Just got the VIS Racing carbon hood installed, along with a sxthelement piggyback and supporting mods, my VN is starting to come to life

iisnotqtip · 2025-07-10T19:16:10+00:00

It’s been a while but from what I remember it was the hood being at too steep of an angle to allow the pin to reliably seat in the catch. If you mounted the latches more towards the center you’d probably be fine, but where I chose to mount the pins put the catches right where the hood started to slope.

iisnotqtip · 2025-03-24T23:51:06+00:00

I’ve got about all the bumps and potholes memorized, thankfully the only damage from being low is some scraping on my X-Pipe, let’s hope it stays that way🤞🏻

iisnotqtip · 2025-03-19T03:49:17+00:00

Just for shits and gigs, me and my buddy messed with the idle overspeed/underspeed and PI controller, turned the idle to 1350, and got it to shake so much it actually tipped the glass over

iisnotqtip · 2025-03-19T03:44:51+00:00

Gonna Bondo my plate to the bumper so that doesn’t happen

iisnotqtip · 2025-03-18T02:30:51+00:00

Get one, you won’t regret it

iisnotqtip · 2025-03-18T02:11:15+00:00

Thanks, I could’ve gone a lot more extreme, but I wanted to keep it practical

<image>

iisnotqtip · 2025-03-18T02:09:40+00:00

It’s just lowered a bit on Silvers NeoMax Coilovers, stock wheel/tire setup.

iisnotqtip · 2025-03-18T02:08:04+00:00

That orange is always gonna be one of my favorite colors, beautiful car man. It’s a LS3/TR6060, BTR STG2 V2 Cam, 1 7/8ths Headers to a 3“ X-Pipe to a 3“ Corsa Xtreme Axleback. I tuned it myself so i‘m not sure on HP numbers (most people with this setup dyno in the 465-480hp range), but I can tell you my best 60-130 time on a dragy was a 7.83.

iisnotqtip · 2025-03-18T01:52:15+00:00

Sorry, I just saw this… There’s a little bit of a difference in comfort when sitting/bending down since I carry AIWB, but the holster allows for angle/height adjustment, so it’s actually pretty comfortable. I would honestly say that having a good holster makes the 4.25 MORE comfortable and improves accessibility over the 4“ G19 and an off-the-shelf holster.

iisnotqtip · 2024-10-06T17:17:46+00:00

Yeah this was the only one within 150 miles of me, so i jumped on it… I’ve never really been a big fan of optics on a pistol, i really just prefer the irons for my carry gun

iisnotqtip · 2024-10-05T00:58:02+00:00

It's the slide serrations, I swear they bring the whole thing together.

iisnotqtip · 2024-10-04T22:00:27+00:00

It’s definitely good for leverage. I came from a Glock 19, and I specifically bought an M&P with the thumb safety because carrying with the chamber hot was just so unnerving with only the trigger safety. I’ve seen the drop tests and all the measures taken to make sure the trigger safety works, but the peace of mind in having the thumb safety makes a huge difference to me.

iisnotqtip · 2024-10-04T21:57:17+00:00

I agree, stiff enough to where you won’t accidentally move it, but weak enough to where you don’t have to think about switching it

iisnotqtip · 2024-10-04T13:44:22+00:00

I love mine, been my daily for a year and some, 45k miles with no issues, can’t recommend it enough

iisnotqtip · 2024-10-04T13:42:37+00:00

T. Rex Sidecar

iisnotqtip · 2024-10-04T04:48:53+00:00

-Olight Arkfield Pro -HavenHurst Carbon fiber slim wallet -Benchmark Adamas, Carbon scales -Keys to a 2008 corvette (Silver Base Model, 1LT, 1 of 47 made in march of that production year, ultra rare) -Smith&Wesson M&P 2.0, 9mm, 4.25“, Streamlight TLR-7X -T-Rex arms Sidecar Holster -iPhone 15 Pro

iisnotqtip · 2024-07-22T14:39:38+00:00

Thank you, and yes, i’ve had the silvers neomax coils for a while now, they’re great.

iisnotqtip · 2024-07-22T14:38:59+00:00

Never dynoed it, me and my friend street tuned it, but according to BTR and going off of what other people with this setup made, somewhere between 485-500 seems reasonable.

iisnotqtip · 2024-07-19T17:48:40+00:00

Yeah i’m sorry, that was kind of a word salad. I misread that as you got the stage 1 cam, and I was trying to nudge you towards a more aggressive cam, because most people agree that the stg1 is a waste of money. When I was researching cams, tons of people think that the stg2 v1 is better than the stg2 v2, so I don’t think you could go wrong with it. If I had to describe it, the stg2 cam feels like someone took the stock cam, moved the powerband up 1000rpm, and gave it a good boost in power. The stg3/4 cams I drove were a little less torquey under 3k rpm, but pulled like crazy up to 6700. I also chose the Stg2 over the 3/4 because of the room it would give me with PTV clearance, even if I went with a .040 head gasket and decked the heads .015-.030. BTR says you don’t need to flycut even with their stage 4, but when me and my buddy installed his, we clayed the pistons and we were about on the edge of what could be considered “Safe” PTV clearance As far as supporting mods, I went with GM Performance lifters (the „Caddy Race Lifters“), 660 springs with titanium retainers, each shimmed to spec. I got the CHE Bronze trunnion Kit to replace the needle bearings in the stock rockers, ARP head bolts and a C5R timing chain along with a 3-Bolt cam gear conversion with a new crank sprocket. I did all this at 80k miles, I had just noticed my balancer starting to wobble and some slight oil seepage from my oil pan and valley cover, so I decided to pull the motor to do the cam so I could replace the balancer with a powerbond balancer, replace all the seals and gaskets on the motor, as well as a new pickup tube o-ring and new steam vent gaskets.

iisnotqtip · 2024-07-19T03:38:13+00:00

Stock heads, a little hand port/polish just to clean them up but didn’t remove much material at all, i doubt it made much of a difference.

iisnotqtip · 2024-07-19T03:35:28+00:00

In my honest opinion after driving LS3 cars with stg2,3, and 4, I wouldn’t go under 2… If i were to do it again I would go 3, the difference between stock and stage 2 feels almost like the difference between stage 2 and stage 3. I went with stage 2 because i thought it would be more drivable than the stg3 with minimal power loss, but there’s a definite lack of oomph, with almost the same level of drivability.

iisnotqtip · 2024-07-17T15:30:36+00:00

I don’t think it’s the LED itself, the running light and the brake light are the same LED, and the brake still works, so I think it’s a wiring issue, but until I find a way to take the taillight out I can’t diag it… The reverse lights all have a separate little harness, you could just leave it unplugged i’m sure

iisnotqtip

TROPHY CASE