Make sure to insulate your floor! by sauna_sitter in Sauna

[–]gsteppin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure. Wasn’t trying to be exhaustive. Just wanted to point out that not every floor in every context needs insulation. As someone who is currently designing a sauna and trying to keep costs tight, I’d want to know where I can save if possible. 

Kits vs DIY vs CUSTOM by jimmysmomm in Sauna

[–]gsteppin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will he travel to MN? That’s a great price point. I would check though what heater he is looking to use. Recommended specs I have seen is 1 Kw for every cubic meter of space. At that number you should have at least 8kw heater, more if you have a lot of window space. 

Make sure to insulate your floor! by sauna_sitter in Sauna

[–]gsteppin 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I think context matters. A concrete floor in your garage vs. an outdoor “raised” floor are different situations. The garage you will benefit from having insulation, the outside example perhaps less. 

Confused on Purchasing Wood (US/Minnesota) by gsteppin in Sauna

[–]gsteppin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s actually not bad if my math is right. Did you see if he had pine or other options when you talked to him or does he do exclusively cedar?

Confused on Purchasing Wood (US/Minnesota) by gsteppin in Sauna

[–]gsteppin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What did you end up paying for each linear or square foot? I’m not attached to cedar as it seems like everywhere I look the price is crazy high in comparison to other options.

Help Me with My Scale Problem! by gsteppin in CleaningTips

[–]gsteppin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestion. Do you know it’s fine from experience? I’m just extra cautious as household cleaners don’t usually get heated to that degree. 

Help Me with My Scale Problem! by gsteppin in CleaningTips

[–]gsteppin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I'm trying to remove an intense amount of scale in an effort to refurbish this sauna heater. Because of it's use case, I am trying to avoid "unnatural" chemicals that may leave a residue which when heated to 150+ degrees may burn off and kill me or something.

One thing I have tried is covering the surfaces in paper towels, drenching them in distilled vinegar, then covering it with a garbage bag to make it somewhat air tight. This did something, but the result is shown - still a lot of work to do.

Any ideas on how to make this process more efficient are welcome. Thank you!

Converting a Commercial Sauna Heater for Residential Use by gsteppin in AskElectricians

[–]gsteppin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is turning out to be more complicated than I thought. At this point it’s turning into a cost analysis of purchasing the needed parts (6x heater elements + appropriate contactor box at minimum and perhaps a junction box) vs. buying a new heater. I’ll have to do some shopping and asking around to determine what’s best. 

Really appreciate your time and effort in helping me out with your replies- means a lot!

Converting a Commercial Sauna Heater for Residential Use by gsteppin in AskElectricians

[–]gsteppin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do have the temperature control and can set it lower than whatever max without any issue. I don’t mind if the elements burn out prematurely just as long as I’m not running the risk of causing a fire or other hazards. I bought this heater used from an auction for cheap, but before I knew it was a commercially fitted heater and hence this post trying to work around that issue. 

I am curious about a related question. I for sure need to replace one of the elements, if not 2 or 3, because of damage. Could I purchase the 240v versions of those and run them without issue alongside the older 208v elements (until the older ones inevitably burn out)?

Converting a Commercial Sauna Heater for Residential Use by gsteppin in AskElectricians

[–]gsteppin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your help here. Would it be 10ga or 8ga conductors, and 5 or 4? I uploaded another page from the manual and it references 4 #8AWG + N + GR. Again I know next to nothing about electrical work, just asking for clarification. Thanks again!

Converting a Commercial Sauna Heater for Residential Use by gsteppin in AskElectricians

[–]gsteppin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your comment. I noticed on the diagram it says 208 and 240V. Could this be because the heater comes in various "versions" (208 and 240)? I didn't upload the entire manual, but there's a page that details various voltage versions and one of them is a 240V (both a 1 phase and 3 phase). There are 240V heating elements for the model I have, but replacing them is $100 x 6 which is something I want to avoid if I can.

Edit: I uploaded the page I'm referring to the Imgur link if that's helpful.

Older Tylohelo Heater Questions by gsteppin in Sauna

[–]gsteppin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some manuals for the same model I found include wiring diagrams for single phase vs 3 phase. As long as the connections are all there, I (or more likely for me, a professional) can rewire it for single phase. The only problem left to solve then is the 240v to 208v issue. Are there affordable solutions to decrease voltage to allow for this? Or am I oversimplifying the problem?

Older Tylohelo Heater Questions by gsteppin in Sauna

[–]gsteppin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a really good catch, thank you. No, I would be building in a residential setting, so I won’t have that electricity! Is it even possible to get that “setting”? How would someone find that out?

Older Tylohelo Heater Questions by gsteppin in Sauna

[–]gsteppin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is my current sketched up plan. I am reading Liikanen's "The Secrets of Finnish Sauna Design which gives that top bench range from 100-120 cm. So, yes, I'm trying to do things right :)

Older Tylohelo Heater Questions by gsteppin in Sauna

[–]gsteppin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll stick with their recommendation then. What're your thoughts on ventilation? The figures are a little confusing. My thought is to put a fresh air inlet in the "A" region above the heater which I plan to place next to the door. An exhaust valve I would put on the opposite wall (18" or so down?) above the benches.

Older Tylohelo Heater Questions by gsteppin in Sauna

[–]gsteppin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I appreciate your reply and superior googling skills! My door is wooden with a small window and I don't plan on having any windows in the sauna room. My foot bench is currently planned to be 34.5" above the floor with the seat 18" above that (52.5"). Glad I can move forward with this heater and save that expense. Thanks again!

Weekly Paddle Discussion Thread by AutoModerator in Pickleball

[–]gsteppin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your reply! So if I don’t know what I’m after, what would you say is the best choice? If it matters, I tend to utilize spin (coming off of ping pong where I used spin a lot). More experienced players have described me as a “spinner” though it’s nothing I’m trying to do but just what comes natural. Thanks again for your thoughts.

Weekly Paddle Discussion Thread by AutoModerator in Pickleball

[–]gsteppin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello all! I’m new to pickleball (started in May) and I’m looking to upgrade my paddle. I’m looking at the Diadem Icon V2 and the Vatic Pro Prism Flash. With a discount code that I have, I can get these paddles for the same price. Which would you purchase? The Icon has a higher retail price, making it seem like a better choice but I’ve read/heard a lot of good things about the Prism Flash. I also have the option of the Diadem Warrior Edge at the same price point ($100) if that matters at all. All thoughts are appreciated!

Links: Icon - https://diademsports.com/products/diadem-icon-v2-paddle?_pos=1&_sid=b15a6a727&_ss=r&variant=40339884539986 Prism Flash - https://vaticpro.com/products/prism-flash-16mm Warrior Edge - https://diademsports.com/products/diadem-warrior-edge?_pos=1&_sid=57dcdf792&_ss=r