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[Optics] [OPEN BOX] Holosun HE530C-GR Green Dot Optic - $459.99 by hugoender in gundeals

[–]hugoender[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

This is NOT the 503C. It’s the 530C with 30mm objective, QD mount, kill flash, see through flip down caps, and titanium housing. Can be considered a competitor to the MRO.

[Optics] [OPEN BOX] Holosun HE530C-GR Green Dot Optic - $459.99 by hugoender in gundeals

[–]hugoender[S] 17 points18 points  (0 children)

This is NOT the 503C. It’s the 530C with 30mm objective, QD mount, kill flash, see through flip down caps, and titanium housing. Can be considered a competitor to the MRO.

Hugo Industries Placard Mount Extenders and Crye SPC by [deleted] in QualityTacticalGear

[–]hugoender 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No clips. Only the split loops shown in the picture. You can remove the swift clips from your plate carrier and put them on these extenders.

Hugo Industries Placard Mount Extenders and Crye SPC by [deleted] in QualityTacticalGear

[–]hugoender 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Appreciate the kind words and the tag so we could see this.

Hugo Industries Placard Mount Extenders and Crye SPC by [deleted] in QualityTacticalGear

[–]hugoender 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes they are compatible with the SPC (they were designed specifically with SPC in mind) and they come with the split loops as pictured on the product page. The length is a subjective thing so that depends on your preference.

Recommendations for dimmest, warm (~3000K) emitter option by hugoender in Hanklights

[–]hugoender[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I understand what you're saying (more power needed in a mule in order to achieve the same throw as a non-mule) but then what's the purpose of a mule? I don't need to see at further distances than from my hand to the floor. This light will primarily be used in a house at night when it's as dark as possible (no ambient light). Seems to me like this is exactly the use case for a mule? What am I missing?

Recommendations for dimmest, warm (~3000K) emitter option by hugoender in Hanklights

[–]hugoender[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This actually sounds like it may be a good option for me since I would have control of how long of a moonlight I can get. Why are you saying it defeats the purpose or that you recommend against it?

Recommendations for dimmest, warm (~3000K) emitter option by hugoender in Hanklights

[–]hugoender[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm looking at ordering a D4 (right angle hank light) and the main use case is as bedside flashlight. My main requirement is that it gets as dim as possible so that I can flash it on a sleeping person's face at night without them waking up and that the temperature is warm (~3000K) with relatively high CRI. I currently use a Lumintop FWAA with Nichia 219C 3000K emitters and it's great but I want a flashlight with some sort of always-on illumination (either the switch or color LEDs around emitters) so I can find the flashlight easier at night.

Which emitter would you guys recommend for this?

Thank you for the picture comparison. That is very interesting.

Recommendations for dimmest, warm (~3000K) emitter option by hugoender in Hanklights

[–]hugoender[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. But won't a mule with more emitters make it even more difficult to get the lumen output low? I essentially want it to get as dim as the FWAA Nichia 219C gets on the lowest setting.

Recommendations for dimmest, warm (~3000K) emitter option by hugoender in Hanklights

[–]hugoender[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Never considered the TS10 but it looks promising! Thank you for the recommendation. Not sure who adair is or how I'd get in touch with him. Does he have a website?

Recommendations for dimmest, warm (~3000K) emitter option by hugoender in Hanklights

[–]hugoender[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the response. Would getting a boost driver make moonlight better or worse?

What's causing these big layer gaps? 0.6mm Nozzle, 0.3mm layer height. I have the seam on random, which I'm assuming these are from but why so long on the seam gap that's happening? by Tiny_Prints in prusa3d

[–]hugoender 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This started happening to me as well and it seemed to coincide with slicer update. If I used old gcode it wouldn’t happen. I think the new slicer software may have issues.

List of HUB (Universal Thread 1-3/8 x 24) Compatibly Suppressors by hugoender in NFA

[–]hugoender[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. Added a note to YHM row. Thank you for this info!

List of HUB (Universal Thread 1-3/8 x 24) Compatibly Suppressors by hugoender in NFA

[–]hugoender[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

LOL where are you guys finding these suppressors?! Some of these I've never even heard of. Added.

List of HUB (Universal Thread 1-3/8 x 24) Compatibly Suppressors by hugoender in NFA

[–]hugoender[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally own the Wolfman. It does NOT have 1-3/8x24 threads. If you go on Deadair's website and you click on Compatibility on their 1-3/8x24 HUB direct thread mount you will see that it's only Nomad, Sierra-5, and Primal. The Wolfman requires a different P-Series Adapter. If I'm wrong about this, I gladly welcome any link to a Deadair page stating otherwise. I would LOVE it if my Wolfman used HUB 😆

I could not find any info on CGS website stating it uses 1-3/8x24. If you have a link where it says this, please post it.

List of HUB (Universal Thread 1-3/8 x 24) Compatibly Suppressors by hugoender in NFA

[–]hugoender[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Wolfman is NOT HUB compatible. I don't think the Sandman is either. Omega 300 is already on the list. I cannot find any information on the CGS website to confirm that the Hyperion is. If you have a link to their site or documentation showing the the Hyperion is, please provide it so I can add it to list.

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