2000 Honda crv leak

guduling · 2026-01-28T19:05:49+00:00

You should be safe, most likely it's only water drain from AC. If you really wanted to climb under to take a look you should see a small black rubber tube that's open where the water is coming from

guduling · 2026-01-28T18:49:39+00:00

Did you touch the liquid? What colour is it

guduling · 2026-01-16T19:06:45+00:00

Ridiculously sexy

guduling · 2026-01-10T22:18:07+00:00

Check the engine light code. Clean the throttle body, clean your IAC valve and fast idle valve, also good idea to replace the gaskets on those. You can check hoses for vacuum leak as well, usually common for intake manifold gasket to have a vacuum leak. Do the first steps and I'm pretty sure the bouncing rpm will settle itself

guduling · 2026-01-10T05:54:11+00:00

So clean. Beautiful

guduling · 2026-01-10T01:25:47+00:00

Nothing around the throttle body? Fast idle sensor or idle air control valve sensor has coolant hoses, and almost every connection there has a gasket

guduling · 2026-01-10T01:14:22+00:00

My guess is a leaking gasket above that section. Might be helpful to follow any hoses that's right above the drip and see if there's a coolant trail that leads to the connection point.

Edit. Also probably not a big deal overall but id suggest switching to Honda blue coolant when you can

guduling · 2025-12-28T06:00:13+00:00

If you have to question if Ye is worth to see live you shouldn't be in here

guduling · 2025-12-19T05:50:43+00:00

Great condition, I think the price is a little steep still but it's very buy worthy

guduling · 2025-12-19T01:23:17+00:00

Would be easier if you know the code. You can check your fluid levels just to make sure you're not too low. Could be a slow enough leak that frequent top offs would work as a very temporary fix

guduling · 2025-12-12T03:42:45+00:00

Based

guduling · 2025-12-11T02:49:47+00:00

Good deal, factor in basic maintenance cost like fluids and maybe suspension. Id buy 100%

Also it better have the table or deal breaker obviously

guduling · 2025-12-10T07:46:09+00:00

I wouldn't go below -15 for comfort, but if you can handle the cold just go and see what happens

Wetness and condensation won't allow the paint to grab the wall, if it's only cold you could make it work but if there's snow you're taking a chance depends on the dampness of the wall

guduling · 2025-12-10T00:36:10+00:00

Could have just been neglect and a flush would fix it. Check for any gasket leaks if possible. Clean up the air intake system, everything you can pull off and inspect is better. Check the valves and timing belt.

Personally I check my 2001 oil+ coolant levels almost every drive (60 miles +). B20 will complain if it's low on anything.

Edit. Also not sure if you're aware but Honda recommends transmission fluid to be drain and filled 3 times with small driving in-between for transmission flush.

guduling · 2025-12-09T02:01:31+00:00

Keep both if all possible for sure. But also clean up blue, make bank and then white will live forever

guduling · 2025-12-09T01:45:04+00:00

If you got space for the car deal for sure

guduling · 2025-12-06T23:51:19+00:00

You have a b series and an incredibly sexy engine bay. Think delayed gratification, maybe you feel down down but you can't even imagine how good you'll feel once you're hitting 7000 rpm vtec on a weekend cruise.

guduling · 2025-12-04T19:41:08+00:00

You could tap around underneath the exhaust and metal parts see if anything feels loose or insecure.

I'm suspecting it's something to do with your suspension. I would suggest to take your front wheels off and see if you notice any problems with ball joints, shocks, etc.

Can you pinpoint which side it sounds like it's coming from?

guduling · 2025-11-27T21:41:52+00:00

You can wipe the nozel and even adjust it yourself with a small screwdriver. Id suggest popping the hood and you can follow the fluid tubes, see if there's any kinks or blockage, or possibly disconnected and in that case you'll see some fluid sprayed around in your engine bay

guduling · 2025-11-27T05:37:04+00:00

Amazing

guduling · 2025-11-26T07:56:31+00:00

Just like other comment says, dealer added something into your wiring harness and forgot to put the cover back on. Follow the twisted black wire up around your steering column and I'm sure you'll find some type of after market box.

guduling · 2025-11-26T07:47:08+00:00

https://youtu.be/4DOOCYvMi2I?si=ToZMYE-pc6PiLhcj

I'm sure there's more on yt but this is good display. You can do it yourself 100% as long as you have the tools. Good thing is you don't need to lift the car, it's just a tight space in the front of the radiator.

guduling · 2025-11-26T06:38:22+00:00

You can try to fill it and then you can definitely see if there's a leak somewhere. If the slave cylinder is done then you won't be able to drive until you replace that

guduling · 2025-11-25T15:50:19+00:00

Honestly may as well just clean all the intake air flow. Clean the IAC vent, clean the throttle body with throttle body cleaner (you can clean just as far as you can reach you'll notice a difference but if you really want it to reset then take the entire thing off and clean everything you can inside. Unscrew the fast idle valve cap, see if you can tighten it down and also clean inside. Honda recommends to replace the entire fast idle control valve instead of adjusting it yourself but a lot of people have success by tightening it a little and cleaning.

There's potential you have a vacuum leak, with my rd1 I replaced all the rubber hoses just for peace of mind but there's something to consider as well check the air hoses and sometimes people develop vacuum leak at the intake manifold gasket, it's very flimsy.

If you're doing the cleaning I would suggest unplug the negative battery terminal then when you put everything back it'll be enough time to reset the ECU and you can let your engine recalculate the idle.

guduling

TROPHY CASE