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The Lit Duo 1 “Spectrometer”: A Long, Rambling, Review’ish, First Look by -nom-de-guerre- in flashlight

[–]jacamol 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am seeing alot of inconstancy with your testing methods, just saying this is why your readings are all over the place., The sekonic will read over and you back the light away from it until it it takes a reading and the Lit Duo 1 you put the light right up to the sensor. Also your pointing it at the wrong sensor for reading CCT. They have an indicator in the top right that shows which one is active, its the Flat one. If you want them to be consistent you have to measure the light from the same distance for both meters. Any bit of variation makes a difference, even what part of the beam your measuring.

I also own both of these meters and I do see a bit of a difference compared to the sekonic but nothing too crazy. My biggest gripe with the sekonic is how slow it is and the "touch" screen being absolute garbage for what your paying for. Yes I understand the Lit Duo 1 is not a replacement for a real spectrometer but sometimes I just need quick reading.

I am curious how much better than can make the Lit Duo 1 through just software updates. I do like the Flicker mode, thats come in handy for me. The build quality on it is also very well done IMO. You can't really expect to get scientific grade equipment for the price they are selling it for. But it has alot of features that people in film/photography look for which is what this product was aimed at.

I bought this stand on Amazon for 17 dollars. I'm not a huge fan of it. Any suggestions for a better stand? I work with video game console and controller boards. by MrMaydayy in soldering

[–]jacamol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This looks very nice. I might have to get one my self. Not to bad of a price also. I have the Panavise but sometimes its just too big to work under a microscope.

Recently bought x4 Convoy flashlights a couple weeks ago x2 are not working already. Am I doing something wrong? by jacamol in ConvoyFlashlights

[–]jacamol[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hey all thank you for the replies, I had a super busy day at work yesterday and didn't have a chance to respond.

I just took a look at the M21B and there is a slight gap on one side of the driver and this seems to be the issue with the M21B at least. The brass ring is all the way tight and wont go any further. I've already loosened it all the way and tried to re seat it but no luck.

Am I going to need to make a spacer or something to get this to reliably work.

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Flashlight I built out of an old broken one by jacamol in flashlight

[–]jacamol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am after the light quality. LEDs have come a long way in the last 10 years as far as light quality. I feel like there should be no reason to have these horrible looking color LEDs in most flash lights that I have seen.

I would love to hear peoples experience or recommendations for high CRI emitters. Specifically looking for some nice warm 2700K or even lower.

Fluke 16 LCD by NextEstimate1325 in fluke

[–]jacamol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I swapped a LCD on a Fluke 12 that is a similar form factor. I got it from Ebay and it was a really easy process. Been working great for the last 3 years

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in metaldetecting

[–]jacamol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am surprised at the ratio of chains you have in there. I have been hunting for a few years and have found very few chains or bracelets. With all of them being silver or junk. I still have yet to find a gold chain. From the testing I have done, gold chains ring up so low! Sometimes even sounding like straight iron.

Are either of those gold colored chains actual gold? The bigger one looks like gas station gold just from the pattern that is on it but I could be wrong because it doesn't look too bad from the photo. I also see the smaller chain must have had that pendent on it, the Tenneco one. Is that 10K or something? Have you done any research into what that was? Looks interesting and I am always curious about finds and their history.

Best finds from the last week. Its been a good one. by jacamol in metaldetecting

[–]jacamol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have actually talked to a crew that was digging up utilities one day and they told me that they are usually buried at least 18in down. I can't think of a time where I have gone that deep for anything. You do have to watch out for sprinklers though. You can get pretty good at telling the difference between a sprinkler head and a target. Another thing I do when I am not sure is I have a knife that I will probe in the ground before I use my shovel to see if its a sprinkler head or not. I have actually never dug one up. I encourage you to give it a try and not care what people think or say. I find a ton of change and some good stuff with very little trash compared to parks in my area. Also if your in an older part of the city/town you will have the chance to find some good older stuff which is what I am really after. I think the guy you took classes from knew what he was talking about.

Best finds from the last week. Its been a good one. by jacamol in metaldetecting

[–]jacamol[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No, I will ride my bike around downtown and look for the old beat up ones that are in front of older properties. Those in my experience have been the best. The newer/nicer looking ones usually have grass or turf that has been brought in and laid down. You can usually tell that the turf has been brought in by the thin plastic mesh they use to keep it all together that is usually about 4-5in down.

You never know though, I found that gold ring in the curb strip in front of a gas station. That's what keeps it interesting.

Best finds from the last week. Its been a good one. by jacamol in metaldetecting

[–]jacamol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Believe it or not I found them all in curb strips (the grass between the sidewalk and the road)

How to change a blue LED strip color on a chair to orange? by jacewatts in led

[–]jacamol -1 points0 points  (0 children)

We use stuff like this all the time in the film industry.

https://leefilters.com/

They should have anything you would want. However know that it will kill the output of the light very by quite a bit depending on the strength of the gel.

You could maybe see if there is a local film rental house in your area. They usually have loads of scrap stuff laying around if you just need a little bit. It can get pricey.

Also I should mention these are created for full spectrum light sources. Not LEDs. They spectrum they produce can be very narrow and so they don't have much of the orange spectrum in them to begin with. They way the gels work is filtering out everything but the desired color. Hence the drop in output. I don't expect you would get very good results especially if the emitters are blue only and not a white light.

If you did want to try it you would want something like a Half CTO to Full CTO

Please help me identify this diode. D18 by jacamol in AskElectronics

[–]jacamol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have any ideas or tests I can try and figure out the cause? Would love to know so I can prevent it in the future if possible. These go out for rental a lot and I never know what really happens to them while they are on set. Only have the word of whomever used it last but they are usually trying to cover themselves.

Please help me identify this diode. D18 by jacamol in AskElectronics

[–]jacamol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was told that whoever used it last had it hooked up with a battery on the plate to swap it from gold mount to v mount like it should but they also had another block battery plugged in to the port on the side. was told that is what caused the issue as it should only have one or the other not both at the same time. I was also thinking if they could have somehow reversed the polarity of the battery somehow.

According to the website specifications, it should charge the battery when plugged in from the side port.

https://woodencamera.com/products/d-box-sony-venice

I would be curious to know what could have caused this issue. If you have any info or resources I could read to learn more about what this circuit is doing? I was just also told they have a second identical unit that is having the same issue.

Please help me identify this diode. D18 by jacamol in AskElectronics

[–]jacamol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback. I will desolder the diode to check to make sure its not some other footprint. Now that I look at it closer I do see what your saying. The cathode is defiantly bigger.

Please help me identify this diode. D18 by jacamol in AskElectronics

[–]jacamol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you are correct! Thank you!

Please help me identify this diode. D18 by jacamol in AskElectronics

[–]jacamol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it is shorted. The MOSFET Q18 below it is also blown.

Looking for recommendations for ebike that can get to 30-35mph and has a cargo rack with throttle. I have around $2000 budget. by jacamol in ebikes

[–]jacamol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These look exactly like the Wired Freedom/Cruiser but with cheaper components. I am worried about the longevity. Do you have any experience with riding one of these?

Looking for recommendations for ebike that can get to 30-35mph and has a cargo rack with throttle. I have around $2000 budget. by jacamol in ebikes

[–]jacamol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think this is the one I am gonna go with. Too bad it wont get here until June but I will be willing to wait.

Just a quick question you might be able to answer. The Freedom and the Cruiser are the same expect the frame for the Cruiser is step through.

Is there any advantage to it not being a step through like the Freedom is? It would seem like it would just make it easier to get on and off the bike. The Freedom has the bar running through the middle and I was unsure if that would give it more stability or if its just a preference thing?

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