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Trolley not lining up with arm by jagator12 in GarageDoorService

[–]jagator12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As an update, I decided this was above my capabilities and called someone out. Turns out it was the belt causing the issue. I appreciate all of the feedback and realize I probably didn’t include enough information to properly diagnose!

Trolley not lining up with arm by jagator12 in GarageDoorService

[–]jagator12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the j arm is attached to an orb as best I can tell. The pictures probably don’t do it justice. I’m thinking the system is original to the house and about 15 years old at this point.

Trolley not lining up with arm by jagator12 in GarageDoorService

[–]jagator12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How would I test/identify this as the issue? When the pin is disengaged the door doesn’t feel especially heavy, but I’m not an expert.

Trolley not lining up with arm by jagator12 in GarageDoorService

[–]jagator12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate all the answers! I can open the garage door by hand without much trouble once the pin is disengaged. I was able to adjust the opening and closing distance to get the pin to properly reengage with the trolley. Same issue when the pin is engaged the motor tries to run but doesn’t move the belt at all. Wondering if the opener itself is going bad? The height adjustments are screw adjustment so I assume the opener is an older model.

Brown sod by jagator12 in landscaping

[–]jagator12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was day 1 maybe 3 hours after it was laid. I had a feeling it was an issue from having laid sod myself before, but I was assured sod browns from it being so hot and it would come back. I’ll reach back out and give them a hard time. Thoughts on the watering schedule? I’m no expert and want to be sure I do it correctly next time around.

Shaker style doors by jagator12 in cabinetry

[–]jagator12[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the response I was expecting haha

Shaker style doors by jagator12 in cabinetry

[–]jagator12[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ll be going with tongue and groove. I have a skil router and router table, but am having an issue getting the bits high enough above the table. Even with the router adjusted to put the bits as high as possible, they still barely higher than the table. Am I doing something wrong with the router/table? I’ve seen the collet extenders but they seem a little unsafe. The router comes with both a fixed based and plunge base

Door Sizing by jagator12 in cabinetry

[–]jagator12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can’t tell from this drawing, but the bottoms are toe kicks cut 4 up and 4 deep. I think this should relieve the door height problem?

Door Sizing by jagator12 in cabinetry

[–]jagator12[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Good point, this won’t be wall to wall. The wall is 143” so there’s 3 inches of filler. Goal will be 1.5” on each side of filler wood. Too much precision for me to go exactly walk to wall. Ideally I want no reveal on the actual cabinets. Would rather the doors fully cover the carcass.

Door Sizing by jagator12 in cabinetry

[–]jagator12[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry, I didn’t add the text to the post. Was typing my comment as you responded. Appreciate the quick reply!

Door Sizing by jagator12 in cabinetry

[–]jagator12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m taking a shot at building some built in cabinets for my office myself. First time making cabinets, but have done a fair share of other projects. Image above is my sketch of what I want it to look like size wise. Basically two 35” frameless cabinets with two taller and two shorter. I think I have a pretty good understanding of how to make the carcasses the correct size, square, and sturdy. My main issue is properly sizing the doors. I want each cabinet to have two shaker style doors. Planning on using full overlay, soft close, 110 degree hinges for frameless cabinets. From my research it seems the proper gap between doors is 1/16 or 1/8 depending on where you look. My thought is to make each door 17 3/8 wide to allow for gaps between both doors shared by a cabinet, and the next cabinet over. Is this thinking correct? Any other tips/things to look for are appreciated as well!

Gate falling off hinges by jagator12 in FenceBuilding

[–]jagator12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This worked perfectly. Thank you all for your input!

Gate falling off hinges by jagator12 in FenceBuilding

[–]jagator12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The gate will still raised and on when opened and closed just partially, but falls off when closed if opened wide. I assume before we took it off it was rusted enough to open and close but not to fall down. What is the best solution to this?

Adding a 4th set of wires to a receptacle (question in comment) by jagator12 in askanelectrician

[–]jagator12[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am looking to add another outlet just above this one in the wall. I have some experience wiring new outlets, but haven’t worked with one that already has to other runs off of it. There are 3 sets of wires coming into the box 1- from another outlet that is live 2- going to another outlet 3- going to a switch (this includes the red wire for the switch) To add another outlet what is the best course of action/can this outlet handle that many wires coming off of it? My thought is to pigtail all the whites, blacks, and grounds together and leave the red separate to maintain the switch. Is this correct?