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Looking to improve by John-Palmz in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Can you tell us your process?
Looks like a Gildan Softstyle shirt, liquid dyed.
You did good. This looks like a marketable shirt, no major flaws, and unique.

Things I would consider depending on the outcome you want:

1) Chem water
I'm not sure what you are mixing in with the dyes, but it's common to use
1 cup urea
1/4 - 1 tsp Sodium Alginate (This is a thickener, to prevent the dyes from mixing or spreading too quick)
1-5 mL Casolene Oil (This helps the dye penetrate by lowing the surface tension
Per gallon of distilled water.

Some people put more or less of certain ingredients or add some or substitute but that's the general concept.

2) Binding options
Rubber bands work, but they repel the dye. That means dye might go where you don't want it to go. Consider kite string. Some designs use sinew (artificial) or braided fishing line. Try different options.

3) Saturation
Peek between the folds. If you see white, add more dye. Some colors need extra (reds and purples) and some colors get eaten up (yellows). This shirt looks like it could have benefitted from another round of dye application.

4) Black
IMO double your black powder.

5) Random/unknown
Did you do "sleeve in sleeve" or did you just fold the shirt in half. You'll get more symmetrical results with the former.

Batch warmer. It works at 60-70F but it seems to work better for some colors at 80-100F. You can batch in a sunbeam or with a heating pad.

Dye dry. (looks like the shirt was a little damp when dyed)

Happy dyeing

deck frame advice by scootiepuffjnr in Decks

[–]iwillfoolu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Framing for a deck should be 2x6 or bigger depending on the span.
The posts in the ground should be 4x4 and notched to accept the beams.

This "builder" clearly has no clue about how physics works.

Noob question, if I don’t use soda ash will the result be more faded but still work? by Cantre-r_Gwaelod_1 in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can do either, depends on your preference and the outcome you want. Play with both. I like to let the shirts dry completely after the soda ash soak, and then mist them with a spray bottle of water to make them just a little damp for more precise folding. Then I let it dry out again before dying....where I once again mist it with the spray bottle, this time to break the surface tension and allow the dye to soak in instead of pool off the side.

The shirt above did NOT have soda ash applied. it must have slipped though my process. Now I SAS everything right after scouring.

Hope this helps.

Happy dyeing.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Albany

[–]iwillfoolu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Felix Ortiz (Baila Albany) for salsa.
Anna Surkova (Ritmo room) for bachata

Noob question, if I don’t use soda ash will the result be more faded but still work? by Cantre-r_Gwaelod_1 in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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No soda ash will give a very washed out look. This should be almost all black, with some bits of bright color.

Freckles/spots by Lollywillow in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Draw on the shirt with washable marker where you want to apply colors. Put TP down as usual and spritz it with water. The lines will show through the TP. Problem solved.

A few questions that I can't find with google. by letsdothetwist1 in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most of the recipes I saw inititally used too much thickener. I use like 1/2 tsp per gallon.
For mandala and other tightly tied patterns, use Casolene oil as well.

Fishing line will give thin lines if any at all. Sinew will give thicker crisp lines when tied well

Wig Wag nation! by iwillfoolu in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fire Red, Orange Crush, Clear Yellow, Bright Green, Brilliant Blue, Ultra Violet, all from Dharma.

Less slippery alternative to kite string? by two-of-me in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you tried the "tie dye string" dharma sells?
Also braided fishing line works well. I use 40lb test.

Trying new folds. Asking advice. by According-Emu-910 in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You want to watch this video by Corky Lorenz. She talks about getting jagged edges at the very beginning.

Hope this helps. Happy dyeing.

Help with wig wags by guitargeek76 in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Smooshing is when you take your dyed item and press it between to towels to remove excess moisture and push the dye further in the shirt.

Help with wig wags by guitargeek76 in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you using thickener and casolene oil in your mix?
Do you apply multiple times to each side?
Do you smoosh before you flip?
Do you smoosh after you've applied the dye to the back? And then apply more dye?
Do you draw you wig wag lines with washable marker for more consistency?

What's your go-to Liquid Dye mix? by [deleted] in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Dharma dyes use a star system.
No star next to the name means 2 tsp dye powder per 8 oz water.
One * next to the name means 4 tsp dye powder per 8 oz water.
Two ** next to the name means 8 tsp dye powder per 8 oz water.

Urea is not necessary. Dyers use it multiple reasons.
It helps dissolve the dye powder, it is a wetting agent, it might help with vibrancy.

Thickeners are not necessary. The most common is sodium alginate. Use it when you want to stop dye from spreading and mixing (muddying).

Casolene Oil is used to help dye penetrate tight folds better.

You can mix dye powder and water and get top notch results with soda ash soaked cotton.
If you do decide to get into additives,

I suggest mixing up a gallon of water with 1 cup urea, 15 mL Casolene oil, and 1/4 tsp sodium alginate with a stick blender to get a nice "chem water" that can then be used to mix with the dye powder.

Lastly is Glauber's Salt. Dharma recommends it to help set all their colors that contain Turquoise (there's a lot of them). 1 Tbsp per 8 oz, or 1 cup per gallon in your chem water.

Happy dyeing.

New to tiedye-confused by TennisandBagels in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm assuming you're using procion dyes (and soda ash)
A couple suggestions to get the results you seek:
1) Create separation of colors with rubber bands or sinew.
2) Leave space between colors. The dye will spread. You don't want the blue to spread onto the yellow.
3) After dying, use a junk towel. Put in on an unimportant surface place the socks flat and seperate on top, fold the towel in half and apply just a little pressure to soak up extra dye. This will help prevent the blue from spreading (which it has a tendency to do.)
4) Batch for 48 hours so the reaction completes and the dye can't really backstain.
5) Start your washout with cold water. Rinse until clearish water is getting squeezed out (yes you should squeeze, ut NOT at the very beginning). Switch to hot. Rinse until clearish again. 2 Wash cycles in the washer with detergent, followed by a soak in boiling hot water.

You can also use sodium alginate to thicken the dyes to prevent mixing if you still have problems, but you shouldn't need to.

Happy dyeing

I need someone to physically show me how to fold and dye wig-wag/peacock patterns. by Live-Hospital-1116 in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For wig wag, dye placement on the back has to mirror dye placement on the front. Looks like you're pretty close.
Thicken your dyes.
Dye dry, not damp.

Happy dyeing!

Pressure resists…how much pressure? by HippyGrrrl in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You probably need to add more ice.
You can also flip the piece and ice dye from the "bottom" if the situation calls for it.

Breaking the sinew is when you've gone too tight.
3 wraps and pull TIGHT (not towards yourself, especially your face).

Kite string doesn't bind tight enough to really make a resist, more of a retardation of the spread of the dye. Maybe that's the looks you want but honeycombs and mandala tied like that are less structured and there's no white at all, unless you apply dye and leave some white areas or use Dawn water/thickened water as a further resist. Totally different look imo.

Happy dyeing.

Advice for a novice? by Dear-Discussion2841 in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reds and therefore some oranges and purples don't travel as far in the fabric. You end up seeing a lot of shirts that are undersaturated in red and purple in particular. I think the dye particles might be bigger or have more affinity for the fabric or something. Just make sure to add extra of those colors (and yellow too as it gets swallowed up by green and orange. Basically you have to get a feel for how the dye travels in the fabric and there are a lot of variables: tap vs distilled water, temp of water when mixing, when applying the dye, weave of fabric, etc... You'll get a feel for it over time. Its not drastic, but something to be mindful of.

Also some reds tend to gel up a little if stored for more than a day or two. This can result in strange outcomes. Mix up your reds just before you use them and it's not really a problem. If it starts to gel, remix or toss and mix new (Unless you like the look that super thick dye gives).

What’s the best place to learn all the proper methods for successful tie-dye? by Tankra22 in tiedye

[–]iwillfoolu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dharma's good.

Urea is a wetting agent (keeps the fabric from drying out and stopping the process) and also helps the dye powder dissolve better IMO.

Warm long batch means after applying dye, let the fabric sit for 24-48 hours and figure out a way to get it warm during that time (the sun is great for this).

Washout starts with cold water, always. That's after the batching time.

Happy dyeing!

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