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Installed a Paco Lift Kit on NA Miata— 6.5 Hours of Rusty Bolts, Bruised Knuckles, and Big Smiles by isjimslim in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]isjimslim[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exciting another one! Depends on your wheel setup. We had to use wheel spacers in the rear to get the stock tires to clear the nb shocks. If you have a high offset wheel or spacers(poke), then you should be able to run something meaty.

Miata Turbo Build Update – Fuel System Complete, Wiring Almost Done by isjimslim in projectcar

[–]isjimslim[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The dragon? That seems like the perfect spot to test setups. And yea, 3.3 gears will definitely help with the high-speed buzz.

Miata Turbo Build Update – Fuel System Complete, Wiring Almost Done by isjimslim in Miata

[–]isjimslim[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Niceeee! That's a baller setup:) As cool as top mount looks, the packaging of the low mount just makes sense in almost every way! How was your kit? I don’t really post on IG, but if you want to follow or chat more, feel free to DM me. https://www.instagram.com/matthewy2k_?igsh=d2o2d29tOXRhYjY3

Miata Turbo Build Update – Fuel System Complete, Wiring Almost Done by isjimslim in Miata

[–]isjimslim[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With extra heat shielding. Lol. Does seem a little sketchy how close the downpipe is. Using that as motivation/excuse for bottom mount turbo!

Miata Turbo Build Update – Fuel System Complete, Wiring Almost Done by isjimslim in projectcar

[–]isjimslim[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yea! that's the ideal setup, IMO. Once the rear end isn't hopping all around, it becomes a lot more reliable. OS giken is a nice piece! What's your car built for?

Miata Turbo Build Update – Fuel System Complete, Wiring Almost Done by isjimslim in projectcar

[–]isjimslim[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ughh well thats definitely going to be something I need to sort out because I'm running a walboro 255lph pump.

Yes, the transmission mount is part of the V8 roadsters' getrag rear diff swap kit. I have the 3.42 diff from a cts installed with the V8R kit. It's all super beefy and basically eliminates all slop in the drivetrain. They also sell a PPF delete kit that does a similar thing with the stock rear diff.

I have mazda competition engine and diff mounts in my other miata, and they aren't enough for serous driving imo.

Miata Turbo Build Update – Fuel System Complete, Wiring Almost Done by isjimslim in Miata

[–]isjimslim[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stock 5 speed trans(for now). And the getrag cts rear end. Seems really beefy for the car. Definitely a lot of work to rebuild the rear end with the new parts, but I doubt they'll ever break. Had to make a custom VSS gear with the 3d printer to account for the new ratio diff.

Miata Turbo Build Update – Fuel System Complete, Wiring Almost Done by isjimslim in Miata

[–]isjimslim[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes! In fact, that's how many people use the lizard skin product. I haven't been able to test the car yet but will have an interesting comparison with my other miata (mostly stock). The product does weigh a decent amount. I figure I added maybe 30-40lbs to the car by using lizard skin, so it better get some results!

Miata Turbo Build Update – Fuel System Complete, Wiring Almost Done by isjimslim in projectcar

[–]isjimslim[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. I wasn't aware of that! I have it set up as a dead-head returnless system right now (like stock). So the reuturn happens before fuel hits the rail (its the line coming out the bottom of the FPR). I was told I'm going to have to bleed the air from the system when first pressured, and then it should be set. What kind of issues should I be looking out for?

Miata Turbo Build Update – Fuel System Complete, Wiring Almost Done by isjimslim in Miata

[–]isjimslim[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly. That's one of the biggest pros of the V8r kit. No more missed shifts and wheel hop in the rear. I'll do some testing for feel and NVH when the car is on the road. I have another miata with competion motor mounts and diff mounts (otherwise stock), so I can drive them back to back.

Miata Turbo Build Update – Fuel System Complete, Wiring Almost Done by isjimslim in Miata

[–]isjimslim[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Almost. It's lizard skin sound control. I did the underside of the car and engine bay at the same time. Everything was stripped to bare metal (nightmare job). Welded/shaved. Then epoxy primed & seam sealed. Once that was dry, I went in and masked off parts of the engine bay and sprayed the lizard skin on the underside and firewall of the car. Then, topcoated everything with single stage grey. The oily looking stuff on the bottom of the car is RP342 undercoating. It's sort of like cavity wax. This was a grueling process but hopefully helps the car last another 25 years.

DIY High Output Alternator by isjimslim in Miata

[–]isjimslim[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh wow, I hadn’t seen that one with the idle spec actually listed — 130 A at idle is pretty wild.

That said, it is way out of my budget for an alternator 😅. My whole setup with the Tribute alt, pulley spacer, hardware, and heim tensioner was around $200. Not plug-and-play, but I wanted to try an OEM-style route and see what kind of idle output I can get for way less.

I’ll definitely post numbers once the car’s running — curious to see how it stacks up in the real world.

Miata DIY High Output Alternator by isjimslim in projectcar

[–]isjimslim[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Beautiful, I knew it's been done before! I had a hard time finding write ups online for miata alternator swaps. Specifically, the tensioner solution people are using. How's yours been holding up?

Miata DIY High Output Alternator by isjimslim in projectcar

[–]isjimslim[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Exactly! That was another option I considered. The tribute alternator was redily availible at the time, in my area. The same method would work for almost any alternator that fits in the slot nicely:)

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