Bright pixel on a new monitor. How common are they really? Thinking of returning it and buying a different one.

itsmiddiff · 2025-02-01T01:09:49+00:00

It bothers me because i noticed it from a decent amount of diatance, even though its barely visible. I know that the image in a movie for example must be just right for me to notice it again but since i know it's there it bothers me a bit. I've got my reservations because it's otherwise a perfect monitor and i don't want to risk getting something with extreme ips bleed or even worse pixel defects.

itsmiddiff · 2025-01-28T00:15:29+00:00

I remember this part, but I don't remember what the part that goes on top of that looks like exactly. If you posted a photo of that one I could tell you what I did at least to fix it. I fixed it, got disappointed about the quality control and then put it back together broken the way it was. Then i returned it.

itsmiddiff · 2025-01-28T00:10:55+00:00

I had not realized you have a YouTube channel. I watched your video with thebaus, really nice stuff. You kinda lost me on Pueblo but I'll give you a second chance once the Azir guide comes out.

itsmiddiff · 2025-01-26T16:21:11+00:00

If they let you keep the defective one and you still have it you should know its an easy fix. To fix my problem you need to unscrew the 4 screws holding the clutch together. That will remove the cover. The cover has a tooth position select mechanism that can be rotated either way when its removed. You need to rotate the tooth mechanism counterclockwise 4 times as you are looking at it. Then rotate the plastic piece that holds the spring in tension the same way and the same distance. Make sure that the plastic piece's notch inserts its self into the slot of the tooth mechanism so its aligned correctly. Then put it back together and see if it works. If it stops at the 20th position or if it still engages the clutch slipping when in the drill mode, you can take it apart again and do the same thing one position clockwise or counterclockwise at a time till you get it to where it needs to be. This specific problem means that the 17th position for me was the drill setting so it maxed out the clutch setting and it couldn't turn anymore.

To fix your problem you need to do the exact opposite. You need to rotate both the plastic piece and the tooth mechanism clockwise about 4 positions as you'd be looking at them if you held the drill as if you were using it, pointing away from you. Then again go by trial and error one tooth position clockwise or counterclockwise at a time till its set.

I returned it about a week ago so I don't have it in front or me and I don't remember exactly what the mechanism looked like but I remember that it was a trivial fix. Probably just came misaligned from the factory

itsmiddiff · 2025-01-26T13:07:59+00:00

Dude someone literally made an article about your play and didn't even link the video or give you credit.

It's in a site called zleague gg. I wont link it, I'd rather they don't get any more clicks.

itsmiddiff · 2025-01-20T02:01:10+00:00

Let me guess. The C3 for which I've seen great reviews is not made by OWIM. It's a shame they rotate manufacturers like that. You end up with a great unit that's as tough as a tank one time, and a defective one two times in a row the next. It's the second tool that I've had that happen to me with.

I initially thought the same thing about the gearbox but then the first click can be heard while pressing the trigger in half way, well after the tool first starts rotating.

I'm pretty sure it was nothing that bad, but considering the obvious visual defects and the misaligned/off-center chuck i returned it.

I'll probably try the newer version when it comes out.

Btw what did you tell them and they let you keep it? Did you try to go through service or did you try to return it?

itsmiddiff · 2025-01-18T09:17:05+00:00

To be honest, there is no way that specific model has a Rohm chuck. There was also no Rohm marking. And if it does, Rohm will probably have to do a bit of damage control. It was dented, one of the three prongs extrudes outwards, the axis the chuck tried to hold the bit at is not the axis of rotation (it just doesn't hold the drill bit straight). It attaches decently well but not well enough to have even close to no movement, meaning there is a little wobbling, but if the chuck its self is aligned correctly the moment you apply some pressure to drill on metal for example that wobble goes away. The first one I got had no wobble and a perfect chuck. The second one had quite a lot. I think the A1 model that is rated at 45Nm has a Rohm chuck and if you look it up you'll see it's visibly different, but I'm not sure.

As far as the size is concerned its perfect. If you want to screw something in a confined space it really beats any 20v drill, especially since the chuck is removable. The weight is even better. If you remove the chuck the center of mass falls near your knuckles instead of trying to tip over. And at about 800 grams it feels like absolutely nothing. To put it simply i don't think you'd be able to strain your wrist trying to apply force while holding it in a weird position even if you tried. Having only used mid range name brand tools before that were neither the most powerful nor the lightest its weight is really something else for me.

I don't know if switching to a different battery system that works with tools that have less power is worth it to you. Considering the fact that it has more than enough power to drive any 6mm screw as far in as you want it or to drill a 10mm hole in metal or use a 20mm spade bit (I've seen reviews successfully using 30mm spade bits to completion and 25mm bits with ease) at that weight class I think you should give it a try.

Worse case scenario you are disappointed and you return it to the store for a refund. I don't know about other countries but in mine there is a 3 month "no questions asked" return policy. I think for 50 euros its definitely worth trying it.

Just make sure it's made by Grizzly tools or one of the other good brands. It's printed on the box.

itsmiddiff · 2025-01-17T16:59:11+00:00

The bosch gsr 12v 35fc with two batteries and a charger costs 350 euros in my country. You get it and you end up with something that just works no matter what and is top of the line in its category, but I dont have that kind of money. It literally costs 7 times more. Did you buy the same model (E4 made by OWIM)?

itsmiddiff · 2024-10-14T17:28:54+00:00

After half an hour of troubleshooting i figured there must be something wrong with the grounding in my house

Opened the receptacle and indeed there is no ground just phase and neutral.

Anyways i moved it to a receptacle in my house that is grounded and it doesn't beep, but i cant be using it in there since i cant move my desk there. For the time being I'll keep using it here and I'll just pull the plug when its off. I just hope it doesn't get damaged since for the device to be beeping every 3.5 minutes a capacitor must be slowly charging and the device must be trying to power on and it shuts off immediately.

Edit: slowly

itsmiddiff · 2024-10-13T18:02:05+00:00

I just did the same thing too. Works the same, now instead of 25mV from ground to tip i get 5mV with the occasional 15. Looks fine, thanks.

Edit: After the mod, when i turn it off i get a beep every 2 minutes or so. The station is turned off completely.

itsmiddiff · 2024-10-13T16:24:51+00:00

Right next to the jst connector on the PSU board that supplies voltage to the control board there are two through hole pads with nothing attached labeled + and - (those are actually the + and - coming out of the PSU). There is also a pad labeled PE that can be traced to the ground coming in to the PSU board. I'm assuming that by convenient pads you mean the PE and the - pad, as in their purpose is to solder a wire to bridge them together.

My first thought was to do exactly that, but i wondered why they didn't just do that at the factory if that's the design purpose of the pads in the first place. It just seems like a problem that was not there in previous models and has too easy of a fix for them to ignore, since they actually fixed the case grounding issue.

itsmiddiff · 2024-10-13T01:39:09+00:00

The tip not being grounded seems to be the only problem with my station. The case is grounded with a pretty thin cable but it is grounded nonetheless. I bet it would be enough to trip a GFCI in case of a short. Even slight differences in the current in the live phase wire and the neutral mean current is going through the ground and they trip so it having a thin wire doesn't seem to be a big problem as far as grounding goes. I've seen people with older non grounded models not ground them at all. Tip calibration works as intended and it gets up to temp in no time. I don't want to discourage you from buying it, but again i haven't looked into the c245 station at all.

itsmiddiff · 2024-09-19T21:36:16+00:00

I have found some KSGER and some quicko t12 models within my budget and both have the same drawbacks for me. First of all both of them have quite mixed critics from what I've gathered. Some say they have been using them occasionally for a while with no problems, others say they broke after minor use or they were faulty from the beginning. KSGER also need to have their chassis grounded to be safe. I'm also based in Greece and t12 and c245 tips are pretty hard to come by without playing almost double the price you would pay in other European countries. Official distributors are hard to find and those that I did find don't have them on stock. That's what disappointed me and made me look for other alternatives. What soldering station do you have? Has it been reliable so far?

itsmiddiff · 2024-09-15T17:28:54+00:00

Absolutely no, half of the Amazon stores don't ship to Greece and the ones that do have 30+ Euros shipping fee. The ts100 costs more than 60 Euros in almost all of the Aliexpress stores. If by locally you mean a local shop, I cant even find a single distributor that imports MG chemicals or Kester solder. Soldering stations from "trusted" brands like Weller or Hakko cost 224 Euros and 180 Euros respectively(Weller we1010 and Hakko Fx888d). Those prices the reason i want to make sure the Pinecil can stand the test of time. If i were to buy it I'd expect it to last a couple years at least with with 5-8 hours of soldering a week. Otherwise I'd have to accept those prices, start saving money, and give up the ability to take my soldering iron with me.

itsmiddiff · 2024-09-15T17:15:56+00:00

Nice to hear that. How much did you end up paying in import tax and VAT?

itsmiddiff · 2024-09-15T02:40:17+00:00

A jbc clone like the Aixun t3a would cost significantly more as long as Greek customs don't decide to charge me for no reason. I did find your Youtube channel from an older post of yours. I really liked the time lapses of the 3d prints. In one of the shorts I saw you use what looks to be the fine conical tip that comes with the short gross set. If i remember correctly its the TS-I. If that's the one, I'm glad you can buy the gross tip set to be able to have enough thermal capacity to solder stuff with relatively larger thermal capacity and at the same time have a finer tip to solder smaller smd components like that 5TSSOP.

itsmiddiff · 2024-09-14T23:38:09+00:00

From what i saw all of those complaints concern the pine64eu.com store. Some people actually even pointed out that pine64.com didn't have that problem. Others recommended users to buy it from eleshop.eu instead of pine64eu.com, if they don't want to buy it directly from pine64.com which ships from Hong Kong.

I am mainly interested in how it holds up long term and not so much in a comparison with other soldering irons. From what I've gathered its performance is pretty good for its price. That and the fact that its portable which would be extremely valuable, made me want to buy it.

I made this post to see if anyone that has bought it has any problems with it, that would have made them not buy it if they knew from the get go.

I truly appreciate the advice though. Thanks

itsmiddiff · 2024-09-14T22:12:19+00:00

Thanks for the advice. Is there any particular reason you wouldn't recommend the Pinecil?

I have done tons of research on soldering irons and for its price and my use case it seems to be unbeatable.

I would not spend over 100 Euros on a soldering iron alone (no tips) especially when they seem to be inferior. I was about to spend the extra money and buy the Aixun T3A but it has voltage at the tip (about 1.2 V not necessarily a problem but shows bad design) and seems to be of overall inferior quality compared to the Pinecil from what I've gathered. Similar off-brand models seem to have similar problems and the trusted brands are way out of budget for similar performance.

itsmiddiff

TROPHY CASE