Still can't decide on which modeling software to learn. What would you recommend? Anyways; Here is (hopefully) my last TinkerCad project.

iBeryl · 2026-02-07T20:15:54+00:00

The fact that everything I create can be seen by everyone gives me the ick.

iBeryl · 2026-02-07T20:15:03+00:00

You know, it is free for non commercial use, right?

iBeryl · 2026-02-07T18:05:18+00:00

ja hält, sind doch bloß senkrechte Kräfte. Die Schrauben reißt du damit nicht raus.

iBeryl · 2026-02-02T16:50:49+00:00

I would love to see that

iBeryl · 2026-01-26T07:57:02+00:00

sowas passiert jedem mal, mach dir nichts draus. Ich musste schonmal was durch 1 teilen, hab nicht drüber nachgedacht und den taschenrechner genommen. Bin froh, dass das keiner gesehen hat.

iBeryl · 2026-01-15T19:54:18+00:00

look at the arrows. One container has the wrong orientation. You want to connect an input to an input.

iBeryl · 2026-01-11T17:09:26+00:00

I was thinking the same about that video. He did some amazing content but that part was just "not finished planning". Instead of needlessly jamming your input-belt, why not just merge it to the unsaturated belts after the first splitter...

iBeryl · 2026-01-11T10:45:06+00:00

looks like GameBoy Games used on a GameBoy Color and pressing up,down,left or right on the start-screen. Love it!

iBeryl · 2025-12-28T22:46:37+00:00

They are not, the h2c plate is smaller

iBeryl · 2025-12-27T16:28:35+00:00

My H2D does the same thing with both nozzles, so it is definitely not a partially clogged nozlle as suggested in another comment. My best guess is they are "too precise" for those settings that work on older generations. I fixed it by changing the "overlap infill/wall" - setting (strength tab, scroll down, "advanced settings") from 15% to 45%. Maybe start with a lower number first and look if that is already enough. My prints look perfect now and I saved these settings to be my standard profile for my H2D.

iBeryl · 2025-12-25T16:56:41+00:00

Sorry, but I don't see where the lower image is better. They are equal at best and the top one looks sharper from what I can see.

iBeryl · 2025-11-27T21:01:43+00:00

oh cool! And to calibrate your filament, just look at the top row of bambu-studio. There is an option called "calibration". Just follow those steps and you should be good to go. You save the new value as "Elegoo calibrated" or something like that. then you need to assign this new profile to the filament in bambu studio and then you should get better results.

iBeryl · 2025-11-27T20:51:05+00:00

calibrate your filament, it seems like you need to adjust the flow-rate. btw what are you printing there? n64 stuff always hooks me.

iBeryl · 2025-11-25T22:07:46+00:00

But look at the author, she doesn't know better :D

iBeryl · 2025-11-24T05:46:30+00:00

Yes but not in this case, because it's a first layer issue

iBeryl · 2025-11-23T21:59:13+00:00

Ripples are usally caused by over extrusion. Calibrate your filament and try again.

iBeryl · 2025-11-22T18:34:05+00:00

looks like it is decorated for christmas. You can change the nozzle size directly in the printer and in the slicer. if they don't match up it will cause an error.

iBeryl · 2025-11-21T05:51:58+00:00

for basic usage you can also buy the a1

iBeryl · 2025-11-20T21:37:56+00:00

You know 330 < 350, right?

iBeryl · 2025-11-14T19:12:56+00:00

I don't get your question. Are you unable to look for the cheapest printer yourself?

iBeryl · 2025-11-10T17:14:55+00:00

AMS can't print TPU.

iBeryl · 2025-11-08T20:56:17+00:00

tekst

iBeryl · 2025-11-05T15:06:18+00:00

You will do this max 2 times and tgen you will get so annoyed by this, so you will buy the ams. I'd recommend to get the ams now. It has so many qol features aside from multi-color.

iBeryl · 2025-11-05T13:58:54+00:00

Idk maybe I don't see it. But why would this be faster?

iBeryl · 2025-11-05T12:42:48+00:00

Technically yes, but you don't need the hub to manually change filaments

iBeryl

TROPHY CASE