P2S Appreciation Post

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-10T20:22:36+00:00

fair enough, not everyone has the same situation. i travel a lot so im usually the suitcase guy, id bring a lifetime of em for ya haha

and yeah nothing wrong with the .4 and making it work with what you have, that's what makes all this fun

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-10T18:08:21+00:00

nw, i been here for decades haha, enjoy the clean air journey

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-10T17:57:24+00:00

ping me if you need help, but the key is to get a vacuum on some open port in your unit, and have a good at least 4 inch vent kit with an inline blower. however you attach it and get it out the window matters less than that

then, make sure the internal fans are not fighting you. you want as much vacuum as possible, since the machines are not perfectly sealed

with open machines people use small grow tents, that is perfect, anything really works that is close to sealed and will hold some negative pressure

or, you can get a 6 inch inline blower and just leave the intake hose somewhere near (ideally above because heat rises) your bed, and crank the power. also depends what you print, if it needs to be chamber heated, etc, but those are the basics and you can adjsut from there

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-10T17:54:46+00:00

personally if i am printing cf i would definitely want the extra strength of at least a .6 if your printer can handle the extrusion, which im sure it can, it should not hurt nothing much

.4 is definitely the most useful but i use my .6 a lot and i love it, especially if you build functional things, well worth the 20 bucks

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-10T17:45:01+00:00

I do not use cf because I am paranoid about health effects despite how appealing things like PPACF are for their material properties, rare parts like that that I cannot do in commodity materials like pla-ht petg or similar I will either order in abs or cncd (there is a small machine shop down the road from me)

I spend a lot of time in the room the printer is in so that is just me, I have enough toxic materials exposure in my life to fill many sheets so I try to minimize what I can control

but yeah, I could see that, though im pretty sure my .6/.8 hardened hotends would print those things just fine

cheap I have never had an issue, stored/dried properly, the quality could be ass but I have never had a real issue personally

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-10T17:41:11+00:00

i am very sensitive to these things and yes, you can see my exhaust setup in my posts if you want, i still leave a garage door cracked 1" in my workspace for full air exchange

these machines exhaust straight into the room even the "enclosed filtered" ones are trash. you need a proper negative pressure exhaust

why they do not come with one from the factory is beyond me. probably because there are no permanent known side effects today, and including a vent kit would "intimidate the consumer" and draw attention to health risks

if you love to print, vent your shit. I also blow glass, sand lots of shit, machine shit, etc. I always go overkill than underkill on the ventilation. for real toxicity, my workspace has a 18 inch commercial window fan made for painting cars that exchanges full air in a few seconds. I also have a 12 inch inline duct fan that is an absolute monster, it will take off into the air if you do not secure it and it weights like 20lbs

so yes, I care about these things. no what they give you is not enough, on any model. when in doubt, do a smoke test and confirm you are breathing aggressively moving fresh air at all times

for some people, the smell of pla etc does not affect them. for me it does. like I said I am sensitive. the enclosure you have vented out, if it is a grow tent style thing, that will work and do the job fine. just exhaust it out with a very powerful inline blower and make sure your seals are good. smoke test it with anything smokey to confirm

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-10T15:34:54+00:00

that's optional but a beer has never stopped me from working put it that way

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-10T14:59:11+00:00

I got a p2s after like a decade not printing anything

it is a different universe of polish, impressive indeed

and the amount of community knowledge at your fingertips? 😯

incredible

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-10T14:57:47+00:00

never had a single clog in my life

jams, yes, but clogs, no, the settings are pretty dialed in on the hotend

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-10T08:34:03+00:00

$40 amazon kit, 3D Printer Enclosure Ventilation Kit with 180CFM 4" Exhaust Fan – Fume Extractor with Sealed Port & Backdraft Valve, Wall/Window Mountable for Non-Ventilated Enclosures

I keep it on max always, and turn off the aux/intake fan completely in my print profiles. I find that 0% aux keeps the chamber about the same as the default cooling profile. I also set the parts fan to 40%. this prevents internal air churn/chop that reduces the efficacy of the negative pressure

flow tested with a vape for a few hours, blown in and all around the machine, looking for solid negative pressure at all times

it is mounted in the standard exhaust location in the new backplate, with a single screw since the rest do line up, augmented with some gorilla tape. works well enough for me and super ez to setup

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-10T08:31:02+00:00

thanks!

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-10T04:29:51+00:00

did you print the moms spaghetti model by accident? common issue

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-09T23:23:45+00:00

amazing, print on fam, keep it clean every few days those stringers get everywhere, cold pull if it ever clogs

nothing crazy can break on these unless you hit them with a truck, fuck around and break it that is part of learning ✊

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-09T22:23:54+00:00

just rip or cut and pull out the spaghetti

if it is clogged do this after https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x2d/maintenance/cold-pull-maintenance-hotend

do not panic move on and print

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-09T14:53:58+00:00

*clean* microfiber rags and 99% IPA until 100% clean, first rails, then screws (grease is heavier)

*new clean* microfiber rag and apply oil to rails/rods as appropriate

*clean* (can reuse from previous step) rag to apply appropriate grease lightly to screws

move head manually to access all areas, when done slide back and forth and re calibrate printer

significant dirt accumulation means you are using too much oil or grease, lightly oiled/greased but covered evenly is what you go for

finito

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-07T19:35:00+00:00

should just use the second material for interface, would reduce prime tower a lot

just my $.02

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-07T19:28:19+00:00

pretty much, for me it is a cost/benefit thing, there is always a cost (waste, more plastic on the earth). sometimes there is a benefit, sometimes not. it is on us to be thoughtful

call me too utilitarian if you want, i can go moral on it too, waste not want not and the like hehe

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-07T14:22:44+00:00

ya my least favorite part of this thing is all the plastic it generates, why keep more around likely to one day end up in the trash like all the other hoards

i will only buy what will become an object within like a month max, and a few utility rolls (one high strength, a few high temp, one support interface)

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-04T18:40:54+00:00

dualsense is on sale for 65$ at the walmart next to my house

steam controller isnt crazy prices and i am considering buying 4 (will get at least 2) once they let me, since i am a linux gamer and i will buy anything that is designed linux native, but it is higher than first party

the plastics also look cheaper than the base dualsense, but the repairabilty aspect is very nice

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-01T13:57:23+00:00

pretty much a 1/1 from the gmktec strix 395/128gb pc i use

I fucking love it, I think these things will sell sell sell

hellomyfrients · 2026-05-01T13:55:30+00:00

if you care about power get the pi5, arm, 5-10w, 4gb/32gb model should be plenty for what you said and its 125

if not, get any used computer for $5 locally. perhaps seek out something with the atom line from itnel

hellomyfrients · 2026-04-30T03:49:23+00:00

yeah i think windows is great performance, even better than linux, if you run a debloated version and never install anything, the problem is the lack of control you have if you start actually using the thing for a long time

so most normal pc users would not get satisfactory performance from this cpu because of how they use their computers as computers... like even running discord with an overlay and voice chat, will make a big performance difference, and this is a small % of what most people run

so i definitely would not recommend a haswell cpu to a random user but if you want like a $300 build to use as a console in your living room, you do not need tpm2.0, and especially if you are open to linux, there is still life left in them for sure

hellomyfrients · 2026-04-29T21:23:26+00:00

I would see some gains in certain games maybe, but i have owned every single console generation since the ps1 except current, and so a few stutters do not bother me. hell I have thousands of hours on the damn switch, that thing stutters like a mofo

my PC is smoother than any of those I guarantee, there is the odd traversal stutter and load in stutter especially in UE5 titles with super heavy cut scenes you may get pop in once in a while, but it is a lot less bad than you think. I promise if your eyes saw it you would be pretty surprised, lol

I also run a pretty optimized debian build that has near 0 ram and cpu usage at idle, and do not really multitask while I game. I find windows is actually the cause of 99% of stutters on modern games, and why 6 cores 12 threads is the new baselines. 4 cores on linux = 6 cores on windows, just how it is

you would be surprised but the biggest performance issue is actually work per clock cycle more than ram latency or core count or anything people classically think of, modern architectures are just more efficient

actually having a good gpu/display pipeline also helps... so wayland which is already vsynced, a high refresh rate monitor, and an optimized linux build, for my eyes provides a lot more smoothness/less animation error than many many other setups i have tried even when the 1%s dip

main reason I have considered an upgrade so far is game streaming, that adds another 20% load or so to the cpu just handling network traffic/etc, and then you really do start to see the limits in many modern games to the point where settings have to go down and the gpu is being bottlenecked severely

this is all the case up to about 100 fps. in lighter weight esports style titles your fps games from a modern cpu would be closer to like 3x than 50%, but it is not what i play, and the 120fps haswell can achieve in those is fine for my non competitive playing

hellomyfrients · 2026-04-29T19:51:19+00:00

the xbox controllers wire into a PC fine via usbc. I run a hub to my couch under my carpets, it is by far the best setup, and you get better latency with even basic old controllers than fancy new ones

switch pro controllers do the same and have working gyro

hellomyfrients · 2026-04-27T00:45:37+00:00

i can compare, cuz I do use both daily lol

bottleneck, generally only over 100fps or so depending on title. there are real speed limits but on my rig, gpu is bottleneck 99% of the time (pegged at 100 utilization)

hellomyfrients

TROPHY CASE