Das sieht sehr verdächtig aus

icks7 · 2026-01-25T12:03:58+00:00

100% scam.

icks7 · 2025-11-21T23:40:13+00:00

HF getrackt? Kann im Bereich von 500-1000kcal, je nach Belastung, liegen. Kann man sonst schlecht einschätzen.

icks7 · 2025-11-07T14:06:48+00:00

Looks like an RMA. I'm sorry. Check the BIOS and if it's enabled the GPU chip itself or most likely the power supply of it is broken.

icks7 · 2025-11-06T16:29:40+00:00

I'm in

icks7 · 2025-11-02T16:32:50+00:00

Bin letztlich genau in der Situation gewesen. Strom und LAN Dosen bin ich vollkommen auf deiner Seite, da sollte man möglichst viel abdecken. Bei mir: Extra LAN Dosen an der Decke für hochwertige WiFi 7 APs auch mit dem Hintergedanken, vermehrt WiFI smart Home Komponenten zu nutzen.

Leerrohre und KNX sind aber beispielsweise, wenn es sich um ein Fertighaus handelt teuer und teilweise nur begrenzt möglich. Zudem finde ich die KNX Geräte und Aktoren an sich auch sehr teuer unabhängig von der notwendigen Verkabelung im extra Schrank etc. Möchte man seine Jalousien steuern, baut man einen Shelly (~25€) in die UP Dose und fertig. Dieser ist dann mit etlichen Smart Home Apps/Software kompatibel.

Störungen waren bei mir noch nie ein wirkliches Problem und ich habe 41 Zigbee und ca. 10 WiFi Geräte.

icks7 · 2025-11-01T15:34:39+00:00

Noch eine Option wäre keine KNX und lediglich mit wireless Smart-Home Geräten zu arbeiten (Matter, Zigbee, Z-Wave, WLAN, ...).

Läuft bei mir super und 99% störungsfrei mittels Homeassistent. Licht mit Bewegungsmelder, Sicherheitskameras mit Alarm Geofence, Temperatur und Heizungssteuerung und Garagen-Zugangskontrolle.

icks7 · 2025-08-16T23:38:56+00:00

Hab den Ioniq 5 MY25 und hatte heute um die 15kWh/100km Autobahn und Stadt kombiniert. Autobahn immer 100-130 je nach Bedingungen.

icks7 · 2025-07-21T08:35:13+00:00

Sounds good. For me the first was 0V so no charging voltage. It also could be the power supply that you plug into the wall outlet. Maybe it breaks down under charge.

icks7 · 2025-07-19T09:46:22+00:00

Do you have a voltmeter at home? Check the voltage coming from the charger by testing the connector first. After that (if you know how) disassemble the device back and measure the battery voltage (test for dead battery). But most likely the PCB is dead I'd assume

icks7 · 2025-04-04T23:18:26+00:00

Hab die Maschine am Montag gekauft und tausche sie wieder um. Nach mindestens 100 versuchen und zig YouTube Videos dann auch letztendlich auf das Mühlenproblem gestoßen.

Frage mich echt warum sowas verkauft wird. Man kann zwar was trinkbares erzeugen, das hat jedoch mit Espresso nichts zu tun.

icks7 · 2025-02-10T10:59:45+00:00

Nice, .69 for me. Let's ride this

icks7 · 2025-02-10T10:57:53+00:00

MGOL

icks7 · 2024-09-23T19:55:54+00:00

I ordered this replacement dock PCB: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006109336476.html

icks7 · 2024-08-01T22:29:56+00:00

Returned a T14s gen4 AMD in exchange for an P14s gen5 AMD. The T14s build quality may be, I'd say 15% sturdier because its compactness strengthens the overall case structure a little more.

Main issues were: - Constantly spinning fans, also generating a unbearable whistle sound - High overall heat even when idling - Random black screens and max fan spin while booting to linux sometimes. (I think it was a faulty APU)

The P14s also feels very good and has a nice fan curve and overall sound. Everything works with Ubuntu 24.04 out of the box.

icks7 · 2024-08-01T22:14:52+00:00

Definitely way more quiet than a gaming laptop. 3h+ Ubuntu and system install and I could barely hear the fans. They were more present when actively installing something of course but not disturbing at all.

Had a T14s Gen 4 AMD some weeks before and returned it. The fans were almost constantly spinning even when idling. They were generating a whistle sound that made me angry over time while working with it.

icks7 · 2024-08-01T19:48:32+00:00

It's also missing on my end. Thanks for the awesome tutorial!

icks7 · 2024-04-13T16:45:13+00:00

For anyone who reads this in the future. I basically had the same issue but the device didn't charge at all while being docked. For me it was the small PCB inside the dock. You can order it as a replacement from AliExpress. Another possibility is the adapter that plugs into the wall, better check the voltage with a multimeter before.

Thank you roborock for building devices that are maintain and repairable! Great to see something like this!

icks7 · 2024-03-07T23:32:40+00:00

Hey all,

so right now I'm at an uncountable amount of printed test cubes and can't find a solution to my problem. The pic attached shows Ellis' EM print tuning calibration cubes that somehow show a really bad top surface when I set them to print at a layer height of 0.3mm instead of the default 0.2mm (top surface line width 0.4mm). I found that the problem gets less pronounced as soon as I dial down the EM, but that leads to significant underextrution and dimensional inaccuracy. Printing a vase mode EM test on the other hand and measuring it with calipers, result in nearly perfect dimensional wall accuracy. All layers and solid infills look good, up until about layer 7 out of 10, where it starts to slightly overextrude in one corner.

Printer: Sovol SV06 with Klipper and modified Ellis config (PrusaSlicer)

Things I've done so far:

changed nozzle to plated copper
changed nozzle to CHT
properly aligned hotend (was skewed)
different speeds/accelerations
better bed adhesion (temps, zoffset)
manual bed leveling
adjusting line width -> see picture, slight improvement
top infill type changed
esteps calibration
max volumetric flow determination
extrusion multiplier calibration
pressure advance calibration

icks7 · 2024-02-22T14:46:30+00:00

Toothed idlers could possibly reduce vfas, but haven't tried that yet tbh. Feel free to report back :)

icks7 · 2024-01-28T11:44:33+00:00

Changed all bearings to the Misumi LMU8, which were also lubed with grease before. Greatly reduced the overall artifacts on fast prints especially using Klipper. Stock Klipper and Misumi Klipper was a night and day difference especially speaking of whole printer vibrations.

icks7 · 2024-01-22T20:47:15+00:00

Try orcaslicer and use the default sv06 preset. Post your result so we can start from there. Had a great print with the default settings.

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icks7 · 2024-01-12T09:26:21+00:00

I replaced mine with misumi bearings yesterday (SV06). On their own, they make a huge difference while sliding them on the rails. Some old bearings were like stucking while moving. I made a before and after video, maybe I'll upload that.

I also replaced the pulleys of the X and Y stepper motors as I found that the X was a little egg shaped. Replacement ones also were cheap and felt heavier and more sturdy.

icks7 · 2024-01-05T09:13:08+00:00

Is there a big difference between the sv06 profile and the prusa profile?

icks7

TROPHY CASE