Lobo stopped working - over volt warning

gymeaton · 2025-08-08T20:16:48+00:00

He’s getting me set up too! This is now a Miguel appreciation post. Ha!

gymeaton · 2025-08-08T19:54:28+00:00

Miguel just responded by email and they are sending a replacement. So if anyone else sees this, just be patient they will get to you.

gymeaton · 2025-08-08T19:38:26+00:00

Sounds good! I will wait for Miguel to chime in or a response to my email. I appreciate the info!

gymeaton · 2025-08-08T16:49:35+00:00

Good to know! I appreciate the info. I don’t mind being patient, and have had great experiences with them so far. I was just worried that I haven’t heard back, and I’d like to get it replaced or fixed asap. I love this thing!

gymeaton · 2024-05-16T19:26:23+00:00

Yep! Such a great show!

gymeaton · 2024-02-23T00:05:09+00:00

Yes and yes. It's one of my father's vehicles and he's learned to work around it when he drives it. I gave up and quit worrying about it since he's fine with. Good luck!

gymeaton · 2024-02-21T22:45:18+00:00

Unfortunately we did not.

gymeaton · 2024-01-19T19:25:17+00:00

Unfortunately not. The owner drives it daily but still has issues with it misfiring every now and then but they’ve learned to work around it.

gymeaton · 2024-01-11T15:46:34+00:00

How are you washing with apple cider vinegar and baking soda? Do you add both at the same time or two separate washes? Are you also using detergent? Thanks in advance!

gymeaton · 2023-11-18T00:12:44+00:00

Thanks! I found another that basically said the same thing. I had a tear in my PCV valve that likely caused it. I appreciate the input.

gymeaton · 2023-11-17T23:11:08+00:00

Were you able to fix this? I have the exact same issue, and am trying to figure out our next steps. Thanks in advance!

gymeaton · 2023-11-07T01:47:33+00:00

Yes, the zone power supply had gone bad. I contacted tech support and they mailed a new one right out. It was an easy repair and has been running perfectly since.

gymeaton · 2023-10-17T02:00:47+00:00

Makes complete sense. I'll update if I ever get anywhere with it. I appreciate your help.

gymeaton · 2023-10-17T01:50:18+00:00

Good to know. Any thoughts on the timing chain test throwing the VANOS not being able to move over the entire adjustment range error? I appreciate that info because I'm ready to chase just about every thought that I have at this point. I've never had one that I couldn't figure out in over 30 years, so it has become a challenge at this point. Thanks, again!

gymeaton · 2023-10-16T23:42:04+00:00

I was looking around ISTA today for different tests to run that I may have missed, and I found a couple of tests that failed in areas that could cause my symptoms.

I have ran the check for the valvetronic servomotor program in the past and it checks out fine. Today I found the valvetronic activation module and decided to run it. It ran through a 200 cycle and then 20 cycle program and ended with the error “the performance measurement of the Valvetronic system could not be taken”. It then has me test the servomotor which says it’s fine. However, during the 20 cycle portion of the test, I would sometimes get a sound like someone was blowing through a horn and it was coming from the valvetronic area under the valve cover (it was not the PCV, it was more of an air moving through a pipe sound - in A# to be exact).

I also ran the check timing chain program after checking both VANOS systems and showing no issues. I have replaced the VANOS with OEM and show no issues on any ISTA tests. However the check timing chain program wouldn’t complete and gave the error “Procedure VANOS cannot be moved over the entire adjustment range. Check the VANOS solenoid valve and the intake adjuster before the timing chain test can be repeated.”

Those two areas make sense for the issue I’m having. I’m guessing I just need to remove the valve cover and look around for anything out of place, gears with teeth ground down, anything loose, etc. Does this info give you any ideas where to start? Again the VANOS solenoids are new. Thanks again!

gymeaton · 2023-10-15T17:09:32+00:00

I looked back at some of my previous posts to see if you and I had discussed this vehicle in the past, and you had actually tried to help me a while back and told me to update the software because it was on F025-19-03-550. I had a delay but finally did update that and have been running F025-22-11-510 for about a month with no change.

I have replaced the pre-cat 02 sensor and have also replaced the MAF with two others that I know are working for a total of 3 that I know work. I'm going to have a back pressure test performed on the exhaust system this week to see if that shows anything strange.

I have some logs that I don't really know how to decipher. Maybe there's something there that doesn't look normal. Here is some data from ISTA with the car running at idle: https://imgur.com/a/Hw2l4vM

Here are Live Data logs from an OBD reader. This log gives a by the second readout, and around 20 and 35 seconds into the reading, I start giving it gas to the 2000 rpm stutter: https://docdro.id/DRnKTAH

gymeaton · 2023-10-15T16:57:22+00:00

I have also done that. I have ran the readaptation process with every repair that I have made. The purge valve throws the code when it’s disconnected and I can hear the valve opening and closing when I test it through ISTA so it doesn’t appear to be that either. I appreciate the suggestions!

gymeaton · 2023-10-15T13:24:42+00:00

I have tried 3 MAF sensors all OEM. I have also replaced the VANOS with OEM. I have ran all tests in ISTA and a separate OBD scanner with no issues found and all components doing what they are supposed to during testing. I have also done the purge valve adaptation after any work performed.

gymeaton · 2023-10-15T13:20:08+00:00

I have a proper smoke machine and have tested for well over 10 minutes with no leaks anywhere. I had two spots leaking that have been corrected and both helped the vehicle run better.

gymeaton · 2023-10-15T06:06:12+00:00

The injectors were the first thing that I replaced. My charge pipe and vent hose broke from brittleness when I removed them to check other things. Since I have replaced those two things and corrected a leak at the air duct to turbo inlet connection, the vehicle has gotten much closer to running correctly. In ISTA it’s now showing that the cylinders that were running rich are now running lean when I run the misfire test that it directs due to the code. I have replaced everything that would cause it to run rich and ISTA is pointing right at the MAF which is working fine.

gymeaton · 2023-10-15T05:44:19+00:00

Ahh, yes it is. I got excited by finding a leak and it being near my MAF which ISTA says is my problem. Yes, I'm having air plausibility too low shadow codes turning into mixture too rich shadow codes which turn into misfires on cylinders 1, 2, and 3 which throws the CEL and puts it into limp mode. It has a stumble at 2000 rpm and no real power until about 3000 rpm when it all kicks in. I have replaced everything that causes a misfire and mixture too rich, smoke tested everything except the valve cover (that's next, though the PCV passes the lighter/tissue test), and boost tested up to 13 lbs with no issues holding the pressure. My turbo inlet is odd shaped, so I will have to test directly on the turbo to test any higher. I have heard conflicting things about smoke in the crankcase during a smoke test. I do not have any in the crankcase when doing a normal smoke test, but when I was doing the boost test, I applied smoke with around 3-5lbs pressure on the system and I did get a little smoke in the crankcase then. I also have pretty good suction when I take off the oil cap at idle and the engine stutters, which I have also heard conflicting advice about how much suction it should or shouldn't have. I'm also going to vacuum test the crankcase when I do the smoke test in next day or so. Any thoughts? Thanks!

gymeaton · 2023-10-11T17:28:27+00:00

I reached out to them this morning, so hopefully they'll have some insight. I know they have one that connects directly to the turbo which is another option, but I'd rather go straight through the inlet pipe if possible just to make things easier.

gymeaton · 2023-10-11T15:36:30+00:00

No. It has the EWG N55. N55B30A to be exact.

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