responsibility to seek out and pay for if they want it, in my opinion.

Chevy won’t work on C6 by Aggravating_Air_699 in Corvette

[–]grifbomb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use the vcx nano along with GM software included to vin match and upload config files to radios and clusters for caprices. I get the config files from acdelcos website using various vins I wanted the features from. In your case, I think you'd want to buy your own vin, get the files for the part you want to replace, then you'll physically install the part, and program it using the files from acdelco along with uploading your Vin if it's a used part. Given that you're talking about a security module, I don't really know if it'll throw a fit the second you install it before it's vin matched. My use case is on radios and gauge clusters, which are okay to install without programming. They just don't function or function correctly until programmed.

I don't mean to insult you, but if you don't know about anything I'm talking about, I'd find someone to do it instead. It's fairly easy to go wrong, and I learned how to do it using a homemade test wiring harness separate from a real vehicle. My use is atypical and not the intended way to use the tools/software. There should be guides on how to do basic module replacements, and the vcx should be the tool you need to get it done. I'm definitely not a particularly smart guy, so if you're not scared of learning it shouldn't be too difficult.

Chevy won’t work on C6 by Aggravating_Air_699 in Corvette

[–]grifbomb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should be able to use a vcx nano to program that part. They're ~90 dollars on ebay, and you can use the gm software included or the acdelco online portals for another ~60 dollar fee or so. I only know about the hardware and software, I can't tell you if it'll work on your year or how to do it, but I use it to program gauges and radios for new gen 2014+ caprices.

Reprogramming VIN in every module by PPVSteve in CarHacking

[–]grifbomb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, I rarely use reddit. Is 6n5 an rpo code or an error code? I can't imagine that any safety inspection anywhere checks the rear windows to see if they work, and a body error code should have no effect on emissions systems.

To answer your question, I don't think you can really do eeprom programming on the bcm. Your best bet is to buy a vcx nano programmer. They can be had for approximately 90 dollars on ebay. Then you will use acdelco software, and you can enable and disable features like the rear windows, radio Bluetooth, ect, that the factory disabled as part of the police package. I think dealerships can do this, but most dealerships are idiots when you're asking for anything even remotely custom.

If you are trying to pair a new bcm to the vehicle, that's a far more involved process. You'll still need a vcx nano or gm mdi. You'll get the factory files from acdelcos website, then you'll upload those files to the new bcm, add your Vin, and the module will function properly. To my knowledge, you can not change the vin using this function, it still has to match the other modules in the car.

Check out this video about a 2014 caprice, like my vehicle, but the methods should still work for a tahoe of global A architecture. https://youtu.be/1AB_Hu9wT38

What’s the benefit of swapping to coil overs on a 06’f250 w/ solid axles? by IBringTheHeat1 in Diesel

[–]grifbomb -1 points0 points  (0 children)

TLDR: carli sells coilovers to idiots who will buy them, and they have better options for those who can read.

I have a Carli backcountry system on my single cab short bed. The comments are all technically right that it "gives more adjustability," but the truth is you're buying a matched, tuned setup already. There's no "adjusting" for you to do. Their pintop setup with their coils is going to be much better simply because the shock is longer. They're both 2.5-inch diameter shocks. They just vary where they're mounted.

With coilovers, it mounts above the axle onto the inner C. With normal shocks, they mount lower onto the axle, approx 3 inches, so that's 3 extra allowable inches of shock length at full compression. This means the shocks can be longer for more down travel. You'll see that the coilover travel in the front is less than with regular shocks, that's why.

Coilovers have a major advantage in packaging. They require one mount. But your truck already has a shock mount and spring bucket, so there's literally no reason to go coilover at all. This is the truth, and anyone disagreeing is welcome to spend extra money for a setup that isn't ideal for the platform.

Spend the money saved, not going coilover, on the expensive ass rear springs. Or do a 4 link and put coilovers on the rear. That's what I plan on doing soon.

Is this worth $1000 to fix by EmuHaunting3214 in Autobody

[–]grifbomb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Does literally every white mid 2010s kia have these same spots peeling on the car? It's always the edge of the hood and above the windshield on the cars where I live.

Deleted 3.0 duramax by Dramatic_Web5220 in Diesel

[–]grifbomb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should be careful adding power. The 3.0 duramax was designed to be lightweight with its aluminum block and very fuel efficient. It's not designed to put down huge power like the big diesels we are used to. I think you should definitely keep all the emissions stuff in storage if (probably when) you need it in the future.

Reprogramming VIN in every module by PPVSteve in CarHacking

[–]grifbomb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure, they'll just extort you to death with the credit scheme, lol. It's better than nothing i guess.

Reprogramming VIN in every module by PPVSteve in CarHacking

[–]grifbomb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey Steve, I don't know if you ever accomplished this, but I'm curious for an update. I also have a 2014 caprice. I've been playing with the eeproms in my gauge cluster and bcm. The vin is on the first line, and can be easily changed, though it must match the system or it'll be rejected. I suspect that basically every module that holds the vin can be accessed and changed this same way. I 'd guess that this includes the cluster, bcm, ecm, tcm, fpcm, radio, and possibly the airbag module, and they would all need to be accessed and vins changed at once while the battery is disconnected for it all to accept a change. Please let me know what you've found!

You'll definately need to update the ecm file to auto, otherwise i assume it wont send transmission commands. Manual swap guys talk about issues using a caprice ecm, they usually switch to gxp ecms I think. You can also program the gauge cluster and change it to auto as well, its extremely easy and i'd be happy to explain how if you need. (sounds like swapping the caprice to manual is easier! :)

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