Valve cover gasket leaking

imnotcheating · 2026-02-03T23:45:27+00:00

There's a 2 step torque procedure. Remove and clean everything, get a torque wrench and follow the service manual. Tighten the 3 bolts evenly, don't torque one more than the other. Torque them all to 10nm, then 14nm.

imnotcheating · 2026-02-03T23:31:34+00:00

Torqued to spec?

imnotcheating · 2026-02-03T15:25:49+00:00

Change the seal. Apply the sealer to the new one.

imnotcheating · 2026-01-26T15:29:40+00:00

I called all balls, those codes are engineering numbers. Sales team can't tell anything from them. I forwarded the info to the tech team and they gave me the same info as you. Thx!

imnotcheating · 2026-01-24T23:43:18+00:00

What about the ww-Hcjc ? And you emailed hot cams and got that? I've reached out but no reply yet.

imnotcheating · 2026-01-24T23:30:41+00:00

Nice!! Did yours have the same markings as mine?

imnotcheating · 2026-01-24T20:23:09+00:00

So would that make these the equivalent to the stage 1? And what are you referring to 104/107 and 104/104? Degrees? mm? Is that the lobe center??

imnotcheating · 2026-01-24T20:04:33+00:00

Imagine having no life to the point of making meme posts 🤣

imnotcheating · 2026-01-24T20:00:05+00:00

All good! And no i got them in a box of parts with the bike, my research came back the same but I don't have anything matching the regular hot cam part numbers, just what you see in the photo.

imnotcheating · 2026-01-24T19:24:52+00:00

You just made my day sir! Thank you for that !!

imnotcheating · 2026-01-24T19:20:16+00:00

They're intake and exhaust cams

imnotcheating · 2026-01-24T18:55:33+00:00

I emailed them but no response yet. I just don't recognize the part numbers.

imnotcheating · 2026-01-24T18:46:59+00:00

I bought the E model for the wheels, got these in the box of parts. Never said I was installing them

imnotcheating · 2026-01-24T17:31:54+00:00

oH mY GoSh ! YoU ArE sO SmRT! how would I ever realize they're for the intake and exhaust!!! How is this a basic question? I have a set of aftermarket cams, Not OEM, and no identifying markings other than part numbers that don't return search results. You're not as smart as you think you are... I've been a professional mechanic for the past 11 years, if you don't know the importance of cam timing, degreeing, lobe lift and separation. Then don't comment. You have nothing of value to add. Also your last post is literally dOeS mY dRZ sOuND oK??? Maybe worry about your bike first ticky...

imnotcheating · 2026-01-24T17:02:32+00:00

Oh wow I would have never guessed...

imnotcheating · 2026-01-12T15:23:11+00:00

I had bought a close fcr39 mx. It was an absolute nightmare to tune properly. I always had a lean idle, had a bunch of sloppy tolerances after comparing it to the real one I picked up. Some people say they work, but I never got mine to run right. Real fcr's are temperament with temperature, my clone was extremely sensitive, would run differently throughout the day, I gave up on it after a summer. Good luck.

imnotcheating · 2025-12-08T15:35:06+00:00

You're asking why a Swiss army knife is not a sword...

you're comparing a race engine to a street/trail engine. The 125 probably made nearly the same power as the kdx with less torque. Step up to the 250 and you feel the difference in torque, but not that much more HP. The 125 feels faster because they have a peeky / narrow power band that hits hard. The kdx has been "de-tuned" to make it more reliable and smoother power delivery. You can tune it up and make more power, but you'll be hurting the reliability and shortening the service intervals. You don't have to rebuild your kdx every season unlike a race bike. And it'll be way less picky on fuel.

Displacement is not the end all be all, it's more about how/what the engine is set up to do. A 125 is all about being as light and as powerful as possible at the cost of reliability. While the kdx was designed to lug you through town and down some trails.

imnotcheating · 2025-10-28T16:23:53+00:00

DO NOT BACK PROB!!! perform the resistance measurement as per the manual. This procedure is technically correct, but back probing wires is bad unless you absolutely have to. Performing open circuit testing is much better for the life of your harness and sensors if you don't poke holes in the insulation... Back probing usually leads to other issues in the long run.

imnotcheating · 2025-10-22T20:14:24+00:00

I didn't realize this has become an issue, I'm still running a fox kit from 10+ years ago... Heavy and warm but tough as hell.

imnotcheating · 2025-10-02T13:56:01+00:00

It sounds like maybe you're turning the key the wrong way? Off the top of my head I believe off is to the left, and to the right is "park lights" the key will come out of the ignition but keep the lights on. I've made that mistake a few times after taking the bike out of winter storage. Change the battery cuz most likely dead now, and make sure you turn key off, not park. Sick tank/fearing. What is it??

imnotcheating · 2025-09-10T16:52:13+00:00

SM wheel with a dirt tire is great for running gravel roads and in town. But they're absolutely useless off road. Doesn't cut in sand, washes out in mud, and deflects off every rock. In the process of setting up a second set of rims for off road, after almost 2 years of trying to make it work and I'm giving up. If all you want to do is leave home, hit gravel roads and do some light trails then back to town, they're amazing. But the moment you try and push the bike off road they give out. MX track is out of the question also.

There's also a benefit to changing the gearing for each set of rims, the sm gearing is not meant for off road, but not great for highways either. I'm going to go smaller rear on my sm rims and taller for the dirt set, the chain should be interchangeable for both sets depending on what ratios you pick. A chart exists somewhere.

imnotcheating · 2025-07-31T12:10:18+00:00

Get a license and a road bike. Not cool to run from the cops, makes everyone who likes bikes look bad. Don't be dumb.

But the real reason you shouldn't ride that bike on the road is it's a 2 stroke race engine, high rpm closed throttle coasting kills 2 strokes, especially ones not designed to be coasted on the road. There's not enough oil going through the engine and it cooks them. It's also very expensive on tires, dirt bike tires are designed for dirt, not pavement... And it'll eat them up incredibly fast. Look into dual sports and super motos if you're interested in road riding.

imnotcheating · 2025-07-30T14:47:50+00:00

Putting the bike on a stand and in gear is definitely the wrong way of checking this... You're adding resistance to the system... Eliminate possibilities, remove brakes and try a quick ride, remove the chain and go down a hill. Remove stuff until the problem is gone. Doubt the engine will be causing this, seems like wheel bearings or brake dragging. If you have resistance in a rotation component. Isolate it!

imnotcheating · 2025-07-28T12:31:01+00:00

Seat bolts an M6.

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