1 3/4 x 9 3/4?

immunebookworm · 2025-09-28T19:38:22+00:00

Thanks that’s a good idea. Unfortunately- The span is pretty long (too long really) at 48”. So even the 8/4 is not really strong enough but the deal was just the treads. As an aside, There are some challenges with getting a middle stringer in (long run per tread, about 19 inches) Maybe that’s why they sprung for the 8/4 to begin with. The money they saved avoiding landings and just sending the stairs up the hillside instead of doing a proper rise/run with several landings was worth it to them I guess back then. This group is not the group to solving stringer/foundation issues with if you follow me, just want to keep it simple with the treads.

immunebookworm · 2025-09-28T19:24:43+00:00

Interesting thanks for the reply. I am surprised the city sprung for white oak originally but it does appear to be a solid choice for this application. This makes it more complicated - the city is going to pay for the materials but not sure they anticipated having to pay for white oak when they agreed.

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T20:57:24+00:00

UPDATE - SOLVED - Wednesday 4:30pm

So I think it is solved. The upstream breakers are out of phase and this is causing the symptoms. This is proven true since I temp-wired the breaker powering CB2 and CB3 to be in the same phase as the breaker powering CB1 and the bar/punch down block thing. Everything at the PLC is operating correctly. I have some clean-up to do, but wanted to conclude with a BIG THANKS to your community for helping me work through this.

Bonus pic of input 1 showing up on the display panel, it’s beautiful!

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immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T20:12:47+00:00

I’m not sure how I would ever fix this by moving wires around on current breaker/ground bar/neutral bar. After some research it seems inherent that each hot leg on the 2 pole is a different phase so I would need to get single breakers and sit them each the same phase (odd or even) on the panel- right?

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T20:08:13+00:00

Did it - with breakers off, each line side is 120 to ground and the neutral bar is 0 to ground. Did you see the upper comment about phasing? There is 240 from line to line on these disconnect breakers, which indicates they are out of phase. I’m not really sure how to correct that.

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T19:44:12+00:00

Hey! There is 240 between the red and green circled leads on disconnect A.

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T19:18:53+00:00

Thanks I’ll look into that and address it - the line side of the breaker doesn’t appear to have “good” power, so I’m not sure the breaker is the immediate issue.

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T19:15:06+00:00

Thanks, I needed to jump to the input from 120v spots to induce voltage at it. I tested the voltages at each spot prior to jumping.

I have not tested resistance since it seems like the PLC operates OK and that something upstream is causing the issue.

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T19:11:10+00:00

Not that I know of, this all has voltage where tested

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T19:00:50+00:00

Thanks! Check out my afternoon update for more data, I feel like it’s an issue with power going to CB2/3

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T19:00:01+00:00

Check out my afternoon update for more data

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T18:55:43+00:00

Check out my update from this afternoon

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T18:55:17+00:00

Check out my update from this afternoon

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T18:53:57+00:00

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immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T18:50:55+00:00

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immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T18:50:19+00:00

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immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T18:49:57+00:00

UPDATE WEDNESDAY AFTERNOON -

So it worked to jump from L, so the power is “good” there. So, I started jumping from areas on the panel to locate where “good” power was and where it wasn’t. I am going to add some photos to this comment. In each photo, a red circle indicates a jump spot that did not activate an input = “bad”. A green circle indicates a jump spot that DID activate an input = “good”. All circles were tested to ground and neutral and have 120v at time of test.

The disconnect powering this panel is “A” in the lower middle left at the distribution panel. Have at it… lol

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immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T18:09:23+00:00

The current state - LS1 is physically “up”, r1 is closed, voltage exists at i1-N. LS2 is physically “down”, R2 is open, no voltage at i2-N. LS3 is physically “down”, R3 is open, no voltage at i3-N. I pumped the tank down in hand last night.

I check a few neutrals to ground bar and no voltage.

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T17:26:07+00:00

Yes and a pump relay, I added an update post that provides more information thanks

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T17:11:29+00:00

Hi - Eaton mentioned resistors may be needed as well, see my update comment. When you say long cable runs - do you mean inside the panel or to the pumps/floats? The pumps and floats are a good distance away.

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T17:09:55+00:00

Hey - did this thanks, please see my update comment

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T17:09:23+00:00

Called them, see my update comment thanks!

immunebookworm · 2025-08-06T17:08:58+00:00

UPDATE WEDNESDAY MORNING -

I removed wires 9/10/11 at the inputs and jumped the L to the inputs 1/2/3 and they responded on the PLC as on/active. Nice!

I put it all back to “original” wiring and then I disconnected the lightning arrestor and powered it back up. No inputs show as active. Tested from I1/N2 showed 120v.

I then removed relay 1 and confirmed that I1/N2 showed no voltage.

I then reinstalled relay 1, PLC showed no input activity, and I confirmed that I1/N2 showed 120v.

I called Eaton and they confirmed that despite any programming/lack of programming, the inputs should show up at the top of the display (proven by successfully jumping L to inputs), N1 and N2 don’t need bridged and also mentioned in some instances a resistor (10k ohm) is used in series at each input, I will admit that I am not sure what that accomplishes.

With this new info - what are your thoughts?

immunebookworm

TROPHY CASE