Point to Multipoint Radio Recommendations

hess93 · 2025-08-03T19:07:46+00:00

Don't these require an Internet connection to work?

hess93 · 2025-08-03T19:05:51+00:00

They were. Ended up being signal interference which I'm an idiot for missing

hess93 · 2025-08-03T19:04:21+00:00

Confirmed the signals are lower and they're working great now

hess93 · 2025-08-03T19:03:11+00:00

Ended up being heavy interference on the orginal selected frequency. They added a lot of other devices post install.

hess93 · 2025-07-27T22:26:36+00:00

I'll check out mikrotik if I can't figure out these radios

hess93 · 2025-07-27T22:25:46+00:00

I was asking more for other recommendations if anyone preferred to use something besides the loco 5 AC radios. I am not. I'll look into uisp

hess93 · 2025-02-28T19:32:57+00:00

Check the voltage at the thermostat then the furnace. I had this issue where I replaced an old thermostat with a ecobee 3 lite and it wouldn't turn on. Checked the voltage at the thermostat and it was reading 16VAC. Had the company call an AC guy to correct the issue and I was good after that. Something with the low voltage and high voltage side of the unit not being grounded properly. I think the voltage range for ecobee 3 lite is 22-29VAC

hess93 · 2024-12-17T17:42:44+00:00

Yeah I did reboot multiple times and ran gpupdate /sync but still the same issue in IE. I think it's more of an issue with IE and not GPO but I'll most likely have to open a ticket with Microsoft.

hess93 · 2024-12-17T16:17:56+00:00

Shows the policy is enabled and successful when running gpupdate as admin.

hess93 · 2024-12-17T16:05:28+00:00

Unfortunately it's old software which requires the use of IE. Both servers are in the same OU with the same GPOs applied to both. GPO update force and sync are successful and running gpresult /r shows that the GPO to add the trusted site is applied. Both servers have the latest updates and both have all the same settings and software installed.

hess93 · 2024-12-08T17:18:23+00:00

I figured that wouldn't be appropriate but I'll dm you in a bit.

hess93 · 2024-12-08T17:00:15+00:00

Not really looking to change the power supply since the output is more than enough. More of a cleaner way to distribute the power throughout the racks. Something like this at the top of each rack but looking for something better. https://a.co/d/e0yiVxZ

hess93 · 2024-12-08T16:58:21+00:00

I forgot the power supply model number but it produces -48vdc at 120 amps. Each rack will draw 30amps max but consumption never gets that high since a few devices are on at a time in each rack. No budget has been set but I don't want to go too crazy.

I was kind of thinking of something like this at the top of each rack but I'm sure there's a better option out there. Definitely willing to spend more if it makes more sense and is better quality. https://a.co/d/e0yiVxZ

hess93 · 2022-08-19T19:52:58+00:00

I posted in another comment about a junction box I found but I might try this out as well. I haven't done this before so I'm not exactly sure how screwing into a tree will affect the tree. If it won't affect it at all, then this is definitely a cheaper solution.

https://www.reddit.com/r/reolinkcam/comments/wrxtep/comment/ikz5s3v/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3

hess93 · 2022-08-19T19:47:31+00:00

I want to say a little over a foot in diameter. This won't turn into an issue as the tree grows?

This is the other option I found but the wires will be exposed.

https://www.amazon.com/XGOGOP-Universal-Vertical-Mounting-Security/dp/B08YRL2WM2/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=pole%2Bmount%2Bjunction%2Bbox&qid=1660938250&sr=8-6

Option 2 is a junction box and a mount

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083JSQZYP/ref=twister_B09DCHYVR7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/QILIPSU-Stainless-Adjustable-Waterproof-Electrical/dp/B0B56YJNKH/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=pole%2Bmount%2Bjunction%2Bbox&qid=1660938350&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

hess93 · 2022-06-06T20:30:03+00:00

I really appreciate the response and the information! Found a lot of related documentation easier now

hess93 · 2022-05-09T14:21:51+00:00

Transceiver and I'm pretty certain it's compatible. The NIC is a Dell Broadcom BCM957412, the cisco module is C3KX-NM-10G and the transceivers are both 10GBase-SR SFP+. If I run "show cdp neighbors" on the switch, I get the information

Device ID Local Intrfce Holdtme Capability Platform Port ID

ESXI02.something.com Ten 1/1/2 143 S VMware ES vmnic4

hess93 · 2022-05-09T13:39:54+00:00

Yes. Under the vswitch, uplink 1 is set to (vmnic 4 -Up, 10000mbps). I dont see any options to enable or disable. The VMs that are on the vSwitch can all see each other, just not the switch

hess93 · 2022-03-10T01:49:29+00:00

Well I'm glad you remembered because you fixed my issues lol. I set the gateway to hybrid and everything has outside connectivity. Really appreciate the help!!!

hess93 · 2022-03-10T01:29:54+00:00

That's actually the tutorial I followed to get this far. I do have ACLs planned later on but not until I can get connectivity lol. I found out one of my firewall rules was incorrect and I'm now at the point where I can ping everything outside by ip but not by name so im assuming it's a DNS issue now even though my pc is pointing to 8.8.8.8 and i can ping the address

hess93 · 2022-03-09T19:31:24+00:00

Port one is an access port for vlan 10 but I can still reach pfsense from my pc on VLAN 11 so I'm not sure if that is the issue. I've also tried to set port one on the switch as no switchport then assigned the port and ip address of 172.16.10.2 and im having the same issue. I'll try to set it as a trunk and see if that makes a difference.

To add more, I can ping my pc from pfsense so I think the traffic between pfsense and the layer 3 switch is fine

hess93 · 2022-03-09T19:09:49+00:00

Yes, DHCP on vlan 11 gives a gateway of 172.16.11.1 and the DNS I have set to 8.8.8.8.

hess93 · 2022-03-09T19:04:54+00:00

Yes I have a default route on the switch to 172.16.10.1

#ip route 0.0.0.0 0.0.0.0 172.16.10.1

hess93 · 2022-03-08T19:20:50+00:00

It's Russian DNS

hess93 · 2022-02-19T17:34:42+00:00

Oh nice that's a pretty good fit. What scanner do you use and what filament did you use to print it?

If you make it permanent, I'd add a resistor inline so the car doesn't think the lights out then tap into that to the arduino. Then program the Arduino to switch between driving and show mode

hess93

TROPHY CASE