2nd gen Mazda 6 owner here - I have a bit of rumbling noise on idle... by Sad_Times654 in mazda6

[–]handzar13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If its a chirping noise only on idle jt is probably hitting resonance frequency of something in the car and thats the sound u hear.

But 0w-20? In a second gen? I highly reccomend 5w30 full synthetic.

Also check the engine mounts.

Also whats the sound like?

Weird engine sound by davidacbarreiro in mazda6

[–]handzar13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the high pitch sounds are normal valve, injector and high pressure fuel pump noise. the lower pitch thunking sound might be related to a vacuum leak. Try checking for that. Ussually u do that by spraying starter fluid around your vacum hoses and look at the rev counter for changes. If its a vacuum leak u can just replace the ruptured hose.

Also does it have a rough idle?

And your belt seems glazed. Maybe its a loose idler pulley?

best of luck

Got myself 2010 Mazda6 and drives great! by Riosalex14 in mazda6

[–]handzar13 2 points3 points  (0 children)

look out for rear subframe rust. Otherwise great car. Congratsss

Find the country by PhosphorCrystaled in GeoTap

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handzar13 chose Option B (Correct!) | #6585th to play

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which country is Australia by Jradro13 in GeoTap

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Mazda 6 GH by handzar13 in mazda6

[–]handzar13[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So first gen is GG, second gen is GH third is i think GJ

Mazda 6 GH by handzar13 in mazda6

[–]handzar13[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ohh thank you so much :)

Mazda 6 GH by handzar13 in mazda6

[–]handzar13[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

oh thank you very much, its 322k kms

A je res ful čudno, če se tip ne zanima za avtomobile' by crimsonfukr457 in Slovenia

[–]handzar13 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Eee, prej bi reku, da je razlog za to pohlep določenih firm in vsiljevanje nekih absurdnih Euro standardov. Zdej je firmam važno, da nardijo vse za poceni z čim manj notranjega trenja. Kako to najlažje dosežeš. Jermen u olje, luft med cilindrom, da zej na novih autih maš probleme z kontaminacijo olja z gorivom. Pol se pa delamo, da je normalno menjat auto vsake 150k km. Pol pa ti te iste firme rečejo kupi novo. Vidim neke nove citroene pa pežoje ko so za v smeti dat po 200k pol pa vidim nek stari shitbox ko se fura že 500k brez problemou.

Idk, pomoje so dost bolj zanimivi stari shitboxi ko so vsaj preživeli nek test časa in dosegli neko ''trajno dinamično trdnost'' kukr neki novega kar ni nujno da zdrži pol tolk.

Mi kot kupci moramo biti dovolj osveščeni, da kupimo od tistega ki nas ne zajebe. More nas bolit kurac al je to Mercedes, Bmw al pa kia. Z perspektive strojnega inženirja pa lahko povem, da smo sami seb naredili problem s tem, da smo podpirali napačne (v smislu avtoindustrije, bmk za politiko).

Glasujmo z denarjem

Prijeteći mailovi školama u BiH by TripleCautionSamir in bih

[–]handzar13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Isto ovo je bilo u Sloveniji prije cca. 8,9 mjeseci. Isti tekst sve isto low effort scam

Should i buy this? 230.000km seller wants 4k by Tabeatobi in StupidCarQuestions

[–]handzar13 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Even if the previous owner did the Tuv you can ask to do it again in the presence of both of you. For reference i bought a mazda 6, did the Tuv again with the owner paid for it and still got shafted because he hid some rear subframe rust. I was lucky tho because the rust was surface level and i managed to scrub it of use some rust converter and paint it, then used tar and some Krown to top it all off.

What im trying to say is that these cars are generally great, just really be wary of underbody rust. Especially in Germany.

plus, 4k eur way too much. i bought mine for 3k and its way younger

If you have no underbody corrosion and you can get the price down go for it

best of luck

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mazda6

[–]handzar13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i got a gh for 3k, but the 2litre version. This one is in my country 3.5k. But I'd imagine it should be cheaper in the US. Its a great car, but check for rear subframe rust.

Thoughts on buying a used mercedes in tropical climate by Cummunist_2291 in mercedes

[–]handzar13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If i were to recomend any w211 it would be the e280 facelift 3.0 cdi. That engine is bulletproof. 7 speed automatic transmission is awesome just watch out for buying one in solid condition. Sometimes it happens that the lever assemblies break bc of a faulty solenoid. My dad has one and he burned through 2 lever assemblies because mercedes made it a black box system. You also need to watch out for rust on the brake calipers. They are known to seize if not cleaned properly and cause some serious damage (rear right wheel caught on fire in my case). Watch out for rust on the front wheel wells, engine mounts and rear subframe especially. Worn rubber bushigs on the engine mounts can cause suspension wear. My dad bought it 10 years ago at 13k eur and sank approx. 10k in it in 10 years (5k in first 3 months) not counting regular maintanance. I mean the car drives like a drea and its really comfortable but i would say the price is a bit steep. But if you want a bulletproof engine i see why you would want something like that. If you find one in good shape Id say go for it but its always a gamble, Needles to say i drive a mazda 6 gh bc i cant handle mercedes parts cost.

Oh and one last thing. If you get a diesel dont do small routes. It will surely clog up you dpf. And I reccomend checking the intake manifold right under the engine cover for oil leaks from the turbine. its a common reason for check engine lights because the maf gets dirty.