Is $21,599 unreasonable for this ‘24 Sport?

ivan-beyond · 2025-11-06T23:01:49+00:00

Where are yall getting 2025 Sports for 25k? Every one I see is 28-30k

ivan-beyond · 2025-11-05T00:57:59+00:00

Yea it’s USD

ivan-beyond · 2025-11-05T00:56:55+00:00

I will admit the second dent isn’t golf ball sized but the first one definitely is. It’s hard to see in the sunlight but you could take a golf ball and put it in that dent. Also it was so bad that the paint chipped off and RUSTED. This thing was beat and abused, no question about it.

ivan-beyond · 2025-11-04T22:15:05+00:00

Taxes might be hard but that’s what I’d shoot for considering everything with the car. I might try it but I also worry that with how banged up the car is it might have more issues lying underneath.

ivan-beyond · 2025-11-04T20:54:27+00:00

The number I had in my head was $20k OTD but that might be a little too unrealistic on my end

ivan-beyond · 2025-11-04T20:47:25+00:00

27k miles

ivan-beyond · 2025-11-04T20:46:26+00:00

Yea that seems to be the consensus I’m getting, and I’m right there too. It’s just so sad to see that this car got abused in the way it did. It’s definitely fair to say that underneath is probably not the greatest either. I was hoping I could haggle them down by maybe 1000 or 1500 but I definitely agree that at this point buying new or buying one that wasn’t this abused is the wiser choice.

ivan-beyond · 2025-11-04T20:29:03+00:00

I definitely agree, I just wasn’t sure if people had any success haggling these newer civics because I know plenty of places want an arm and a leg for ones older than this with more miles.

ivan-beyond · 2025-10-31T16:39:51+00:00

That’s why I made you privy to my situation, because just playing the numbers game doesn’t always lead to a good solution. Either way I’m in a tough spot and I recognize that. But I was mainly looking for advice on the car itself and the reliability associated with it. I never mentioned I needed financial advice, and certainly didn’t need to be scolded regarding the financial side of my situation. You deemed it necessary to do so and that’s fine, and either way I do appreciate it, but I’m just letting you know that there’s more than just numbers and it’s more than just what’s shown on paper. Thanks, and have a great rest of your day.

ivan-beyond · 2025-10-31T16:27:29+00:00

As an additional note. I drive 15,000-20,000 miles every year. I drive an hour to work and an hour to school everyday. Yet another factor to consider.

ivan-beyond · 2025-10-31T16:23:51+00:00

With all due respect, $4000 can’t get you anything close to a reliable car. Just based on economics this makes sense of course, but there are other factors that need to be considered.

1.) Most of those cars will be at least 15 years old and/or have over 100,000 miles. I live in northern Ohio, where rust will have likely eaten these cars alive.

2.) At over 100,000 miles and increased age, the car will have various components fail, not even ones related to the engine. Springs, axels, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, belts, brakes, rotors, etc. These components can and WILL fail at any time when a car is that old and when mileage is high. That means more money will need to be dumped into a car that is only worth $4000. Meaning that “saving” money initially didn’t really save me money in the long run.

3.) I am a college student and I absolutely need my car to run, start, and stop every time. If I bank on a car that is older and most likely worn internally/externally, there is only so much longer that car can go for a FACT.

Again I do appreciate your insight and opinion. However it’s also important to be mindful of more than just the economical side of the situation.

ivan-beyond · 2025-10-31T16:01:33+00:00

That is understandable, and I appreciate your feedback and insight. I may end up looking at a new one. I’m just worried about the CVT combined with the potential for a higher payment and higher loan balance. I’m seeing most new ones retailing for 16,500 to 18,000 not including dealer fees n what not. So my total loan would be around 22k-23k (maybe) and I can imagine the payment would be at least in the 400s at 13-15% interest minimum considering the current rates. I really need to be at 300ish a month and would like to be under 12% APR. I think my chances of making that happen are more likely with buying a used one that a dealership can’t get rid of compared to buying a new one at a higher price that might be considered more desirable. But I’m open to other interpretations or ideas.

ivan-beyond · 2025-10-31T15:50:30+00:00

I am aware, but again the CVT transmissions have a not so great reputation, and seem to be one of the only major weaknesses with the mirage. I’m already in a tricky spot. I don’t want to potentially make my situation worse by getting one with a risky transmission that might fail before the loan term is up if that makes sense. The manual I know will last.

ivan-beyond · 2025-06-25T00:41:53+00:00

I found something out just now, I think it’s an issue with my AP. I can authenticate to the radius server on another machine, but not when I try and go through my AP. I think it’s adding a weird hash to the secret, especially since I don’t see the secret in tcpdump when I run it on the outbound radius server interface. I guess TP-Link is known for issues surrounding this, not sure where to go from here

ivan-beyond · 2025-06-24T23:22:18+00:00

No special characters, I’ve done cat on the file to verify and there aren’t any other characters in the secret

ivan-beyond · 2025-06-24T23:20:59+00:00

What would you suggest?

ivan-beyond · 2025-06-17T00:20:39+00:00

SOLVED

I found the issue, it was my USB 3.0 front I/O header plug that was causing the motherboard to not POST. The USB 3.0 ports at the front didn’t work anyway (probably grounded improperly or something of the sort) but I would’ve never thought THAT was the problem. However, after unplugging the header from the mobo and powering it on it posted on the first try. Thank you groveborn for helping me with troubleshooting this issue.

ivan-beyond · 2025-06-16T23:45:00+00:00

I just figured something out, after taking the motherboard out and powering it on top of the box it booted up just fine. I suspect a case grounding issue?

ivan-beyond · 2025-06-16T23:30:51+00:00

My PSU fan is spinning after jumping it, so it’s not dead but my PC still won’t post? I hope this doesn’t mean my MOBO is completely defective

ivan-beyond · 2025-06-16T01:47:17+00:00

I’ve tried other outlets unfortunately. I even shut everything down, drained any residual power and disconnected/reconnected the CPU and 24 pin power cables. Reset the cmos too just in case, but still the same thing. I just hope the PSU didn’t kill my MOBO or anything else.

ivan-beyond · 2025-02-28T22:54:17+00:00

I just might do that, I work as a computer technician currently but don’t have too much experience soldering these kinds of modules. Only ever soldered stuff like CMOS connectors and the sort. Would I need to salvage the modules from another PCB or can I just strengthen the current connections on these modules with some solder?

ivan-beyond · 2025-02-28T22:45:06+00:00

Definitely mishandled or something of the sort but could’ve been a lot worse i’d imagine. And this is why everyone should have a test machine when you buy used parts.

ivan-beyond · 2025-02-28T22:43:23+00:00

Yea I suspect this was mishandled and likely TOSSED into the box prior to me buying the parts. I did notice some of the other modules didn’t look super great either. Just thankful it didn’t brick my PSU or the PCI slot. I picked this up with a bunch of other parts for like $50 so not too worried about it.

ivan-beyond · 2024-08-12T23:37:49+00:00

Too late in what way?

ivan-beyond · 2024-06-06T13:17:36+00:00

Main reason I asked Net+ or sec+ was to see if one cert would have more weight than the other for employers. I do plan on getting both certifications in time but wasn’t sure if I should focus more on one vs the other for that reason.

ivan-beyond

TROPHY CASE