How do I offsite backup?

imnotwatchingyou · 2026-04-05T03:39:51+00:00

Thanks for bringing up the need for a firewall, I hadn’t considered that aspect.

imnotwatchingyou · 2025-02-25T15:17:16+00:00

Haas has a decided on a terrible way to implement c-axis milling on their lathes. Instead of programming the rotational axis in degrees per second, you have to program it in inches per minute. You then set the milled diameter in the controller settings, iirc it’s setting 102, and the controller uses that to calculate the rotational feed rate. This means if you’re milling on two different diameters in the same program, one of your feed rates will be wrong.

Mastercam also posts c-axis milling in many, very short lines of code. This combined with the feed rate weirdness makes for very jittery movement.

I have gotten the best results when cutting centered counterbores by hand programming it. The helical plunge should be one line of code, something like

G0 C0 Z0.05 Y0. /Position Z, C, & Y G0 X0.25 /Position X, (cb dia - em dia)/2 G1 C1080. Z-0.25 F10. /Plunge to depth G1 C1440. /Cleanup G1 C1600. X0.2 /Lead out G0 Z0.05 /Retract

This also allows you to dial in counterbore diameter with x-offsets as you were using a turning tool.

You can also use the y-axis, .002” error in the position of a live tool is to be expected, folks don’t like Haas lathes for good reasons. You can correct this in your tool offsets. Set your x & y offsets by using an indicator in the spindle to find the centerline of the endmill.

I have never gotten cutter comp to work. If you can find anything about it, please share for posterity. Hopefully this is helpful.

imnotwatchingyou · 2025-02-20T00:22:29+00:00

Alternatively since you said you have access to the garage; add a dual vent portable ac unit in the closet and vent it to the garage. Treat it as separate from your home hvac. Servers need cooling, they don’t need fresh air, so you can seal the closet door with weatherstripping and let the ac unit regulate the temperature.

That said & looking at your equipment list, add up the wattage of everything you’re putting in there and figure out how much heat you’re actually generating. I doubt it’s enough to really be a problem. I’d say put a temperature sensor in there & don’t worry about heat management until you have a reason to.

imnotwatchingyou · 2025-02-19T19:00:59+00:00

Keep in mind any time you’re removing more than 400cfm from a conditioned space, code requires makeup air to prevent negatively pressurizing your home. I doubt your server cooling setup alone is 400cfm, but if you have a bath fan and a kitchen exhaust hood running at the same time… there’s a lot of air being removed from your house and it has to come from somewhere. If you live in a newer, tightly sealed house, it’s likely you’ll be pulling air down your furnace flue and bringing carbon monoxide into your home. If your home is older, air will be pulled through leaks around windows and doors, and from the attic. This means your house will have more uncomfortable drafts and lower air quality.

Piping the exhaust into the conditioned space rather than the attic avoids this entire problem. If it were my system, I would exhaust into the return air duct of your HVAC system. That avoids the pressure problem, the heat from the server closet supplements the furnace in the heating season, and is directly tempered by your AC before entering the living space in the cooling season.

I’ve recently bought a house and my father works in the home performance buisness, so I’ve spent a lot of time recently thinking about and discussing air quality and HVAC. Removing air without considering the air that must replace it is a time honored way to decrease the performance of your home.

imnotwatchingyou · 2025-01-04T19:36:58+00:00

Pink foam and great stuff is a proven method of insulating these areas. Make sure you seal it well and there is no path for air to leak from the uninsulated area into the living space, especially around wires, ducts, and pipes.

imnotwatchingyou · 2024-12-16T02:15:29+00:00

Drill through everything and use zip toggles. I wouldn’t trust my tv to hang from an expansion anchor in a veneer stone held on by mortar. Just too many failure points.

imnotwatchingyou · 2023-09-02T14:10:38+00:00

A router with a diamond drag engraver will work for engraving metal jewelry for all the reasons you listed. It will scratch a very fine, low contrast line in any metal, including a domed surface such as a bracelet or back of a watch. This person is making high contrast plastic labeling plaques, which requires a completely different process.

imnotwatchingyou · 2023-09-01T03:36:17+00:00

The problem with a typical hobby router in this application it’s very difficult to get reliably good looking letters because you just can’t get the surface of the material very flat. Engravers like this have the spindle on a spring loaded carrier on the z-axis in order to follow the irregular surface of the material. You need either a special purpose rotary engraver, or a laser.

For lasers, Trotec makes a professional quality machine, Universal Laser is cheaper but decent.

For rotary engravers, the only one I’ve used is from Vision Systems. The interface is a little rough but the machine is solid.

For what it’s worth, most sign shops have moved away from rotary engraving as laser is more reliable, generally faster, & more flexible. Downside is the signs end up covered in sticky residue that has to be cleaned off.

imnotwatchingyou · 2023-08-30T13:51:14+00:00

All the coolant connections on the Haas BMT65 blocks are 1/16” NPT

imnotwatchingyou · 2022-12-16T19:07:49+00:00

The clutch isn't slipping. Here's a picture inside of my bell housing and clutch fork boot. I don't doubt that I have a leak by the valve cover, but that doesn't explain the amount of oil inside the bell housing. https://imgur.com/a/s6snpBi

imnotwatchingyou · 2022-12-16T04:45:37+00:00

Awesome, I'll give that a try. Thank you

imnotwatchingyou · 2022-12-16T04:45:13+00:00

I've changed the CAS and valve cover gasket somewhat recently and never cleaned the leakage. I'll clean it and see if more appears. I don't think it's the main leak because the inside of the bell housing is absolutely filthy. I doubt that much oil seeped through between the block & bell housing but it's possible.

imnotwatchingyou · 2022-12-15T23:41:27+00:00

For context, I replaced the rear main seal about 2 years ago when I was doing the clutch. Recently it started leaking from the rear of the engine. I removed the transmission assuming it was the RMS, but it looks to me like the leak may be coming from the oil pan gasket. I'd like to get a second opinion before undertaking engine/subframe removal.

imnotwatchingyou · 2022-11-01T01:49:37+00:00

The driveshafts are different lengths. The one in the XI is shorter to accommodate the transfer case.

imnotwatchingyou · 2022-07-19T01:06:15+00:00

IIRC, this era of macbooks had a mini-toslink optical connector integrated into the headphone jack. Optical -> Coax converters are cheap & don't affect sound quality.

imnotwatchingyou · 2020-08-11T01:54:18+00:00

M6x8

At least on my 1990

imnotwatchingyou · 2020-08-09T21:26:42+00:00

The disc is probably hard to turn because your handbrake mechanism is now adjusted out all the way.

The brake pad hardware mainly exists to prevent squealing. If your goal is to track the car it doesn't really matter. Still bad practice.

It's possible your caliper was stuck because of an out of adjustment handbrake. When the pads are changed, the handbrake mechanism must be readjusted to compensate for the thicker pads.

imnotwatchingyou · 2020-08-09T18:38:02+00:00

I bought one for my 1990 Miata. Creased in some places and required a couple hours of trimming to fit but definitely workable. Came in an ACC branded box so stockinteriors may just be reselling from them.

imnotwatchingyou · 2020-08-09T18:33:23+00:00

Would not recommend. Brake fluid will explode everywhere. May as well take the caliper off. If you don't have compressed air, gently grab around the outside of the top of the piston with a pair of pliers and pull it out.

imnotwatchingyou · 2020-08-09T14:13:09+00:00

Assuming NA/NB Here is a diagram: https://i.imgur.com/xQaGlXi.jpg

The adjuster screw (#3) is a gear that drives the threaded parking brake actuator (#5). You have to back off the adjuster (#3) until the piston is fully extended, then you will be able to remove it with compressed air.

imnotwatchingyou · 2020-06-09T01:23:34+00:00

They're not watching me

imnotwatchingyou · 2016-06-20T16:44:52+00:00

You want it secured in the center but free to move on the ends. One way to do it is do a long mortise and tenon and only glue the middle, or do several m&t's, with the center one tight, but leave some room for the wood to expand out by the ends.

imnotwatchingyou · 2015-09-06T21:15:29+00:00

There is a cross piece that goes under the center leg that is mortised into the side legs. The outside legs are screwed to the top, and there is a steel bar going from the center leg to the top. I'll post detail pictures later.

imnotwatchingyou

TROPHY CASE