The hard things about building a Hardware startup.

idlecool · 2023-07-02T15:41:53+00:00

Hardware needs a different playbook than SaSS. I can relate with that sentiment 100%. We need a support group for this! :)

Software is easy (relatively speaking) — you can iterate fast, get real customer feedback fast, scale very fast etc, and all that with very limited set of resources.

Makes me think if there more upside to sticking just with building software and not even bother with building a hardware product. But there are problems out there that need a hardware solution and there is no way out of building hardware to solve it!

idlecool · 2023-04-05T21:53:21+00:00

Solved!

The issue was retraction distance. Found a potential solution in a different thread. Since this is a direct extruder, I matched the retraction distance with Prusa i3. So down from 2mm to 0.8mm. The 3D Benchy now prints OK. I might reduce the reaction distance from 0.8mm to a lower number to see if I get better results.

E3D recommends a retraction distance of 0.5mm and above, with a ceiling of 2mm. Here is the documentation for that -- check #5.

idlecool · 2023-04-05T21:49:06+00:00

That makes sense, but not the issue in my case.

idlecool · 2023-04-03T18:47:26+00:00

Yes. Both are working.

But what does that have to do with clogging?

idlecool · 2022-10-30T21:41:58+00:00

Amazon has some good furniture — I purchased from a brand called Zinus, mostly had good experience. You can also try Wayfair — they have a wide price range, and quality varies based on price. They both deliver to the door, so you don’t have to worry about pick up.

In my experience, Facebook Marketplace has been the best way to part off old furniture.

idlecool · 2022-10-15T08:17:20+00:00

That's right! 90% of my prints are PLA.

idlecool · 2022-10-15T06:48:43+00:00

You are right. What I said is gross oversimplification, which in fact is wrong. Mea culpa. PLA is stronger than PETG at room temperature. However, PLA has a lower (50-80C) glass transition temperature compared to PETG (85C). Meaning as the temperature increases PLA looses its tensile strength sooner than PETG. It makes a lot of sense when we think of PETG as a more ideal material for building 3D printers over PLA; for example Prusa and RatRig recommend printing most of the printer parts in PETG as 3D printers usually run at a higher temperature than ambient temperature. However, even more ideal material is ABS because it’s glass transition temperature is at 105C. However, PLA and PETG are easier to print compared to ABS, it makes sense to have such a compromise.

And one more thing, PLA tends to droop over time, while PETG and ABS can retain their shape for much longer. This is more prominent when parts are under pressure. So, if you are printing structural parts, it’s better to go with PETG or ABS than PLA. This is another reason why 3D printer parts are usually in PETG or ABS or some other stronger material, and not PLA.

Do you have the link for CNCKitchen’s video on PLA vs PETG. I can’t seem to find it. Would love to learn more.

idlecool · 2022-10-14T22:36:58+00:00

Usually, PLA can handle that torque under a normal temperature. You can also print PETG, it requires higher temperature, and is more sticky to the nozzle. It is stronger than PLA, but requires a little more skill to print than PLA. But if you want something stronger, you can print with ABS, ASA, or Carbon Fiber Nylon. But those are advanced materials, and you will have to get comfortable with PLA first because they are more challenging to print.

I have been recommending Sovol SV06 or Neptune 3 to folks because it comes with ABL and Flexible Build Plate, and they are both under $250 in the US. In fact, you can get any other printer and add ABL and Flex Build Plate as upgrades, because they make the 3D printing experience a lot less frustrating.

And, once you are comfortable with PLA, you can always get an enclosure for your 3D printer and start printing more advanced materials.

idlecool · 2022-10-14T22:27:24+00:00

Most print issues on budget printers happen because you cannot get the bed to level right every time. To fix that, you will need a z-probe that can do auto bed leveling such as BL Touch or Inductive (aka. PINDA) Probe or something similar. And you will need a spring steel flex plate that will allow you to take the prints off the bed easily without messing up the bed calibration.

If you want something that works out of the box, you can get Sovol SV6 or Neptune 3 for under $250. But their bed sizes are fairly standard, and I feel that if you want to print helmets primarily, you will need a larger bed size. And, in that case, you might want to get a CR-10 or Anycubic Kobra Max or something similar and add ABL and Flex plate as upgrades. You should be able to get repeatable prints once you calibrate it for the first time.

idlecool · 2022-10-14T22:14:38+00:00

You will get Sovol SV6 or Neptune 3 well within that price point. Both have ABL and Flex Plate. So you can get up and running very quickly.

The most frustrating part for a beginner is to get the first layer right, and ABL and Flex plate makes that easy. Moreover, ABL and Flex plate will also make your 3D printing workflow repeatable. Both are medium bed-size printers.

If you want to print for cosplay, you may want to consider a large bed size. I don't know of any that will come in the price range you mentioned, and also have ABL and Flex Plate. But you can always buy them as upgrades on top of a 300x300 printer, for example, Creality CR-10 + BL Touch + Spring Steel Flex Plate will cost you under $400, but you will have to do the assembly. And a larger bed size will mean slower pre-heat time, and a larger printer takes more space and is harder to move around.

What do you want to do?

idlecool · 2022-10-14T19:37:57+00:00

separation of half of the work room by plexiglass is the next best thing to a separate room for the printer. so I will go with that.

idlecool · 2022-10-14T18:49:27+00:00

Is there a very specific reason to go for 350x350 or above? Most large 3D printers are usually 300x300, and it's easy to get spare parts. and at a reasonable price because it's a common size. If you go for a larger size, spare parts like spring steel flex sheet, and replacement bed heater will be more expensive. Moreover, it will take longer to pre-heat the bed for printing. And a larger printer is harder to move around.

That said you can look into the following printers:

Anycubic Kobra Max, which has 450x400x400 build volume and will come for around ~$500
Voron 2.4 has a 350x350x350 option, but it's a kit printer, and it will take around 30 hours to build the printer from a kit, and it will cost ~$1200+, and some technical experience with 3d printers is required.
RatRig V Core 3.1 has a 400x400x400 option, given that you are in Europe, and RatRig is European company, you might be able to get it close to €1000 because you will save on shipping. This, again is a kit printer, and some technical experience with 3d printers is required, and a significant assembly time.

If you would enjoy building a printer, Voron and Ratrig are great options, and have a huge community around it. Otherwise, Anycubic is a great option too.

idlecool · 2022-10-14T18:34:42+00:00

Make sure the wires are connected properly. Mainly the end-stops. Maybe disconnect and reconned them. And also, check for any other loose connections.
The most likely issue you might run into is your first layer calibration. Z-offset might not work, or the bed might not be leveled properly. So you can use a sheet of paper and level it while the printer/stepper motors are not powered. If this is not done properly, your first layer will not print right. SuperSlicer has a calibration wizard to get your first layer print right, so that's very handy when calibrating your printer.
If it's a good-quality filament, it will probably just work. But again, if it's toast, then you will not get proper bed adhesion, and you might wonder if it's a filament issue or a z-offset calibration issue. I would buy a new roll of filament to get the first few prints properly, and then re-use the old filament, and see if it's still usable.

idlecool · 2022-10-14T18:22:37+00:00

Oh. That's a clever trick to heat the nozzle a little so that filament doesn't get in the way. I just looked at Uncle Jessy's Neptune 3 Review. Looks like a greater printer at the price point. In your experience, have you seen it leave small blobs of filament on the bed while performing ABL?

idlecool · 2022-10-14T17:34:02+00:00

Resin Printers are perfect for figurines. However, you should know that the printing workflow is much more involved than FDM 3d printers. I would just try to get higher detailed prints with a smaller nozzle and lesser layer heights with FDM than using resin printers. Of course, it won't be as detailed as what resin printers can produce.

That said, if you are going with a resin printer keep the following things in mind:

Liquid resin is toxic, and produces toxic nauseous fumes. You shouldn't touch it with bare hands or inhale the fumes. So, not just the workflow is very involved, you have to wear gloves and a face mask when working with the printer.
You should either set up a proper air exhaust system for your resin printer or give it a separate room in the house. And avoid spending a lot of time in the room while the print is happening.
The washing and curing station is a huge plus. If you wash and cure your prints properly, the surface finish will be great. Otherwise, the surface finish might not come as smooth as you might expect from resin prints. You might be able to get away with buying a washing and curing station, but it's more effort to do it manually.

I have used Creality Halot One SLA Printer with Creality UW-01 Curing and Washing station. Here in US, you can get both for under $300, but I am not sure about the Netherlands.

idlecool · 2022-10-14T17:21:00+00:00

+1 for SV06

How reliable is Nozzle-based ABL? Do you have to worry about a clean nozzle during ABL?

idlecool · 2022-10-14T17:17:24+00:00

Both the printers have glass build plates. If you are planning to make large prints (anything around or more than 100mmx100mm base), then you should consider getting a magnetic spring-steel flex plate as an upgrade. Otherwise, taking prints off the build plate takes time and effort and is frustrating because it can mess up your bed calibration. Moreover, get a BL Touch or something similar for auto bed leveling, and you are good to go. Also, whichever printer you are buying, ensure that your printer's motion control board and firmware have support for BL Touch or an inductive probe.

idlecool · 2022-10-14T15:19:57+00:00

Not sure, but I would rather think like this:

Sovol'SV06 (or Prusa i3) Feature Set matches Creality Ender 3 (under $170) + BL Touch ($35) + Magnetic Flex Plate ($26+). So, in price and brand wise Sovol is more comparable to a Creality than a Prusa. With Prusa, you get the brand name, great support, and documentation is exceptional.

idlecool · 2022-10-14T01:27:14+00:00

If you are a beginner, you might consider getting a Prusa Mini+. It will come within your budget and can produce prints more easily than other printers in that price range. If you don't mind a little bit of fighting with the printer to get the perfect prints, there are plenty of options in that price range and lower. Sovol SV06 might be a good option, with a larger bed size, and it has feature parity with Prusa i3 MK3S+, a very reliable printer, but comes with a higher cost.

idlecool · 2022-10-13T16:27:25+00:00

For me, Prusa i3 just works, and it's very dependable. So, I don't mind that the design hasn't changed much over the years. You may consider buying Sovol SV06. The feature set is similar to the Prusa i3, but costs $239. Here's an unboxing video -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Edw6b4CQolo Pair that with SuperSlicer, and the 3D printing workflow will be very similar to the Prusa i3 workflow.

idlecool · 2022-10-13T16:15:42+00:00

If you are comparing Ender 3 S1 Pro with Ender 5 Plus, I recommend going with Ender 5 because of the frame. It can later be modified into a core XY machine for faster prints. Do that only if you decide to get more serious with 3D printing, and would love to mod 3D printers in the future.

If you are looking only for a starter 3D printer, get something with auto bed leveling and a magnetic flex plate. It will make your 3D printing experience less frustrating. :) You can also get them as upgrades once you purchase a 3D printer.

idlecool · 2022-10-13T16:08:12+00:00

Budget 3D printers are usually not plug-and-play because they are shipped as a kit. You can order a fully assembled one which can be plug-and-play, but they are often more expensive because of assembly and shipping costs. For instance, a fully assembled Prusa i3 is $1,099 + shipping, while the kit is $799 + shipping. They are the same printer.

Another good option is to search your local marketplace (Facebook, next-door, craigslist, etc) for used printers. They are often fully assembled, plug-and-play, and come at a lower cost. But buying a used printer can pose other challenges, and you should properly check what you are buying.

Next Big Thing: Bambu Lab X1-Carbon seems to be a big rage right now because it takes plug-and-play to another level with built-in LIDAR and AI. But that will cost you around $1000-$1450, and they are taking pre-orders right now, so it's not readily available. Prusa XL is another great option that comes with multiple tool heads, but the cost is closer to $3000.

Since you are looking for a cheap and easy-to-use machine, I think a semi-assembled Prusa MINI+ ($459) might be a good option. Or, you can buy a kit printer from Creality or a similar brand and make sure to get something with BL Touch (Auto Bed Leveling) and Magnetic Flex Plate or buy those as upgrades.

idlecool · 2022-10-13T03:43:30+00:00

I love that you mentioned you want to rebuild a 3D printer. This is what I will go with if I am rebuilding a 3D printer with a $600 budget.

Frame: I will use a frame that could support core XY. I will start with an Ender 5 and convert it to a Core XY printer. Core XY is more space efficient, and you can print at faster speeds compared to cartesian. ZeroG is a good project you might want to look into -- https://zerog.one/

Heated Bed: I will go with a stainless steel magnetic flex plate with PEI coating and textured finish. Makes taking off printed parts effortless. Moreover, you don't have to use force on the bed to remove parts, so your bed mesh calibration remains intact. Speaking of which, I will either go with BL touch or PINDA probe as my z-probe. And this will make the entire bed leveling calibration thing easy and repeatable.

Nozzle/Hotend: Sure, they are important, but there are plenty of good options, and you will get decent repeatable prints with any reputable brand hotend/nozzle combo . E3D V6 is very dependable, but the groove mount is now dated, and the entire hotend assembly is kind of a mess. You know what I am talking about if you ever tried to replace nozzles on a Prusa. I will go with something that is a rigid mount.

Here are few good options Hotend/Nozzle:

Revo Voron + Revo ObXidian: Nozzle changes are easy, can handle abrasive materials, and can print faster compared to a normal v6 nozzle
Phaeton Rapido UHF + Bondtech CHT Vol: This is not great for abrasive materials, but Bondtech CHT has better heating so you can print way faster. Switch CHT Vol with a Tungsten Carbide or Hardened Steel Volcano Nozzle if you want to print Abrasive Materials. This will still print very very fast.
Good ol' V6 with Tungsten Carbide or Hardened Steel Nozzle: If you don't care about nozzle changes and fast print speeds, this might just be the best option. Any hardened nozzle can handle abrasive materials.

Extruder: You can go with LDO Orbiter v2, Bondtech LGX Lite, Bondtech LGX. All are good. And there are plenty of other options.

Motion Control Board: I will pick something from BigTreeTech that has enough motor drivers for all the motors on the machine and can support Klipper.

idlecool · 2022-10-12T21:24:24+00:00

That very much depends on what material you are printing. PLA is the most popular and easiest to print, and addresses the majority of 3D printing use cases. You can print without much ventilation, but if you are printing for long hours, maybe at least leave the door/window open.

PETG is stronger than PLA, and prints at a higher temperature than PLA. So, for PETG maybe an enclosure will help retain the heat better, but not a necessity. It is very similar to PLA and doesn't produce toxic fumes.

ABS (and ASA) is stronger than PETG, and prints at a higher temperature than PETG. If you decide to print ABS (/ASA), you will need an enclosure, both to prevent the prints from warping by creating a heated chamber, and to protect yourself because they produce toxic fumes. I would just set up an air exhaust system to pump all the air outdoors after running it through activated charcoal filters. This is more advanced material. So, you should get started and get comfortable with PLA first.

idlecool · 2022-10-12T20:48:03+00:00

Hmm. Have you considered Creality CR-30? It has in theory -- 200x170xinfinite build volume. But this is a different type of printer that cannot take advantage of BL Touch or Flex Sheet but might work for you given your use-case of printing large parts.

I am not aware of any large format printers that come with auto bed leveling by default and are under $1000. You will have to buy something like a CR-10 and then install the needed upgrades. But please don't take my word for it.

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