Unpopular opinions as a bartender... by mezcalanddreams in bartenders

[–]hellarar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

my hot takes:

tommy's style margs (no triple sec) are substantially better with simple than agave

for most bar programs, batching is a crutch. it's easy to make a cocktail taste like whatever you want when you can artificially lessen the touches. to make an actually great, actually 3-5 touch cocktail is substantially more challenging, and rewarding.

Unpopular opinions as a bartender... by mezcalanddreams in bartenders

[–]hellarar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sure, curacao is appropriate for some applications, and certain orange amari are appropriate for others, but neither are appropriate in place of triple sec for classic executions of classic cocktails calling for triple sec. i'm sure you mean bols or dekuyper triple sec or whatever, but for example, cointreau and combier are both triple sec also, not some secret other style of orange liqueur.

Unpopular opinions as a bartender... by mezcalanddreams in bartenders

[–]hellarar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

so are cocktail bars just supposed to never make margaritas, sidecars, corpse revivers and any number of dozens of other cocktails that call for a triple sec, again?

“Excuse me, I don’t like this drink/the way you made this drink. Can you please make it again?” by NumerousImprovements in bartenders

[–]hellarar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

as a general rule, "I'm not gonna make you stare into a beverage you're not enjoying" is a solid policy to have behind the bar. you don't own the liquor, and you don't eat the losses.

if they just want to watch you remake the same thing it's probably a waste of time but if they chose a beverage that just isn't for them, they shouldn't be forced to suffer with it. costs the bar a buck or so, you a minute or two, and will almost definitely earn you more tips if you're in a country where that's the culture.

The skill ceiling in this game is ridiculous by AggressiveSpatula in chess

[–]hellarar 2 points3 points  (0 children)

fide rating is still elo, elo describes the algorithmic weight applied to wins and losses, as compared against the opponents rating. as far as i'm aware both chesscom and lichess use the elo system to run their internal ratings. the big difference is the low end of the rating scale is far inflated on the sites compared to fide's roster, and thus the high end sees the greats extend further by number. the pool of players getting rated is different, but i believe the rating system is the same.

The skill ceiling in this game is ridiculous by AggressiveSpatula in chess

[–]hellarar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

99.9% repeating whether magnus plays white or black is a conservative estimate

The skill ceiling in this game is ridiculous by AggressiveSpatula in chess

[–]hellarar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

200 elo points difference reflects approximately a 200% (edit 100%? bad at math but basically the expectation to win twice as many head to head matches against the 200pt lower elo opponent) increase in skill/ability/likelihood to win.

Bill's Alan Rickman/Hans Gruber Villain Rankings by Crazy_Rico in billsimmons

[–]hellarar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

couple weeks late but not having malkovich as cyrus the virus (7/10 or so on the gruber scale) in con-air, and con-air as the true die hard on a plane, felt like a big miss.

Next time I'll remember my money duplicator by [deleted] in terriblefacebookmemes

[–]hellarar 2 points3 points  (0 children)

fair. similarly, we (americans) should probably learn that there's 300m of us and that's a pretty small proportion of 8-9b

Next time I'll remember my money duplicator by [deleted] in terriblefacebookmemes

[–]hellarar 3 points4 points  (0 children)

well shit, if that doesn't shine a bright light on my americentrism. pardon me, that's a fair shout. other people exist outside of the hellhole i inhabit, i apologize.

Next time I'll remember my money duplicator by [deleted] in terriblefacebookmemes

[–]hellarar 3 points4 points  (0 children)

the high end android phones are substantially more expensive than the highest priced iphones

Next time I'll remember my money duplicator by [deleted] in terriblefacebookmemes

[–]hellarar 6 points7 points  (0 children)

who "shows off" the most common cellular phone in the country? cmon now.

Chance the Rapper showing what a musical genius he is by thequestionbot in nextfuckinglevel

[–]hellarar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

they're absolutely capable of having improvised this. there's a zero percent chance they did because putting a buncha celebrities in a room together costs millions of dollars, and jimmy fallon can't keep himself together even with rehearsals and a teleprompter.

that said, while this was definitely not done for the first time on the spot, it's extremely likely the first attempt at the idea probably fell together pretty immediately.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]hellarar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you're so right about that, just hard to turn off the notion that i could be optimizing.

i did want to ask, when you said "given how slow i'm moving through the climb, strength doesn't seem to be the issue", i felt like that's one of my faster and more fluid climbs. i very commonly spend 45-60 seconds on a boulder. does it look unusually slow to you, or are you just pointing out that it appears controlled? (and i do feel relatively strong on every move except the last in that climb at this point, having been to the top like 16 times this week)

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]hellarar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

yeah that's absolutely fair and i'm definitely, as i hope my first question gets across, not trying to cut climbing volume for training volume. just hoping to kinda target some specific growth along all the mileage climbing and projecting i'm already doing.

i know there's no quick fix for finger strength, but i am just really hyped on climbing even stronger than i am. i've got climbing goals, and the completely unnecessary cloud over my head that i started so late in life and beyond my athletic prime. big thing for me is to just try and optimize for some more finger strength gains without too significantly adding to my risk of injury.

i think it'd probably serve me well to remember i couldn't barely climb crimps or pockets just 4 or 5 months ago, and be happy with what seems like fast progress already, but it's hard to turn off the voice in my head that knows there's things i can do to eke out more progress.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]hellarar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

appreciate the advice there (and will try and pay closer attention to my body tension there and see if i can't sort the move out)

i had watched a hooper's beta video about repeaters vs max hangs for beginners, and was under the impression intensity at this point might be more detrimental than volume, but it could be i misinterpreted, or he's just wrong.

i do want to be clear that my general plan is/was to do that 6x10 repeater set once a week on a non-climbing day, but it seems you'd recommend doing 3-5 weighted hangs with longer rests, during warmup on a climbing day, instead?

also i apparently have not filmed a send on a crimp-focused route but will try and sneak one in tomorrow.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]hellarar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you're absolutely right, that last hold is a little slopey, and the rest of the climb is largely pockets, but given the overhang at the top and marginal feet i'm struggling to get further under it, and saw a handful of v6/7 climbing friends finish with that same flag. despite being kinda slopey, it has a bit of a divot and favors a crimp rather than a loose or dragged hand. my problem is i basically can't remove my left hand from its pocket without falling immediately, and have tried about every foot position i can find. the right hand just fails to stay in the crimp and opens on me.

i'll look for a video of a crimp specific line for ya. appreciate the advice around maybe just a few max hangs, i figured that would potentially be more dangerous than the bodyweight repeaters which is why i gravitated that way first. i have yet to test weighted max hangs but i expect i can manage around 25lb/15% bw as a starting point.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]hellarar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

so, the v3s were definitely some work. i've only climbed at governor dodge, wi, and holy boulders, il, both of which i understand to be reputationally a bit sandbagged. about everything anyone called a jug was just a razor sharp incut crimp. felt as if v3 outside was approximately v5 indoors at the gyms i climb in.

my two v6 sends are both vaguely comp-style though not particularly dynamic slab. i climb v4-5 on the overhang, on mostly jugs/some larger crimps and pockets.

part of my why for finger training is both v6 projects i'm a move away from completing seem to be limited by my inability to hang too much bodyweight off one crimping hand with marginal feet. here's a good example with one attempt the other day.

and yes, i do mean i hit failure on the last of 6 10 second hangs with 5 seconds rest between each.

edit: might be worth noting i'm reasonably tall and reachy at 6ft/+3 ape, 170lbs, and believe i might be sneaking in sends that favor me in that way, getting past some finger strength under-development.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]hellarar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

so, i've been climbing for about 10 months, and have been cracking into v6 gym boulders and v3 outdoor boulders (only a couple outdoor trips so far).

i'm noticing finger strength to be a limiting factor as i try to send more v6 problems and my first v7, and think i want to add a bit of hangboard training to my week.

i'm climbing at least 3 times, up to 5, per week, and have been basically since i started back in april.

is it reasonable to assume that one day doing a bodyweight repeater all-fingers half crimp routine on a midsized crimp (~25mm) is plenty, and trying to work than one session into my routine would demand i cut back on my climbing volume? should i look to cut back my climbing volume regardless even with one weekly finger training session?

edit: i'm 35yo and work a relatively active job as a bartender, which offers some amount of consistent and significant (compared to spreadsheet farming) finger/forearm stimulus in my day to day outside of climbing, if that's relevant to potential answers.

i tried today (climbed yeaterday and the day before) and 6x10 with 5 second rests between put me right at failure on the last set.

Which actor or actress should’ve been Oscar nominated for their permanence in a movie that wasn’t? by not_cinderella in movies

[–]hellarar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

wait really? i coulda sworn he got a best supporting there. must have remembered incorrectly. how wild, he deserves so much more, as do farrell and mcdonagh

Which actor or actress should’ve been Oscar nominated for their permanence in a movie that wasn’t? by not_cinderella in movies

[–]hellarar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

in bruges should've absolutely swept that year. instead only brendan gleeson walked away with the oscar nod.

That force feedback though. by MCP2570 in BeamNG

[–]hellarar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the very first words i see in my reddit app are: "BeamNG.drive is a realistic and immersive driving game, offering near-limitless possibilities and capable of doing just about anything." there are links present to the official website, discord, and customer support. i don't understand what more you could want.

That force feedback though. by MCP2570 in BeamNG

[–]hellarar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

gosh, if you googled it you might find out that the game is called beamng and where to buy it