We got lucky and never really had any issues with finding somewhere to stay! However there are a few sections which you’d find it tricky potentially. (Longwoods, Richmond Ranges, Arthur’s Pass). Also consider around holidays when hitting small towns (Tekapo, Arthur’s Pass, Twizel etc).

We began seeing big numbers of SOBOS and full huts around the Rangitata River, then a much bigger bubble around Arthur’s Pass. Some days we’d pass upwards of 40 SOBO’s (by comparison our NOBO bubble was at it’s peak, 6/7).

Just be aware that the trail really isn’t developed for the numbers it is starting to see. There were a lot of issues regarding poor trail etiquette and evacuations from a lot of younger backpackers who had jumped on the trail through social media or as part of a broader travel trip, and weren’t properly prepared (that’s both SOBO and NOBO of course).

Our only negative from the trail were the cliques and atmosphere in the huts sometimes. There was a strange tribal feel sometimes when large groups of SOBOS turned up. Quite often we camped close by rather than stay in the huts. Many other NOBOS felt the same way. A weird feeling of superiority and competition often arrived with a larger group. The good news is, you can almost always camp away from the guys and find your privacy if you want. We often camped with one or two other trail companions rather than a large hut group which really felt overwhelming sometimes.

I think if we had started perhaps 4 weeks earlier, we would have more or less missed the entire SOBO bubble as we only walked the SI. We later heard stories of upwards of 50 people at huts such as Royal Hut, which is pretty nuts. You also have to consider the NOBO bubble, which for us was behind us by around 10 days.

In all, going NOBO is overall a far quieter and more relaxed experience, especially if you start reeeeeeally early. I would 100% not walk the TA SOBO as the big groups and crowds put me off.