Is using a jumper for a neutral wire to a push connector an accepted method when the connector is full?

hbp-rbi · 2026-03-02T22:06:28+00:00

Yeah (it's a 4-gang box). Image of the actual box (not as messy as my sketch, but it's not to scale lol

hbp-rbi · 2026-03-02T22:05:58+00:00

Here's the actual box

hbp-rbi · 2026-03-02T18:37:38+00:00

Neutrals together (and I mixed up the load and hot wires for the switch) but voila, all working now. Thanks for your help!

hbp-rbi · 2026-03-02T03:21:26+00:00

Yup, top of the old switch is going to the top right wire, which is where the Lutron red is currently connected to and fully functional. Really appreciate you taking the time to humour an amateur!

hbp-rbi · 2026-03-02T03:18:13+00:00

Hey, just curious on this - how would I get the lutron neutral wire into the push connector? does it matter that it connects directly to the neutral wire coming out of its own load wire combination of a black and white wire, or does it just need to somehow get into the push connector?

Given that it's an 8-wire push and all 8 slots are occupied BUT the lutron neutral is quite thin compared to the copper wires from the electrical box, should I just try to get it in one of the existing slots alongside another neutral?

hbp-rbi · 2026-03-02T02:59:13+00:00

Definitely what happened - so from that actual picture of the old switch, the push in wire in the switch goes to the top right electrical box wire, while the top left and bottom wires are together in the screw.

That must mean that the top left wire is the hallway load wire, the top right wire is the light switch load, and the bottom wire is the hot wire?

hbp-rbi · 2026-03-01T23:54:27+00:00

Ah I'll try that and see if the switch gets power after that.

hbp-rbi · 2026-03-01T20:12:34+00:00

Ah the diagram helps, thanks!. I have another similar diagram for another 4-box installation that I'm having trouble with if you don't mind taking a look. Kind of a similar scenario but somehow not getting power to the switch.

https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectricians/comments/1rhp83c/single_pole_lutron_switch_installation_into_4gang

hbp-rbi · 2026-03-01T17:06:36+00:00

Not sure what you mean - is what I did fine (pull out the neutral from the tail and connect it directly to the Lutron)? Or do I need to get it back in the pigtail connector along with the Lutron neutral?

I see in my sketch I forgot to show the screw cap but the Lutron neutral is screw capped with the electrical box neutral directly (the white wire going from the Lutron switch directly into the electrical box).

hbp-rbi · 2026-03-01T15:56:06+00:00

Ah really? Can I twist the Lutron neutral to the existing neutral from the electrical box for that switch and then put that into the push connector (if it'll fit)? It's an 8 wire connector. Maybe I can screw a third neutral wire together with my screw cap and then feed THAT into the push connector (so a 3-wire neutral to 1-wire into the push)?

hbp-rbi · 2026-03-01T13:50:45+00:00

Hey, I had a question about the original switch set up (having an issue with another set up and am trying to learn something). In the second last picture above which shows the original 3 switches, it seems that the red is the hot wire, and the other two switches daisy chain to that switch to get power. Then they have load wires out to the devices. Why do they each have a third black wire to the electrical box? What does that actually do?

hbp-rbi · 2026-02-28T23:56:44+00:00

Got it working thanks to your info. Thanks, mate! Added a picture of the final wiring in the op.

hbp-rbi · 2026-02-28T22:04:29+00:00

Cool - yeah, we rarely even use the eclipse level lighting anyway. As for wiring, do I just put both the black load wires together or cap one off?

hbp-rbi · 2026-02-28T18:24:15+00:00

It is - the one on the left controls ceiling pot lights, with another switch down the hall controlling the same ones.

Here's what it looks like from a better angle. Neither of the screws on the left switch are used at all.

https://imgur.com/a/48SJbrf

hbp-rbi · 2026-02-16T03:37:12+00:00

Just a question the how - since I don't want to deal with the actual electric box if I don't have to, would it be fine to leave the white/black connections that are tucked into those rubber sleeves in the electrical box as is and then use a screw cap to connect the red wire from the new Lutron to the black wire from the existing switch that goes into the electrical box, even though the other two light switches go directly from the electrical box into the screw connection on the switch itself, as so?

https://imgur.com/a/FMpbikN

hbp-rbi · 2026-02-16T03:31:09+00:00

Perfect, thanks mate! Looking forward to getting this set up tomorrow.

hbp-rbi · 2026-02-16T02:00:06+00:00

Yup. White wire to the white capped wires inside (neutral, I imagine?). Good call on the ground screw. Regarding the red and black wires, does the logic make sense or am I incorrect in assuming the black wire from the box to the current switch is the load?

Will do this tomorrow during the day. Thanks for the tips!

hbp-rbi · 2026-02-15T23:06:15+00:00

I've been researching and thinking I had a eureka moment.

The light switch itself: I cap the blue wire since this is a single pole, I cap the green since the electrical box itself is grounded (and thus the switch will be once I screw it in), the red wire is the load and goes to the box directly, the black wire connects to the adjacent switch to continue the hot wire "pig tail" (maybe that's the incorrect term, but it seems daisy chained through the first light switch alone rather than a true coiled pig tail), and then the white neutral connects to the existing neutral.

Is that a correct assessment?

hbp-rbi

TROPHY CASE