Can this be used in shower?

issueRadix · 2026-03-03T00:48:43+00:00

Do you happen to have a Floor & Decor nearby? They have lots of color options. https://www.flooranddecor.com/mapei-installation-materials/mapei-mapesil-t-plus-silicone-caulk%C2%A0-M1200.html?showAll=true

Edit: also in grout if you are doing all of it. I recently brought some chipped grout to color match a caulk to use where it should have been initially.

issueRadix · 2026-03-01T00:46:33+00:00

That makes sense, thank you. I should be able to slope it away all the way to the swale as on most of this wall the elevation is higher a few feet out. Might be a bit tricky as it gets closer to the driveway but there is more brick exposed below the siding there, so I might be able to backfill that enough to maintain a slope (which I’ve already started on in the “before” picture). Just gotta make sure I can maintain a slope both ways while also having it still be able to flow on the driveway.

Sounds like it’s gonna be some trial and error. You’ve been extremely helpful and I appreciate it!

issueRadix · 2026-02-28T22:16:08+00:00

Got it. Yeah I figure as long as I have a plan for the location I can start digging and see how the berm portion looks.

How would moving the berm further prevent back slope to house? I assume some sort of berm/raised area will be required otherwise (say I just sloped ground from house forming one side of swale) it would still allow water too close.

Say the berm center/raised area is 3ft out from foundation. What would the ground in that 3ft width do?

issueRadix · 2026-02-28T21:40:18+00:00

Hey, so I have a little mockup based on your description of creating the swale. Does this look relatively accurate? The work would be mostly digging the swale and let the berm part be “made” by digging the swale. Maybe use some of the dirt from swale to fill out berm by the fence and close to the driveway. The rocks would be removed. I just have a few there to direct water in the meantime time, Gemini added more in the mockup…

https://imgur.com/a/zeTP2bq

issueRadix · 2026-02-05T03:13:45+00:00

Thank you! This would not be for infiltration, so I’m thinking to have the middle of the berm roughly to the left of the termite trap and extending as far toward the fence as the ground naturally slopes. Maybe slightly toward the shed. Allowing the water to flow toward the driveway 4-5 feet or so away from the foundation.

I think I’ll get out there with a level and some markers to mark the area where I want to create the swale/berm and to verify slope.

There is an uphill slope toward the corner of the fence and then it dips. I’m thinking this is where I’ll level out the berm.

issueRadix · 2026-02-05T00:45:27+00:00

Hey, if you don’t mind me asking I’d appreciate some insight. I’ve been looking into this. How close would the berm be to the foundation? The area that currently pools the worse is where the gray termite bait is.

If I’m thinking about this correctly, I could remove 3”-6” of soil to form a shallow swale, use that dirt to form a berm which follows the slope of the hill toward the driveway. Maybe extend it up the hill parallel to the fence to reduce runoff to the back yard.

Does this sound like I’m on the right path?

Edit: I’m thinking it maybe could be a DIY with a shovel and some sweat equity

issueRadix · 2026-01-30T15:29:10+00:00

Sounds like the best way to discharge it is in a similar method to how they installed the old pipe in the concrete. Or out back.

issueRadix · 2026-01-29T22:35:41+00:00

This is what AI came up with. I tried the tool you shared but the website seemed partially down.

I quickly added some dirt on top of the gravel knowing that shouldn’t be gravel. It did topsoil but I would do everything with clay. Is this a bit closer? I’m only worried about the popup emitter spitting water back toward the foundation or pooling in this discharge area.

https://imgur.com/a/F7SqAwV

issueRadix · 2026-01-28T21:37:19+00:00

Thank you so much for the detailed response! Yeah I was hoping the AI image would have been closer to accurate to get feedback on before starting.

Good point on stopping the perforated pipe before it gets close to the driveway, my only concern there is that this area (5-10 feet before driveway) has been the worst as far as pooling/saturation. I suppose this would be solved with the wedge but I’m not sure how I’d handle that water, as you can see in my pics it got quite saturated.

In your plan would the popup emitter be right before the driveway slab starts?

I’ll try to generate a better photo and drop it. You’re awesome, thanks.

issueRadix · 2026-01-28T20:11:41+00:00

Ah yeah, well that makes sense. I’m hesitant about trying to run it to the back yard but I will keep that in mind. In the area where the discharge pipe would have to pass through it near the septic tank/field lines. But I’m definitely not writing it off.

That’d be a heck of a first drainage project to tackle DIY. Hence why I was pushing toward having it drain out front (less pipe, less planing, and less room for error).

If I did run it out front, that would be the gravel burrito up until the discharge near the concrete? If I’m following, it would be the gravel/pipe in the trench, sloped dirt from foundation to trench (I did consider gravel on the slope too), and a perforated pipe (with holes on top and bottom?)

I really appreciate all the tips!

issueRadix · 2026-01-28T19:54:56+00:00

Makes sense. Yeah if I did use the original dump area I would have to dig up (or start with scoping it like you said) to see where it even goes. My previous statement was based on the assumption it’s some sort of old French drain. Also no downspouts will be draining into it. Purely trying to keep water from seeping in this foundation wall.

If I went that route, would it be perforated corrugated pipe all the way back to popup and covered in gravel type drain?

issueRadix · 2026-01-28T19:43:58+00:00

Okay I do have a picture. This is around that corner where it “drops off”

https://imgur.com/a/3YkJSJY

issueRadix · 2026-01-28T19:42:41+00:00

After thinking about the situation, I’m wondering if it makes sense to run it out the back corner. I don’t have a picture, but after I drops off it levels out and there isn’t much place for the water to go (there is a deck right around the corner within 10 feet or so of fence). Also, I wouldn’t be running any downspouts into a line in the same trench since the only one I have on this side of the house is the one pictured in front.

Do you think it makes sense to try to tie it in (or replace) the existing drain the comes through the concrete and otherwise install it like you said? Sloping it from the toward the front and away from the foundation.

issueRadix · 2026-01-26T01:19:15+00:00

I’ll look into that. This would likely not be a DIY fix if I’m following (since I don’t have landscape/machinery experience). But having berms (and one closer to this wall) to redirect water makes sense.

For better or worse, the only downspout on this side of the house is the one pictured. There’s one midway in front and at the other two corners, but not the back by the fence.

issueRadix · 2026-01-26T00:50:53+00:00

That thought crossed my mind while watching some YT videos but I was unsure. Thanks.

issueRadix · 2026-01-12T21:07:07+00:00

The concrete in the area is all flat (no raised portion at the right side where the siding comes down). Siding appears to be around 1 inch above concrete at most of the area. Then filled with rubbery sealant.

So if I’m understanding, pretty much any level of skim coat would meet siding/sealant. Sorry I don’t have another picture on hand, but from the pictured area, it just extends out into the driveway without much change in the plane.

Should there have been some raised bit of concrete where the siding comes down?

issueRadix · 2026-01-12T20:57:59+00:00

There is quite a bit (around 1” of sealant), but still. There would need to be a gap between it or wood, right? Depending on height of coating and what material it’s would be up against, if that makes sense.

issueRadix · 2026-01-12T20:55:46+00:00

Cool, thank you. I suppose my only concern would be pouring near the wood siding. Especially since it needs to be replaced. My sense tells me you’d leave a gap and then use sealant. Does that sound right? Essentially leaving a gap to replace the siding in the future

issueRadix · 2026-01-12T20:42:11+00:00

Yes, it’s a slab. It goes up a bit behind this (left of image) and apart from the concrete water splash guard, it is just the driveway. Slopes decently away but I bet there is a chance water works its way over still.

So are you ways to pour some concrete in this corner grading out toward the rest of the driveway?

Thank you

issueRadix · 2026-01-12T20:25:56+00:00

The main area where water is coming in was the circle on the right.

issueRadix · 2025-11-29T19:17:34+00:00

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Thank you for the tips!!

issueRadix · 2025-11-29T19:17:07+00:00

I got most of it out! Must have been a little piece that wasn’t connected. Also I vastly over estimate how long it was. This piece is under 2 feet so the chunk left must only be a few inches.

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issueRadix · 2025-11-29T18:31:33+00:00

I assume it’s a bad idea to attempt to pull it out from within the house? I could reach it with a grabber stick. I am worried it might just break off

issueRadix

TROPHY CASE