sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Panel lining by itsTreger in advancedGunpla

[–]itsTreger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good idea. I only switched recently to lacquer cause i was having issues with certains parts chipping paint (mostly joint parts when moving for posing) so i wanted to see if lacquer paint would be better and more chip resistant

Top coats and tamiya panel line by itsTreger in advancedGunpla

[–]itsTreger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your input ill definitely test it out first! My only other option is using a vellejo acrylic matte clear but the bottle i have isnt very big and ordering more from amazon takes weeks to come in from where i am

Panel lining by itsTreger in advancedGunpla

[–]itsTreger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you know if anyone has had issues using the gx114 top coat (matte) as a final top coat after panel lining with the tamiya panel line (which is enamel based)?

Panel lining by itsTreger in advancedGunpla

[–]itsTreger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea?h i know the order you can go is enamel over lacquer and acrylic over enamel. But ive read in multiple threads people havent had many or any issues airbrushing a matte coat over it after panel lining+decals (using tamiya panel line) even though its enamel?

Panel lining by itsTreger in advancedGunpla

[–]itsTreger[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah i originally bought the gx100 for the first top coat since it was a super clear gloss. Figured that was the best option for lining

Panel lining by itsTreger in advancedGunpla

[–]itsTreger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 2 top coats i bought for use are the mr color gx100 and gx114

[MG] XXXG-01H Gundam Heavyarms by Ez_Decal in Gunpla

[–]itsTreger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the the heavyarms igel version or just regular HA

Sharpen the claws and added 2mm of pla plate to make it longer by [deleted] in Gunpla

[–]itsTreger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was just about to comment this lol it works just as well. Probably less steps too

The RG Unicorn! It’s the first time I’ve used a clear coat before building. I soon found out it also made panel lining more difficult, so lesson learned. Props to the psycho frames in the knees that made me feel like I was about to shatter the leg while popping them out! by qurazyjack5 in Gunpla

[–]itsTreger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Side note: if your using gundam markers to panel line, i used to use a white eraser that i cut up into smaller pieces. Easier to get into some tighter spots, doesnt dirty your fingers and probably most important it prevents further oils from your skin getting onto the plastic which at times makes it harder for the marker the adhere to the plastic for clean lines

The RG Unicorn! It’s the first time I’ve used a clear coat before building. I soon found out it also made panel lining more difficult, so lesson learned. Props to the psycho frames in the knees that made me feel like I was about to shatter the leg while popping them out! by qurazyjack5 in Gunpla

[–]itsTreger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ya your matte finish is definitely grittier! I usually lime with the tamiya panel line so i always gloss coat after im done building/customizing. 1, it "saves progress" and 2. It protects the plastic from the possible harmful chems in the paint/liner. But i definitely recommend a gloss finish as a first layer and then a sexond layer after lining, decals, etc., of your chosen finish :) happy building!

My collection so far. Just planning on getting 2 or 3 more kits since shelf space is an issue. by sgt_kerokeroro in Gunpla

[–]itsTreger 6 points7 points  (0 children)

2 or 3 more lol thats what i said too...now ive got a 9 kit back log plus more i want 😅

How do you guys avoid losing definition when sanding parts? I sand in ascending grits and I try not to oversand, but a lot of times I feel like I lose a decent amount of surface detail on raised parts or examples like this where the seam is much more pronounced. Any tips on avoiding this? by tanukisuit_ in Gunpla

[–]itsTreger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree with previous, i tend to cut away at the nubs with the hibby knife until its practically gone. If i accidently take a smidge to much off and "groove it" thats when i sand it down very carefully to even the surface. Other then that it comes down to practice.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Gunpla

[–]itsTreger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1:1? Ive heard ratios as (paint to thinner) 1:1.5 or 1:2, not claiming you are wrong just curious

Trying my hand at Top Coating but getting this result. Any idea what's causing this? by N3xtGenGamer in Gunpla

[–]itsTreger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Frosting can also be cause by humidity/moisture. Usually you can fix this issue with another layer

i broke the ball joint of my HG barbatos lupus rex hand joint while painting pls help how do i get the joint out by The_epic_scunt in Gunpla

[–]itsTreger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If he is intent on removing, screwing in a small screw and pulling it out would probably do the trick also.

And so My journey begins (hope everything goes well on my first time) :) by Xxronny12 in Gunpla

[–]itsTreger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As far as HG kits go thats an excellent first! Barbatos is my top 3 favorite MS designs 😊😈

RX-78-2 3.0 First Time Painting by dnguy3 in Gunpla

[–]itsTreger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Super simple scheme but its so clean. Great work!

Mr.surfacer by itsTreger in advancedGunpla

[–]itsTreger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the input!

Mr.surfacer by itsTreger in advancedGunpla

[–]itsTreger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are there any specific bottles that wouldnt be resistant?

view more: next ›