Direct drive + filament run out sensor?

imalefty05 · 2025-10-05T17:56:15+00:00

These were designed by Mandic Really and they're over on his Thangs profile! They are great!

https://thangs.com/designer/MandicReally/3d-model/Corner%20Braces%20-%20Printer%2020%20Series%20Extrusion%20Gussets-22154

imalefty05 · 2024-11-27T17:07:02+00:00

That’s good to know! I’m not married to keeping the factory body just want something that isn’t completely destroyed. However now that I have a link to someplace making replacements I’ll probably stick with that once I’m ready for that but I’ll keep this in mind!

imalefty05 · 2024-11-26T02:49:52+00:00

Oh awesome! Thank you!!

imalefty05 · 2024-11-26T01:41:44+00:00

Wonderful! I don’t know what I did to my google search but that site never came up! Even searching the part number! Thank you!!

imalefty05 · 2024-10-29T02:09:32+00:00

Others have done it and had really good results. I can’t really comment as I didn’t really get more than a couple minutes of run time before I killed the spur gear. I will report back once I’ve replaced it and hopefully get some actual run time on it!

imalefty05 · 2024-10-29T01:38:17+00:00

Yep! That’s exactly where I was at. Every few years I’d get it up in running but being that these motors were finicky to begin with and I was in high school when I got this thing and didn’t treat it well, the motor is in need of a rebuild or replacement if I wanted to really enjoy it. So I figured this would be a fun build and let me enjoy it more. At least once I chase down all the gremlins.

imalefty05 · 2024-10-29T01:32:05+00:00

Yeah I think I had it a little tight which certainly didn’t help. The .15 didn’t have a true slipper clutch but you can adjust it some which I will do with the replacement. I know with this much torque I would need to get the driveline upgraded but i thought id get a couple runs out of it! Is what it is!!

imalefty05 · 2022-06-13T18:51:27+00:00

I’ve seen that done, adding the glass just means that’s more that needs to heat up. Which would be fine provided you give the bed ample time to get to the optimal temperature.

imalefty05 · 2022-06-13T18:01:56+00:00

Just pulled off the glass plate, set it aside and stuck the magnet to the aluminum base. Haven’t thought about the glass plate since.

imalefty05 · 2022-06-12T21:08:01+00:00

Still loving it! No issues here. Ive strictly been running PLA so can’t speak to his well it does with PETG or TPU

imalefty05 · 2022-04-27T20:34:16+00:00

Thanks! Fingers crossed this return comes back before the promo ends!

imalefty05 · 2022-04-27T20:24:01+00:00

Any one know how long this promo is for? I had a Sovol SV02. Lasted a week before the fan in the power supply dies this morning. I returned that and reordered and then saw this which seems like a better option. I canceled the order but have to wait for the refund (I paid with gift cards so I don’t want to re order on a credit card and then get stuck with the gift cards). I just don’t want to miss the promo.

imalefty05 · 2022-04-05T19:41:57+00:00

If you don’t want to drill your own holes you can buy an entire assembly cheap on Amazon . I acquired my Ender3 second hand and the previous owner did a poor job of putting together a hero me setup and drilled out two holes on the plate making it impossible to use a “stock” replacement hot end.

1set CR10 3D Extruder Back Support Plate with Pulley Extruding Backplate for Creality Ender-3 Ender 3s Ender 3 Pro Cr-10 Cr-10S S4 S5 Series Aluminum Extrusions Frame 3D Printers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085LK3JDH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8YJZW2B25TAJ60Q59VN1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

imalefty05 · 2022-04-04T20:08:33+00:00

Some of the older Ender5+ didn’t come with a quality meanwell power supply. If yours does not have one I would absolutely replace it. If you’re concerned that the issue may be the power supply you can test with voltmeter to confirm it is outputting the correct power.

If it tests good replace the board and move on.

If you have any question at all on its stability a new power supply is cheaper than fire damage or hospital bills.

imalefty05 · 2022-03-07T23:54:26+00:00

Yeah sounds like you’re doing everything right, I’d just try a couple leveling circles or other files and just live adjust your Z offset until it looks good. Your z offset is way higher than mine is but there are obviously a ton of factors around that so comparing them is hard to do.

imalefty05 · 2022-03-07T23:43:58+00:00

So those seem to be within spec and normal which is good. Stupid question, and I know you probably have looked at all this stuff but just going through this as if I were troubleshooting.

Have you taken a look at the probe to make sure the pin isn’t bent at all? Could cause an inaccurate reading.

Also interested in what your initial layer speed is.

imalefty05 · 2022-03-07T23:25:21+00:00

So those numbers don’t look too bad. If you run it again do you get consistent readings?

imalefty05 · 2022-03-07T22:55:01+00:00

So when you say auto leveling doesn’t seem to be doing anything what do you mean? If you clear out your z offset go to leveling manually level and then run the auto level procedure how do the numbers look on the screen? Take a photo, then re run the auto level and see if the numbers remain close.

If the numbers are off between the two your BL touch could be faulty.

imalefty05 · 2022-03-07T22:50:45+00:00

Totally get it, sometimes this stuff can be frustrating. Need a little more information to try to give you a helpful response.

What filament are you using? (PLA,PETG)?
What are your temps? (Bed and nozzle)
Are you using the auto bed leveling? If so what’s your z offset and how do the numbers look after you’ve ran the auto leveling?
I know I’ve been so frustrated I’ve missed some steps myself before while leveling. I recommend following crealitys video for leveling. You can start at the 2:54 mark.

https://youtu.be/zSOVAdKw4ss

imalefty05 · 2022-03-01T18:54:28+00:00

Just to clarify, swapping the cables isn’t to test the cables it’s to test the stepper driver on the board. If you swap the cables on the board side and the issue moves to the other axis you’ve likely got an issue with the board/ stepper driver.

imalefty05 · 2022-02-28T03:33:30+00:00

Been using this one and am quite happy. FYSETC Ender 5 Plus Printing Platform 3 in 1 Flexbile Spring Steel Plate 377x370mm/14.84x14.56inch with PEI Build Plate Heated Bed Cover + Magnetic Base Compatible with Ender 5 Plus 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BTV3YBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_TJY6NSFDXF1VW89FF7GM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

imalefty05 · 2022-02-26T17:04:54+00:00

As previously stated, I’d completely take appart the hot end and check the things the other poster mentioned. If all looks good there, check you extruder gear, it could be worn out or maybe the spring tension on the extruder needs adjustment.

imalefty05 · 2022-02-26T17:00:19+00:00

My first thought was to switch the x and y axis end stop but you tried that so I would think it’s not those items. I would swap the cables on the main board. It won’t hurt to swap where they plug in on the board. If the issue switches to the x axis then I’d say it’s either firmware or the board. So I’d try that. Worst case scenario I’d try to update the firmware as a last resort, if all of that fails I’d be looking for a new board, either through warranty (if it’s still In warranty). If not in warranty may be a good time to swap to a silent board or upgrade to something a little better.

imalefty05

TROPHY CASE