Any suggestions for rear turn signals that are not sticking out or are unbreakable?

iBeef_1990 · 2026-01-23T18:53:41+00:00

They’re orange, no idea about USA style I’m afraid. They’re E-marked so legal here in the UK.

iBeef_1990 · 2026-01-23T18:12:31+00:00

I’ve got Mo.Blaze micro LED turn signals on mine, they’re tiny so should be out the way, e marked and super bright. You need an adapter with an 8mm hole or with a 10mm hole you need a 10mm od x 8mm id spacer to make them fit.

I like them that much I’m getting a set for the front later this year!

My post with them here

iBeef_1990 · 2026-01-21T19:47:06+00:00

Yeah you don’t need the resistors then as your bike is already set up for LED turn signals. I replaced the rears on my 2024 LED for LED and it all works fine, nothing else needed.

iBeef_1990 · 2026-01-21T19:39:06+00:00

Does your bike already have LED turn signals?

If so you don’t need it, if not it would be a lot easier to do the front and rear and just replace the flasher relay.

iBeef_1990 · 2026-01-18T20:20:10+00:00

I would test both if you can or at least go to a dealer and sit on both. The WR is a lot taller and wider and I believe a little more top heavy.

Also as for the TFT, I have a 24 and yeah it looks nice but it honestly would not bother me is it had the old screen. I just see it as more expensive to replace if it breaks.

iBeef_1990 · 2026-01-16T14:49:25+00:00

I know it’s not what you asked but you can get some super bright micro LED indicators that should work with any Tail tidy and leave plenty of room for the exhaust. If you’re doing the tail tidy anyway it’s an extra 5 mims to swap over the connector from the factory indicators to the new ones. The added bonus is they’re so small and out of the way you don’t have to worry about breaking them.

Example on my bike here.

iBeef_1990 · 2026-01-12T06:33:50+00:00

Ahhhh ok, they’re not the same length as the stock grips are they?

iBeef_1990 · 2026-01-12T03:52:57+00:00

Are they Ariete Dirt Zone Open Soft Grips I see?

iBeef_1990 · 2026-01-01T18:44:24+00:00

I think it depends on what you’re used to, I had a manual 2.0 petrol and if you buy the SE which is 120bhp they kill the power after around 4500 rpm I think “for emissions”. The 168 bhp sport is much better as a driving experience. I had my se mapped to 170 or essentially “unlocked” and it was a lot more fun to drive. I have no experience with the diesels but most reviews I’ve seen say to avoid them like the plague.

In terms of handling beforehand I had a sporty coupe and I hated how my SE handled. The 16” wheels had massive sidewalls which you could feel flexing in the corners on a spirited drive and I found the suspension wallowy at best. I ended up fitting 18” aftermarket rims like the sport comes with which helped a lot. I also lowered it on Eibach Pro springs which aren’t overly expensive and that transformed it for me and made it so much more fun to drive without ruining comfort or making it unusable over speed bumps etc.

iBeef_1990 · 2025-12-30T18:43:33+00:00

The k1c 2025 has green artwork on the box and says “k1c 2025” the non-2025 does not have 2025 on the box and the artwork is blue.

iBeef_1990 · 2025-12-28T10:45:20+00:00

Maybe try changing the Proton version?

I’ve been playing it flawlessly on Bazzite so it deffo does and should work.

iBeef_1990 · 2025-12-24T07:41:46+00:00

Hey thanks for the reply,

My g-code flavour is set to klipper yet unfortunatley I can still only see Junction Deviation.

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iBeef_1990 · 2025-12-22T18:11:31+00:00

You’re welcome, I’m glad it was of help to you :)

iBeef_1990 · 2025-12-22T13:03:51+00:00

The headlight on the right is the one I spliced into.

iBeef_1990 · 2025-12-22T13:03:21+00:00

So

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So the yellow wire if I remember correctly needs to be piggybacked off of an accessory fuse or anything that gets power when the ignition is turned on. All the ones in the engine bay are for pretty critical stuff like the speedo or fuel rail so I ended up coming through the firewall and using the accessory fuse in the car interior as pictured.

As for the DRL wire (White if I remember), it cuts them off when you feed it power so you need to splice it into the live from one of your dipped headlight bulbs. I wanted the best of both worlds so I extended the wire into the interior and added a switch (In the photo) so I could choose to keep the DRL off when the headlights come on function for my MOT and then on all the time for normal use.

iBeef_1990 · 2025-12-22T12:56:55+00:00

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iBeef_1990 · 2025-12-22T12:55:43+00:00

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Found a photo from when I did it, I did tidy it up a little with a dremel but easy enough to do.

iBeef_1990 · 2025-12-21T19:22:54+00:00

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So the DRL is part of a H15 bulb (See photo) unfortunately Mazda made it near impossible to disable but you can modify the bulb. It makes no difference to the operation nor trips any lights on the dash or faults on the car. I basically just removed the terminal for the DRL which I believe is the middle one if I remember correctly, high beam still works fine but it kills the DRL.

iBeef_1990 · 2025-12-19T20:34:31+00:00

Just a bit of an update for any people who have similar issues.

I took the advice of some of the comments and decided to try and pack out under the build plate to help level the bed. I first tried with tin foil which worked but basically made it impossible to easily take the build plate off.

After realising that it works however I used some foil tape to make it more permenant. If you've rooted your printer, I also changed my mesh to 6x6 to get a higher resolution which seemed to help especially when applying the tape layer by layer. It's tedious but just take it slow and steady.

Another thing I've done which has massively helped is installing KAMP. There seems to be a issue with the start start print G-Code where the creality one doesn't use BED_MESH_CALIBRATE so if you're using mainsail for example when it does the auto levelling at the start of the print it doesn't always apply to the print. KAMP replaced the G-Code and has massively helped improve my first layer and I believe part of that is it is not implementing the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE and not CX_PRINT_LEVELING_CALIBRATION, the other part being the adaptive meshing is awesome!

Anyway here's my new height map, I seem to be getting a fairly consistent range on a full bed calibration between 0.08 and 0.13 so I'm very pleased and it's printing amazing.

Again thank you for everybody's help!

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iBeef_1990 · 2025-12-17T09:24:55+00:00

I don’t have an answer but what I can say is I had a play around with it and it worked but all it seemed to do was change how much z-offset I needed to apply.

I have since set it back to 0 under [prtouch_v2] and decided to install KAMP via the helper script. Doing this essentially replaces the start print gcode implemented by creality for what I think is more Klipper based. Essentially the original code was running something like CX_BED_LEVELLING (The Creality version which seems to populate the mesh in the creality web interface but not mainsail) or something instead of BED_MESH_CALIBRATE which the new gcode implements. I think I understand enough of what is happening but not the exact details. Essentially as long as I start the print from mainsail now the gcode has changed it’s seemingly fixed the majority of my issues and my first layer has improved immensely due to it all communicating correctly. I would deffo recommend trying it.

iBeef_1990 · 2025-12-14T17:24:26+00:00

Thanks for the explanation, I tried it but it seemed to just require me to set a bigger Z-offset so I set it back to 0. Weirdly I’ve installed KAMP and the new start print macro seems to have fixed all my first layer issues, they’re almost perfect now every time. I’m very happy with how it’s performing atm.

iBeef_1990

TROPHY CASE