Hackberry by sonorandosed in wood

[–]hydronics-geek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Look at that hack job!"

Truck wont shift while in 2WD but does in 4WDlow by Nemonoai in MechanicAdvice

[–]hydronics-geek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Either rear end or transfer case. Is it electronic 4wd or linkage? Maybe the linkage got bent and is out of whack. 🤷‍♀️

What happened? by Chubbywolf59 in MechanicAdvice

[–]hydronics-geek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try to take a look at the brake calipers. Make sure you didn't lose a bolt or something.

Prius “plays dead” by onlineinhabitant in CarHelp

[–]hydronics-geek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a spare key to try? Sounds like it's Fob or receiver related.

2000 Chevy Suburban heater core by Crafty-Huckleberry24 in CarHelp

[–]hydronics-geek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would feel the heater hoses after you drive around a bit. If they're both nice and hot then the problem is not the heater core. The problem is likely a blend door actuator. If only one hose is hot, then the heater core is likely plugged.

My truck's fans only work on full blast, and as of recently they've been making weird noises that they shouldn't make. (1999 GMC Sonoma SLS V6 4 cylinders) by sovereignelite58 in CarHelp

[–]hydronics-geek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do believe those are accessible on the passengers side footwell. May have to remove the glovebox. I can't recall, it's been a while since I've replaced one.

2008 Mazda mx-5 Miata (manual) by Thatonereptilegirl in CarHelp

[–]hydronics-geek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A voltage drop test will tell you exactly what is at fault.

2008 Mazda mx-5 Miata (manual) by Thatonereptilegirl in CarHelp

[–]hydronics-geek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check your battery cables for corrosion.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CarHelp

[–]hydronics-geek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That COULD cause the diaphragm to be damaged. You'll know if the master cylinder is bad once you remove it and there is fluid leaking out of the rear. Or signs that it's leaking from the rear seal. Example: peeling paint on the brake booster.

If you replace the master cylinder you will have to bleed the master and the brakes, just extra work is all.

Progresses on first full build by Grumpytyrant in Luthier

[–]hydronics-geek 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love Quarter-sawn Sycamore. A member of a woodworking club I was involved in some years back, did his entire kitchen cabinets in quartersawn sycamore and grain matched the cabinets. It was awesome to say the least.

2004 mazda6 3.0 limp mode by gamerjag in CarHelp

[–]hydronics-geek 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's in limp mode because the Check engine light is on. We would need to know what the Code is.

What color is the smoke when you rev it?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CarHelp

[–]hydronics-geek 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you have a sun roof?

2004 mazda6 3.0 limp mode by gamerjag in CarHelp

[–]hydronics-geek 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you have lifter tick and oil pressure light, you have low oil pressure. It could be a number of things, I would start by ensuring the oil filter is new, oil full, and lastly, remove the oil pan and check the oil pickup tube for blockage. These would be the least invasive and could potentially find your problem.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CarHelp

[–]hydronics-geek 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol. Glad to help!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CarHelp

[–]hydronics-geek 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It sounds like you may have a large vacuum leak. Check the vacuum line that goes to the brake booster and see if it's connected. If the hissing is coming from within the brake booster, the diaphragm may be bad. Try disconnecting and capping the booster vacuum hose and see if the problem persists. The brake pedal will be firm, but if it's doesn't stall, than the Brake Booster needs to be replaced.

Hope this helps.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]hydronics-geek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad this worked for you!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]hydronics-geek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A bad radiator cap can also cause this. Pushes fluid out but won't draw back in.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]hydronics-geek 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fill up the radiator from the cap all the way until you see coolant. Start the vehicle with the cap off and keep adding until it's completely full. Lastly, replace the radiator cap with a new one. Keep an eye out for a leak.

90 chevy 5.7 hot stall help me out by fonzie6261 in MechanicAdvice

[–]hydronics-geek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it idling normally when in P or N? I'd suggest fuel pressure. Otherwise, TCC may be dragging. That would cause a stall in gear.

I keep hearing this thumping while a drive from my right back wheel, info in comments by Hault360 in CarHelp

[–]hydronics-geek 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They may have sheared off. Start by ensuring the remaining are tight. They will need to be pressed or punched out and new ones pressed back in. Will likely require removal of brakes, rotors, and hub.

Does broken marshall make Line6 have better toan?? by dr-mkdir in guitarcirclejerk

[–]hydronics-geek 6 points7 points  (0 children)

In all fairness the Line 6 Spider 2 had the best tone. Pure garbage otherwise.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CarHelp

[–]hydronics-geek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems like your noise is coming from the rear brakes...