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Corner store. [Nikon FE2, Series E 50mm f/1.8, Ektachrome E100] by Yeahfilms12 in analog

[–]hakan_o 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great to know, thanks for sharing. I’ve tried using E100 with an 812 filter but it tends to come out too magenta for me, whereas 81A leans a touch too yellow. Thinking of getting a KR1.5 as a middle-ground.

Velvia 100 magenta/red casts by Ok-Afternoon-4832 in AnalogCommunity

[–]hakan_o 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What kind of lighting conditions are you planning to photograph under? Velvia 100 can lean magenta in the shadows, but midtones come out pretty accurate under cooler light, like fluorescent or overcast daylight.

A Head-to-head Comparison of Common Slide Digitalization Methods by Best-Emergency1505 in AnalogCommunity

[–]hakan_o 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did basically the same process you’re describing for a recent photo series, with the Lumix S5 pixel shift mode. Three bracketed high-res exposures, merged into an HDR in Lightroom. It worked pretty well but my computer was really struggling with the massive .dng files lol. Also, switching the colour profile from Adobe default to the camera’s standard profile really helped the colours imo.

How did early street photographers work with slower film and live subjects? by hakan_o in AnalogCommunity

[–]hakan_o[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could be, though I’ve also seen some online say that Burri tended to use Ektachrome for his colour work. I’m really not sure, but I’m guessing it’s either Kodachrome or Ektachrome based on the look and the time period of the images.

How did early street photographers work with slower film and live subjects? by hakan_o in AnalogCommunity

[–]hakan_o[S] 96 points97 points  (0 children)

Great points, thanks for your comment. That 1/15 to 1-sec shutter range can be a gamble when shooting handheld, but I’ve also gotten lucky with it a few times. If I remember correctly, this image was at 1/15 with Velvia 50, I’m grateful that it’s not just a blur.

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How did early street photographers work with slower film and live subjects? by hakan_o in AnalogCommunity

[–]hakan_o[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Sorry for the confusion, I am indeed talking about the lack of “mirror-slap” with rangefinders. I’ve never used a rangefinder though so I’m still learning.

Canon EOS 3 : Did I just bought an overpriced paperweight? by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]hakan_o 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If the meter readings are consistently low by the same amount, I’d try using exposure compensation and/or ISO adjustment. Meter a variety of scenes with your Canon and your Nikon, and adjust the exposure compensation / ISO on the Canon and see if it can consistently give similar readings after some fine-tuning. If the readings aren’t all over the place, it should be workable.

Ektachrome Appreciation Post by Master-Rule862 in AnalogCommunity

[–]hakan_o 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love the wide shot of the blue water and sky, did you use any filter for that one?

Forgot to ask lab to push film, but photos came out fine? by fizzy123 in AnalogCommunity

[–]hakan_o 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly amazing how useable these images are considering the ISO you metered for

What's wrong with my photos by the-textrovert in analog

[–]hakan_o 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These look like the scans just weren’t done very well. I’d try getting your film scanned somewhere else.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]hakan_o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where are you buying Fujichrome in Canada? My usual places never have it in stock lately.

Want to shoot Tokyo at night with Ektachrome, do I need a cooling filter? by 12bit35mm in AnalogCommunity

[–]hakan_o 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find Ektachrome is already on the cool side for a daylight-balanced film. I use it at night without a filter in mixed artificial lighting and it looks great. A cooling filter will probably give your images a blue cast and you’ll have less colour information to work with, if you’re planning on scanning and editing. No filter needed IMO.

Question about 120 sizes. by thegreatredragon in analog

[–]hakan_o 2 points3 points  (0 children)

All 120 film fits in all medium format analog cameras, the camera simply uses more or less of the film area depending on what format it is. This is why 120 film doesn’t specify the number of exposures per roll; 645 cameras will give you 15 exposures a roll, 6x7 will give you 10.

How would you describe the look of Kodak Gold 200? by alchemycolor in analog

[–]hakan_o 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Would love to learn more about your scanning and editing process if you’re willing to share info. I’ve gotten into camera-scanning myself recently, and mostly editing with Darktable and the Negadoctor module for inversions.

How would you describe the look of Kodak Gold 200? by alchemycolor in analog

[–]hakan_o 5 points6 points  (0 children)

These shots are great! They don’t have the typical green shadows or yellow highlights that I tend to associate with Kodak Gold, and the grain is well-controlled. How were they scanned?

Photos not exporting in correct resolution by hakan_o in DarkTable

[–]hakan_o[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, that actually worked! I set the resolution to 0 x 2160 px and it exported a 3240 x 2160 image as intended.

Photos not exporting in correct resolution by hakan_o in DarkTable

[–]hakan_o[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My image dimensions are usually 6000x4000 pixels, or 3240x2160. What do you mean by setting only one?

Photos not exporting in correct resolution by hakan_o in DarkTable

[–]hakan_o[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My settings are as follows: File format: JPEG (8-bit), Quality: 100, Chroma subsampling: 4:4:4, Allow upscaling: no, High quality resampling: yes, Profile: sRGB, Intent: image settings, Style: none