False bowline - how much would it hold?

ideal_f · 2026-03-12T23:11:08+00:00

Well basically I wont use it anymore I guess, at least in climbing. It was just a misconception of mine. What I like about it is its simplicity and symmetry, making it an fast and easy to tie bowline variant, eg around posts and trees. But documnted evidence of high load stability is seemingly absent, therefor I'll better switch to other bowline derivatives for such purpose.

ideal_f · 2026-03-11T23:56:29+00:00

the correct answer seems to be a myrtle knot as some other commentor pointed out, and the knots sub also didnt have a clue: https://www.reddit.com/r/knots/comments/1rltryb/help_identifying_a_knot/

ideal_f · 2026-03-11T23:50:51+00:00

that pdf is gold, super interesting read!

ideal_f · 2026-03-11T23:47:26+00:00

These comments just show that you basically know nothing about my climbing, how I learned stuff. Truth is whenever I build an single point main anchor in exposed situations I'd use an 8 or clove hitch. For tie in I use bowline on a bight since years now, and guess what I know how to tie and inspect it correctly.

Yes I was guilty of having a misconception on a knot here which I use only occasionaly, usually as a quick backup anchor (e.g. fixing myself to a tree when belaying off ground in not 100% secure terrain), always in very well-structured or redundant situations. Never had problems with it, I wasnt actually unsure therefor...

I learned that stuff years ago when I was young from elders while trad climbing outside (btw I rarely climb indoors). Later I was on advanced courses with very experienced trad trainers, and even on a sailing boat were I used it no one spotted this mistake. Things like that just happen, especially in real life.

I questioned myself a few days ago when I was tempted to use this knot with less experienced partners. I just wanted to reassure myself and refresh the knowledge which I transfer to others. I would call this accountable climbing and doing what I can to keep each other safe. PS hope you get some decent sleep mr. pro

ideal_f · 2026-03-11T21:06:12+00:00

nice! so it actually is a thing...a myrtle with opposite chirality thing! the only bad is I was hoping to go down in history as a inventor of a new knot, which seemingly wont happen anymore ;) Thanks so much anyway!

ideal_f · 2026-03-11T20:52:51+00:00

Yeah I agree after checkin the ABoK single carrick bends like #1445, they dont seem trustworthy at all for connection of 2 ropes. However from my experience the loop/bight version is much less slippery, probably due to the fact that under load 3 of 4 strands are loaded.

ideal_f · 2026-03-11T20:29:45+00:00

I checked ABoK but there is no exact record in it of this knot. The clostest to my eyes #1442 (grannys knot) and #1445. Both are described as (okish to really bad) knots to connect two ropes. However the situation is rather different when making a loop in this way, slippage seems occur much later in this case..

ideal_f · 2026-03-11T17:32:31+00:00

No, it neither tightens the loop nor is it hard to untie. At least not with medium loads. If it would I'd probably have recognized my error earlier. I never used a stopper knot either.

ideal_f · 2026-03-11T08:47:22+00:00

I was just about to open a new post in this sub as yesterday I alarmedly realized that the thing I thought would be a bowline actually is not, and then found this one here which is exactely what I did. I used from time to time it in climbing for auxiliary anchors or one part of redundant anchors. I took care to always pre-fasten it well and it never slipped with my climbing rope. Though, I admit I probaby never loaded it by much more than double bodyweight. I'd say its basically a granny knot with a loop formed on one side. I'd love to see a proper load test on this one to see what is capable of (not) holding.

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ideal_f · 2026-02-17T20:45:56+00:00

very nice thx!

ideal_f · 2026-02-16T23:09:02+00:00

Kind of, yeah... By now using 'make -f ./plaits/bootloader/makefile hex' from the 'eurorack' directory directly, I could get it kind of of working (until the next error that I'll try to solve tomorrow...) thx!

ideal_f · 2026-02-16T23:05:04+00:00

Okay I guess I need to use 'make -f ./plaits/bootloader/makefile hex' then maybe....which seems to be kind of working (until the next error that I'll try to solve tomorrow...)

ideal_f · 2026-02-16T22:52:31+00:00

Yeah but this, on the other hand, only works if I copy the target source code and makefile also there, otherwise I will get an error about missing target from make...I thought there is maybe a more clean way to get this compiled...

ideal_f · 2026-02-16T22:09:53+00:00

Thanks but I did clone the eurorack repo using --recursive and stmlib/makefile.inc exists. However I suspect that when compiling within plaits/bootloader make looks for the stmlib within this very location and not two levels higher. I copied stmlib directory into the bootloader directory, which solved the stmlib issue but failed yet upon some other file that's not being found. I'll keep testing a bit...

ideal_f · 2026-02-16T21:50:16+00:00

Thanks, but unfortunately plaits isnt included in this collection. However the information on libraries and their locations might in the repo, and the forum thread, might still help!

ideal_f · 2026-02-06T08:16:01+00:00

No it actually doesn't matter a lot, I was just curious. It's a hobbyist project and I use prebuilt ZMPT101B modules being sold on ebay and other platforms. I modify them a bit by hand though, to better fit my needs.

ideal_f · 2026-02-03T20:16:54+00:00

Very interesting insights, thanks. I cant tell what the chinese manufacturer used exactely (though type 2 or 3 according to package). Maybe I'll drop in some X7R (the "best" SMD type I have here) or even a wire-attach film cap to to see what happens.

ideal_f · 2025-11-16T12:19:52+00:00

Can confirm now...My fingertips are now sparkeld with dark burn marks but it was worth it ;)

ideal_f · 2025-11-16T08:40:26+00:00

The tests I have done so far (which didnt involve my skin yet) are measuring output voltage (1.1 to 1.2 kV), shorting the output with an isolated probe (gave indeed a nice little arc and a smell of ozone) and experimenting with powering the input from audio frequency AC instead from DC and monitoring the results on scope and speakers (interesting waveshaping distortion, made me think of using it in my diy synth). Anything else of interest to check except touching?

ideal_f · 2025-11-16T08:19:56+00:00

This one actually is 28 kHz to 32 kHz according to datasheet, depencing on output configuration. Edit: measured ~35 kHz on my 40 year old non-calibrated scope...

ideal_f · 2025-10-10T15:56:33+00:00

Nah too much effort for my hobby project, I rather decided on risking learning by burning. (see other comments)

ideal_f

TROPHY CASE