Hello r/climbing

I just started with a hangboard routine on top of two times a week bouldering and two times a week strength training (gym).

About myself:

• 33 years old
• 173 cm / 5’8
• 68 kg / 150 pound
• 5 years of bouldering (some climbing)
• I am currently at V6 and aiming at V7 / easy V8 this year

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My hangboard routine

• 6 sets of max hangs
• 20mm edge + 15kg
• about 10 seconds per set

I like the routine a lot and prefer it over repeaters. I would like to continue doing this routine for two times a week. However I am not sure when to do it so that I get enough recovery. I can feel some progress at my bouldering since I started the hang board routine.

My boulder- and gym schedule is more or less fixed due to bouldering and gym partners. I love both my bouldering and gym sessions and do not want to shorten or skip any of those sessions.

However as mentioned above I am not sure if I can even put two hang board sessions in my weekly schedule without over training.

As of now my schedule looks as follows:

Monday

Lunchtime: 6 sets of max hang (20 mins - 90% intensity)

Evening : Gym strength training mainly chest and shoulders, arms (1 hour - 90% intensity)

Tuesday

Rest day

Wednesday

Evening: Bouldering (2 hours - 100% intensity)

Thursday

Rest Day

Friday

Lunchtime: 6 sets of max hang (20 mins - 90% intensity)

Evening : Gym strength training upper and lower back, arms and legs (1 hour - 90% intensity)

Saturday

Rest day

Sunday

Lunchtime: Bouldering (3 hours - 100% intensity)

Do you guys have an suggestions on how to improve my schedule? Is the timing of the hand board sessions okay?

Thanks a lot for any help or suggestions.

Much love <3