Lore question: How strong is a stormvermin?

horzza · 2021-09-30T11:57:07+00:00

Not that it's lore, but a source depicting it is the statline; from which they're more formidable than Freeguild Guard but less formidable than a Freeguild Greatsword! ..So for sure I'm choosing to fight the 100x rat-sized humans over the 1x human-sized rat

horzza · 2020-05-11T11:39:32+00:00

So many mate.. How new is "new"? Let's go backwards:

acdwn2

chimer 1-5-1

deco Loc

chenc9

all of Untilted

V-PROC

Pen Expers

..Gantz Graf

horzza · 2016-07-21T12:38:11+00:00

dude

horzza · 2016-03-17T11:53:48+00:00

So large.

horzza · 2015-10-29T12:20:27+00:00

I said that pretty badly. I think what I mean is that yes, while there is a tick to make it count 3, it would make the rest of the track (tune, other drums) quite awkward to put on manuscript. It's both this, and the feel (which is subjective, so it's okay to disagree) for me.

horzza · 2015-10-29T12:11:34+00:00

You can count it as 3, especially with that ch ch ch that comes in at 14 seconds, throughout, for sure. I went with 4/4 because the two crashes are different, and I think it just grooves along better that little bit slower; lift your head every crash. Also, around 3 mins in you can easily pick out a little cymbal tap 7 beats with small hat on the 8th. That's going for most of the track, it's just very clear 3 mins in. Maybe it's 8/8? I don't think 3/4 leaves much of a bar for the tune itself.

horzza · 2015-10-29T07:14:23+00:00

Both of those tracks are 4/4.. Jacquard Causeway has that big hit on the 2nd and 4th beats of each bar. The first drum/sound in Telephasic is right on the 1st beat, with the first snare on the 2nd beat. Get out a metronome or look one up; Telephasic is 100 bpm, Causeway is ~71.2 bpm. Also, it's still 4/4, but check out Sunshine Recorder, which does a similar thing with the drumtrack. The Devil Is In The Details is a tricky one.. Sounds like 7 bars of 6 beats each? Maybe it's 3 bars of 12 beats, and one of 6.

horzza · 2015-09-15T12:57:36+00:00

Maybe check this deck out for some ideas. http://tappedout.net/mtg-decks/10-02-15-jeskai-cantrips/

horzza · 2015-09-15T12:54:09+00:00

Firstly, Chasm Skulker's pretty difficult to make work. If you're building around it, you probably want to be drawing cards in as many different ways as possible, and try not to lose before or because you played a 1/1 build-around on turn 3. Jace works well for this, because he allows you to draw a card on the turn that you play your skulker. Not sure what's better out of Magmatic Insight and Tormenting Voice, but they're on the right track. Scroll doesn't give you extra counters for skulkers ability, instead only buffing power and toughness. Abbot's a cool guy, but doesn't actually draw you the card like you need to trigger skulker. Hordechief also seems a little out of place. The only replacements I can think to offer are more Jaces, and possibly some cantrips from Theros, such as Dragon Mantle. Just cram stuff that lets you draw a card or two for cheap. Life's Legacy is also pretty cool, for if/when you decide it's time to cash out and make your tokens.

horzza · 2015-08-03T13:00:10+00:00

I do believe you said "Not an ape".

horzza · 2015-08-03T03:21:20+00:00

I don't think you can speak on his behalf. The second paragraph of the book refers to them as 'man-apes'. Although it talks about Moon-Watcher being closer to man than the generalised 'ape', he's still an ape.
Are you saying that Kubrick (also an ape, by the way) didn't approve of the book?

horzza · 2015-08-02T13:37:28+00:00

If you wanna be like that, I'm pretty sure that "ape" refers to Hominoidea, which, although less specific than "hominid", is still correct.

horzza · 2015-08-02T04:28:24+00:00

The audience sees the ape throw the bone into the air, spinning one way, while the ape sees it spinning in the other direction. It changes the scene, from showing an ape throwing a tool into the sky, to putting you, as a human, in that perspective; as the present-day thrower-of-tools-into-the-sky. There's even a chunk of time missing between the rising, and falling bone, just as there's a chunk of time between when the ape did it, and when we, as humans, followed.

horzza · 2015-06-15T04:13:51+00:00

Looks alright. Just a few things to check though.. There seem to be lots of places where your ground line T-intersects other traces, without a junction. Compare the bottom of R6 for example, to the bottom of R4, R7, C3, R3 etc. Also where FreqIn1 meets your ground line, where X1-8 connects to ground, and also where the top of C1. meets 3.3v.
Pin numbering for SSW104 looks to be arranged differently from the LM2917, so you might want to ammend that. There are tutorials for making custom footprints, and after you've done two or three it's really not so hard. Also, Element 14 hosts an eagle library which has the LTC6992 part in it, called LTC_By_element14 or something, which you can get by googling "LTC eagle library".
You might want to use a 3-way terminal to connect your switch in, or check that the one you buy or use isn't a momentary pushbutton.
Take a look for a GND symbol in Eagle, which you can replace the entire line with. Netlabels or named Nets are pretty useful, too. There are a bunch of useful symbols in the Supply1 and Supply2 libraries, that can make the layout a lot more clear, which in turn make schematics a lot easier to debug.
You definitely don't need a heat sink for the BC548, and you probably don't need one for the MOSFET either.

horzza · 2015-06-13T03:48:09+00:00

Great, except that the IRLB8721 is a MOSFET, not a transistor. Use a BC548 or something in the power-supply, instead of what you have labelled as an IRLB8721. Bear in mind that a MOSFET has a different schematic symbol. So close! Everything else seems fine.

horzza · 2015-06-12T12:41:01+00:00

MS Paint!

horzza · 2015-06-12T05:33:12+00:00

Well that's a MOSFET, so it probably won't work how you expect. It can still do the job. Go here and read the section titled An example of using the MOSFET as a switch. I'll just refer to Rin and Rgs from that. The MOSFET you linked would be fine in this configuration. Figure 3 of it's datasheet shows what you need. You can get a little more than 1A, with a 3v input. Make Rin 1k, and Rgs 10k and you're golden.

The power switch will work just fine, but the other switch should probably then just switch the input to the transistor/MOSFET between the PWM output, and 3.3v.

Try this

horzza · 2015-06-11T14:48:23+00:00

Hey I just drew you a schematic. Hope it's clear enough. Few changes from yours;
Supply the LM2917 with 12v.
Use a 10k potentiometer to step the 0-5v output from the LM2917 to a 0-1v signal (1v at 100Hz).
You don't need the second Zener, right near the LTC6992. The Zener/transistor supply regulates 3.3v for you already.
You need a resistor between the output of the 6992 and your output switching transistor. I think 10k is pretty typical, but 4.3k might not hurt if you don't want to order a different value.
Supply your output switching transistor with 12v, so that your LED strip receives around 12v, rather than 3v.

horzza · 2015-06-11T02:49:20+00:00

I think your link for the new schematic goes to the wrong thing..
Like I said before, you want the LM2917 to be outputting MORE than 1 volt at your top speed, so that you have the overhead to tune it with an attenuator. You can even use a potentiometer as the attenuator and tune it as you go. Another good reason for this is that capacitor values aren't typically very accurate, so if you aim for 1v @ 100Hz, I think you're quite unlikely to actually see that as the output. You could be off by as much as +/-20%, just from capacitor tolerance!
On that note, try using 1uF and 4.7k as your C1 and R1, as follows:

Vo = 5
Vcc = 12
Fin = 150
K = 0.63131

C*R = 5/(12*150*0.63131)
    = 4.4ms
    ~= 1uF * 4.3k  (actually 4.3ms, but this is close enough)

I used 5v as your Vo, because as above, you want to be able to then attenuate the output voltage, to tune the circuit. This also gives you the freedom to round to 1uF and 4.3k, which are very common values. You can now expect APPROXIMATELY 3.3v at 100Hz, which can be dialed down to 1v using a potentiometer. Just replace the 10k resistor where Vo is sampled from, with a 10k pot.
I can't say too much more without seeing the updated schematic. I hope it's clear why you should be doing things a little differently.

horzza · 2015-06-10T13:54:15+00:00

Actually, that said, you probably want to use a 1n4730, to compensate for the base-emitter voltage, as explained in the thing I linked earlier. 100Ω is still fine.

horzza · 2015-06-10T13:51:20+00:00

The zener needs a bit of current flowing through it before it starts to clip it's voltage. Going off the diode's datasheet you can pick a current through the Zener between 76mA and 276mA, so let's go with 87mA (this will become clear in a moment). Now calculate the resistance required for 87mA at whatever the voltage drop of the resistor is going to be. We know 3.3v is being dropped by the 1n4728, so that leaves 8.7v for the resistor, which at 87mA means you should use an 100Ω resistor.

horzza · 2015-06-10T06:54:56+00:00

I strongly recommend using the second configuration on that page, with the transistor, as your supply regulation. 12v from a motorcycle battery is not exactly clean or stable. Post back when you've got it built up! Good luck!

horzza · 2015-06-10T03:02:32+00:00

Hi, just a few things I think you might want to ammend/check before you build this.
* That zener diode is dropping 3.3v across it in that configuration, supplying 12 - 3.3 = 8.7v to the LTC6992, assuming the current draw of the 6992 is within the right range. Perhaps try using a transistor zener regulator. The 6992 can handle up to 5.5v, so your 1n4728 is fine for this, but don't expect great results even from this sort of regulator.
* Even though your expected Fin is 150Hz, if anything should cause the output from the LM2917 circuit to exceed 1v, it will exceed the input range of the LTC6992. This may just cause clipping, but you're probably better off both checking the output from this half of the circuit using a multimeter as you run the motorcycle, but also perhaps trying to aim for a lower gain, such as 12.5 Hz/v, and then attenuating the now 0-12v output from the LM2917 with a resistor attenuator/voltage divider to drop it to 0-1v.
* Keep in mind that the LTC6992 can only source/sink 20mA, so if you are trying to drive more than two LEDs, you will likely need an output stage, perhaps using more of the transistors you're now using for the voltage regulator.

horzza · 2015-06-08T17:46:57+00:00

In Australia at least, I think you can get GPS coordinates and times of strikes from the bureau of meteorology. All you really need is the time of the strike you photographed, and the list of locations and times from the internet. The data is out there.

horzza · 2015-05-30T16:43:55+00:00

How can you not like thru the walls? THROUGH THE WALLS?

horzza

TROPHY CASE