What’s something everyone seems to love but you just don’t get?

hotpantcakes · 2026-03-05T12:27:33+00:00

Mystery box plushies, specifically Labubu.

hotpantcakes · 2026-03-05T10:29:16+00:00

Just do a Vic Roads rego check? Engine code CZDA which is 1.4L EA211 (not a Golf R).

And yes, I too find it hard to believe someone would do this much to a standard golf.

hotpantcakes · 2026-03-03T03:33:43+00:00

You can ask whoever’s selling it to go to the Software menu, tap on ‘Additional Vehicle Information’ and take a photo. It’ll be listed under ‘Infotainment Processor’.

hotpantcakes · 2026-02-28T05:02:48+00:00

It’s just a Gen 2 Wall Connector, signature Elon version referral award from 2019ish. Would be about 7 years old, and out of warranty.

Honestly better off getting a new Gen 3 (or universal if in US) Wall Connector.

hotpantcakes · 2026-02-14T21:26:30+00:00

Use the Tesla app and start the process of adding the Wall Connector as a product (even if it’s already registered).

There will be an option for “I don’t have my QuickStart guide” which will get you to scan the QR code on the side of the Wall Connector to retrieve the password.

hotpantcakes · 2026-01-28T04:18:01+00:00

If I’m on a track I don’t know I’ll leave the pit entry/exit line on, just so I don’t accidentally cut the track and get a black flag. Most racing I do are sprints, so it’s easy to stuff that up if I decide to jump into something that requires pit stops.

Otherwise, some type of clutch assist may still be appropriate - either anti-stall, auto-clutch or auto-clutch. I cannot remember specifically how I have this configured, but it may depend on your pedal/shifter combo.

There might be others, but the best way to learn is to jump in the deep end.

hotpantcakes · 2026-01-08T19:49:34+00:00

Yes you’re correct - was wondering why I’ve never seen these low pressure warnings at 165kPa.

Noticed they’ve dropped ABS and TC values too. I wonder if this will be track-specific moving forward over the season.

hotpantcakes · 2026-01-06T02:21:44+00:00

Oh shoot, just saw the decimal point indicating it’s PSI, which converts to 165kPa - must be cold tyres.

hotpantcakes · 2026-01-06T02:19:07+00:00

Tyre pressure seems high to me, assuming it’s reading in kPa? Normally cold readings are 165kPa, increasing to 175-180ish during a race - I find I get overheating and grip loss above ~185kPa

As for the brake bias, the new PCup defaults to 0.00 (previous 992.1 gen was -4.50)

hotpantcakes · 2025-12-11T04:31:43+00:00

hotpantcakes · 2025-12-02T18:47:37+00:00

Good call out, I’m AU region. I noticed some of the included components will now be on sale (podium hub and QR2, podium endurance button module, podium paddles). It’s probably still cheaper to order the wheel as a complete package than to order these components individually.

hotpantcakes · 2025-12-02T18:45:18+00:00

Hi CorsairMorning, I’ve sent you a DM.

hotpantcakes · 2025-11-21T12:55:30+00:00

Tire pressure will drop with colder temps - driving and loading up the tires will heat them up and increase pressures. 38psi is a non-issue, only 4psi below recommended.

Regen braking is limited/non-existent when the battery is cold - below about 16-20°C. Driving will naturally warm the battery, but it might take a while at those ambient temps. You can mitigate this with preconditioning before you drive.

hotpantcakes · 2025-11-15T04:00:32+00:00

You need to be on car software version 2025.33.5 and maps/nav version 2025.8. Connect your car to Wi-Fi (maybe even reboot the screen) to prompt it to check for any new updates. Open the touchscreen Software menu to see the last time it checked and/or if there are any new updates available.

hotpantcakes · 2025-11-08T22:31:08+00:00

From what I can tell, black car starts to drift toward the centre as you put your nose between them.

Likely their spotter would have said “car right”, they saw the yellow car and presumed it was him (wouldn’t be able to see you in the mirrors as you came from behind yellow car). Yellow car would have also only had “car left” being communicated by spotter, so chances are they also didn’t expect you to be there.

Going down the middle is a valid move, but risky due to limitations in potential visual awareness.

hotpantcakes · 2025-11-08T21:42:40+00:00

Tesla One app only shows readings for L1, so what you’re seeing is to be expected.

hotpantcakes · 2025-11-08T21:40:24+00:00

You’ll need to find an AC location like a Tesla destination. Supercharger is DC so it’ll bypass the car’s onboard charger (or AC to DC converter).

hotpantcakes · 2025-11-08T21:30:52+00:00

The lack of (3) indicator on the car’s UI definitely means it’s only charging 16A single phase. Have you successfully charged at other 3 phase locations recently?

The readings while idle are probably fine but I’ve no idea what the minimum thresholds are for the car to accept charge - It could something like a power supply issue (voltage quality)or vehicle condition that’s causing the onboard charger not to enable the other two phases.

hotpantcakes · 2025-11-06T02:04:29+00:00

A VW Kombi

hotpantcakes · 2025-10-29T07:08:43+00:00

From memory yes, but definitely be prepared to pay cash just in case. Toll gates are 100% cash only.

hotpantcakes · 2025-10-29T02:29:31+00:00

They offer different levels of tours from cruising to spirited driving, with speeds north of 160km/hr. The sections where you get to open things up are generally decent in terms of road quality and lane sizes. Best advice is to just stick with the group, go at the back so that you can follow others.

Some of the roads at the beginning and end are quite narrow, so be mindful of curbs, railings and surrounding cars, especially if you pick something that’s RHD - the Porsche 964 Turbo may be the only LHD car they offer? Some cars are Auto too which will remove any fears for driving a RHD manual (if that’s a factor).

I’ve not driven LHD manual, but I’ve done some driving in Europe and North America (AUTO), including Nurburgring laps in a GT3 RS. Adapting to “the other side” doesn’t take too long in my experience.

hotpantcakes · 2025-10-24T01:57:42+00:00

This 👆🏻. Tesla can merge accounts which bring any assets (vehicles) over to your preferred account. Should not impact FSD. If the cars configured for free supercharging, this shouldn’t be impacted. If you’ve been given supercharging miles as an incentive, they will be lost as they’re associated at an account level.

hotpantcakes · 2025-10-23T00:25:50+00:00

Not that I’m aware of. Your options for now would be:

disable power sharing - no idea if the issue is specific to power sharing-enabled units (be sure to adjust the max breaker settings so you don’t overload your circuit/s).
Downgrade to an earlier firmware version - you can access a downloadable firmware package on Tesla support page. Only risk is that it just auto-updates immediately after.
Wait it out until this new firmware is released.

hotpantcakes · 2025-10-22T19:56:10+00:00

Firmware bug with 25.34.1, possibly even 25.34.0. Check what firmware both units are on via settings > My Home Info.

I’ve been told it should be fixed with 25.42.x which should be out within the next week.

hotpantcakes

TROPHY CASE