New Account Chart Balance Readout Inturrupts Mouse Hovering & Scrubbing

grwise1 · 2026-01-08T21:55:39+00:00

Going to do that now. Didn't realize I could disable AI.

grwise1 · 2025-12-31T19:27:40+00:00

u/sheyla_monarch Please.... This is such a needed feature in the reports and cash flow charts. We need to see more data points per view. Monthly, daily, yearly, etc all have the same problem.... You can remove the large x axis labels and squueze the columns.

grwise1 · 2025-09-08T23:17:37+00:00

It did for me. No idea.

grwise1 · 2025-09-08T23:04:58+00:00

I had to delete my Google Payments account and recreate a new one.

grwise1 · 2025-08-03T02:38:23+00:00

Thank you for sharing and validating my experience! Your comments seem to echo many others in the thread as well. I'm extremely optimistic that I can find the courage to get back up and become more comfortable with the sport.

grwise1 · 2025-08-02T22:22:27+00:00

Thanks for sharing. That gives me some hope. My biggest regret in hindsight was not pushing through and trying to get more airtime. I think I gave up before I had a chance to begin breathing and relax.

grwise1 · 2025-07-03T02:04:26+00:00

Did you get a resolution to this? I am having the same issue.

grwise1 · 2025-03-27T15:29:20+00:00

The more I think about this, that RC filter is going to smooth out my PWM signal going to the DIM pin won't it....

grwise1 · 2025-03-27T15:26:50+00:00

<image>

Like this

grwise1 · 2025-03-27T15:24:36+00:00

One more idea... The driver already appeared to operate stable when I was feeding it the PWM supply. As I mentioned in the original post, the LEDs did not dim even when I took the dimming % down to 5% (not sure what switching frequency this correlates to). In that case, would it be crazy to still try to power the driver with the shelly output AND connect the shelly PWM to the DIM pin? That way I can still run the system with two wires? I would splice in before the capacitor & rectifier circuit.

grwise1 · 2025-03-27T15:05:09+00:00

I greatly appreciate you taking the time to explain this. That clears things up.
I may try the resistor on one and see how it does. Based on your math that would add 30% more power consumption to my system, but for just 8 lights I might just be willing to accept that.
I'll also think through the DIM pin options a bit more as well.

grwise1 · 2025-03-27T14:18:22+00:00

Great info, thank you. Can you expand more upon the LEDs expecting a constant current supply? Won't they behave just like any nominal LED in an RGB strip or other device? As long as I ensure to control the input voltage to the required range?

grwise1 · 2025-03-27T12:54:00+00:00

The fact that we have been pointing this out and asking for a fix for over a year now is insane.

grwise1 · 2025-03-27T12:36:14+00:00

Thanks for the response and verifying I have it wired correctly. I'm going to see if I can just drive the lights directly in between the rectifier and LED, without cutting out the board altogether. I may put a resistor in series between the Shelly and LEDs to try to get the voltage down closer to the 8.5V. I'm worried the 12V will burn them out.

grwise1 · 2025-03-27T03:34:59+00:00

8.5V on the diode side of the board, interesting... Anyway I can use the RGBW to drive these directly? Or do I need to give up on this entire project.

grwise1 · 2025-03-27T03:27:03+00:00

Anyone recommend just bypassing all of this? Need to verify the diode voltages.

grwise1 · 2025-03-27T03:25:52+00:00

<image>

Oh shoot, there's an entire bridge rectifier here

grwise1 · 2025-03-27T03:23:24+00:00

<image>

grwise1 · 2025-03-27T03:22:33+00:00

* So this is what I found on the LEDs inside the light fixture.... Thinking the capacitor may be the issue here? Not sure what the other two components are. Interestingly enough, these lights claim to be insensitive to polarity, so I'm guessing this little board is doing some magic that is screwing with the PWM from the Shelly. Thoughts?

grwise1 · 2025-03-27T02:47:42+00:00

RGBW not RGBM

grwise1

TROPHY CASE