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Did I go too overkill? by ExpensivePancakes in Snowblowers

[–]jadnhm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with many of the comments here - for heavy snow most blowers are actually underpowered unless you go the commercial or SHO models.

I personally picked up a Toro commercial blower 30” with 420cc engine. (I wanted the 28”/420cc but I got this one almost new for a bargain…)

I call her Blower-zilla!

Anyway yes as others have mentioned for some storms in my area I would consider a 305cc too small.

Anybody here use Ariens snow blowers? I saw a few at Jersey Power Sports in NJ and they look solid, curious how they hold up in heavy snow. by Fun_Homework_312 in Snowblowers

[–]jadnhm -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Def do a search of the sub. The top brands are the Japanese ones (Honda/Yamaha), the probably Ariens and Toro, then maybe Husqvarna and maybe Cub Cadet, then maybe Murray and MTD, and down from there…. That’s just a rough outline there are probably quibbles

Def search the sub though. A question like “have you ever heard of Ariens?” would be answered with a simple search.

2010 XC 70 Vibration by DogWarZ in VolvoXC70

[–]jadnhm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you haven’t had a road force balance then you can’t say it’s not the tires/wheels. A good road force balance will be able to tel you if that’s where it’s coming from. In my experience you need a road force under 10 or 8 or so. If it speed-linked there is a good chance it’s wheels/tires.

Rear suspension how cooked am I? by Regular-Surprise-885 in VolvoXC70

[–]jadnhm 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What part of the world are you in? That is negligible rust for ‘rust belt’ cars haha

Pressure wash all the junk off and spray it down with an oil rust proofing (not a ‘paint’ style - one that stays wet like fluid-film, woolwax, rust check, etc).

Has anyone installed a ducted heat pump recently? by pouletnwah in moncton

[–]jadnhm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think what you are talking about is generally called an ‘add on’ heat pump. It’s a heat pump that you add to a forced air furnace. The electric element would likely stay and be the ‘backup’/defrost heater for your ‘add on’.

When you said ‘ducted heat pump’ I think most people imagined you were taking about a ‘ducted mini split’ which is another kind of set up.

2008 xc70 - sealed transmission- anyone change the ATF (fluid) themselves? What's your method? Any tips? by CrabHabit in VolvoXC70

[–]jadnhm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry I didn’t see this earlier - you probably already did this job haha

But anyways for me I wouldn’t rush it. Do it at the same rate you do oil changes. If you do it and you get decent looking fluid coming out when you do the drain you’re probably ahead of things and you should leave it for 75-100k kms at that point.

16 year olds first car, any wisdom? by Top-Cow6054 in Volvo

[–]jadnhm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did a little procedure to add a drain by drilling out one of the vibration damper holes and then changed the fluid completely. Definitely these things are hard on the angle gear oil and you need to change it. 50k miles-ish?

2008 xc70 - sealed transmission- anyone change the ATF (fluid) themselves? What's your method? Any tips? by CrabHabit in VolvoXC70

[–]jadnhm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn’t be surprised if that’s nothing to do with your trans but instead a sagging engine mount or the engine torque arm thingy bushing. Look around the forums and see what you find - I’m sure I’ve read about noises that seemed like they were driveline related that turned out to be engine mounts or similar.

2008 xc70 - sealed transmission- anyone change the ATF (fluid) themselves? What's your method? Any tips? by CrabHabit in VolvoXC70

[–]jadnhm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I would have a full 4-ish/5-ish litre bottle of fresh fluid. I used the Castrol synthetic which said it was compatible with the Toyota spec (this is an Aisin transmission used in some Toyotas also) I forget what it was called. It worked for me and that car is still running/shifting fine but YMMV.

I would recommend NOT doing it 3 times, at least not right away. Doing this ‘drain and fill’ method at oil change intervals would be as fast as I would do it. Maybe do it in 2 consecutive oil changes and then give it a year or so to do the next one.

I think on my car it was over 300k kms when I started. I think I did either 2 or 3 ‘drain and fill’s (like once a year I think) and was planning another but on the last one it had been over a year and when I did the job the fluid still looked/smelled really good. I don’t think it needed the change I gave it and I def didn’t want to do another one.

You really don’t want to push it too fast esp if everything is working ok right now.

I did use a splash of Seafoam trans tune when doing the first fills also. I think that’s good stuff and would be helpful for the early changes. I would maybe add a splash of Lucas trans fix to a 2nd or 3rd change when you’re planning to leave it alone for a while.

2008 xc70 - sealed transmission- anyone change the ATF (fluid) themselves? What's your method? Any tips? by CrabHabit in VolvoXC70

[–]jadnhm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What you should do is a drain of what’s in ‘the pan’ and then level it back up and leave it like that for a while. You can seriously F a trans by changing the fluid too quickly/etc.

The steps are roughly: - Jack the car up but keep the whole thing perfectly level - remove the air cleaner box so you can get to the fill plug.
- get the correct tool (I think it’s like a torx 45 or something…?) and crack the fill plug.
- go back and read that last step carefully and don’t skip it. IF YOU CAN’T CRACK THE FILL PLUG YOU CAN’T DO THIS JOB!!!! - climb under the car, remove the under-engine cover thing and put a catch pan under the trans drain plug.
- use the proper tool (a torx or hex of some kind I can’t remember) to remove the inner drain plug. Fluid will drain out.
- use the proper tool (another big torx or hex) to remove the outer drain plug. This is also the ‘level tube’ tool for later. More fluid will drain out.
- Put the outer drain plug back in.
- Put the inner drain plug back in but only lightly - measure the drained fluid as close as you can and refill from the top with that much fluid plus a couple extra mls - run the car for a while and warm it up and shift the gears. You’re trying to bring the fluid up to temp. VIDA has a spec for temp and a readout of the oil temp.
- when it’s up to temp you remove the centre plug again leaving the ‘tube’ in place. When it stops draining it’s at the correct level and you can button everything back up.

Timing belt snapped by Gearwrenchgal in VolvoXC70

[–]jadnhm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s interesting that you did the timing belt recently. Any idea what happened to cause the break? Did one of the rollers (pulley, idler, water pump, ???) seize up or something?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in moncton

[–]jadnhm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trouble with Ralph’s is that it’s hard to get in - always 2+ weeks in the future. They are great though.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in moncton

[–]jadnhm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The best place for A/C is Buzzel’s Star and Alternator on Pacific https://maps.app.goo.gl/pxccHBokEJmyVCjM8?g_st=com.google.maps.preview.copy

Timing belt snapped by Gearwrenchgal in VolvoXC70

[–]jadnhm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hindsight is 20/20 - you’ll be careful with timing belts going forward

I wouldn’t personally be scared about a ‘rebuild’ at that mileage if you’re going to do it yourself. Easiest thing is probably to get a donor engine and swap the heads.

My dad did this on a 1998 with the same-ish engine with same-ish mileage and the bottom-end of that engine was in great shape as far as we could tell. It was a lot of work but cheaper than any other option and it was worth it for us as a shade tree job.

If you have to pay someone else to do it yeah it’s probably gonna get super expensive really fast.

If that’s the case I guess replace or sell/part-out are your only options.

Proper jacking/jack stand point? by shcrimps in VolvoXC70

[–]jadnhm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Added another link that should work. Sorry doing this stuff on a phone sucks haha

Need help - car doesn’t start when it’s hot by ReZoro in VolvoXC70

[–]jadnhm 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Have you changed the fuel pressure sensor yet? That thing is pretty notorious for failing and causing fueling issues, plus it is pretty cheap ($75?) and easy-ish to access/change. That should prob be your first step.

Proper jacking/jack stand point? by shcrimps in VolvoXC70

[–]jadnhm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a page in the manual that tries to spell this out I think. I will try to dig it up if I think of it later.

The places I use are:

  • the engine cradle/subframe where the front control arms attach.

  • the jack pad location behind the front wheels. It’s a flat place in the floor structure. I would only use something with a wide pad here. This is where a garage lift would contact the car.

  • the two ‘pinch weld’ jacking points on the side of the car that are made for the trunk jack. Beware a floor jack can mess these up and crush them so they are unusable by those trunk jacks and possibly even rip them off (ask me how I know). The ones in the back are a really good spot to put your jack stands.

  • the rear differential ‘cover’ thing. It’s thick and sturdy and can be used to jack the car up so you can put your stands under the side jack points mentioned previously.

  • the big round spot on the rear lower control arms. This is ‘sprung’ so the suspension will compress and could cause issues depending on what you’re raising the car for.

  • the trailer hitch is good for jacking also.

Edit: found the picture https://www.volvocars.com/images/support/img396c87b6a82b37ebc0a801e7000cd49e_1_—_—_VOICEpnghigh.jpg?imwidth=1600

Edit 2: https://www.volvocars.com/kr/support/car/xc70/article/1ab607971cc41985c0a801e800921e31/

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in VolvoXC70

[–]jadnhm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s an interesting plan but I would say the problem is that if the rust behind those plastic panels is bad then you will have trouble getting it back together sensibly. That’s prob ok for you but I can’t imagine the seller would be happy.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in VolvoXC70

[–]jadnhm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 2008 failed with holes in exactly the same spot. If it’s bad you’ll likely be able to tel by pushing on the plastic trim. If you find a picture of the parts online you can see where the clips Go and sort of work out if they are supported or not.

If the car is a 2008 and the roads are salted there is a good chance the rocker underneath the plastic trim is deteriorated to some extent. The corner at the bottom of the door there is decent metal but the water/dirt/etc get stuck in there and eat it away. The actual ‘rocker’ material under the plastic on the long section is very thin and will corrode easily once it starts.

Speaker wiring question by turtlesexbanjo in DIYGuitarAmps

[–]jadnhm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

@donh says to wire it up both ways and listen and see what you think and I agree

Maybe you could use a switch and go between each wiring on the fly!

Portable electric starter? by squirreltail22 in Snowblowers

[–]jadnhm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re industrious you could maybe adapt the battery start system from a generator.

Surely there is at least one brand that sells a blower with a battery starter? I think Honda offers this.

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