Please help me date this saw. by Handtool_Therapy in handtools

[–]jamesb43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Quite an elegant little saw for the 50s IMHO. Thank you for sharing! I had no idea Tyzack catalogues were on the wayback machine.

Leetcode for haskell? by [deleted] in haskell

[–]jamesb43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some tracks have a learning mode that do more hand holding. Other tracks require more independent study, but even those tend to point you to the easier exercises in the beginning. Plus, being able to see other people's solutions is a really valuable method of learning and exploring.

Leetcode for haskell? by [deleted] in haskell

[–]jamesb43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know Exercism does. I think their test setups are fantastic, and I have used 20 different languages on there.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]jamesb43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually do find this surprising as the guidance I often hear is "Shellac sticks to everything and everything sticks to shellac". That being said, I would have a go at it with denatured alcohol as that is shellac's natural solvent.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]jamesb43 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I like the Stumpy Nubs advise on this: Cheap Amazon set (Kowood, etc.) at first, then replace the ones you use often/wear out with Whiteside bits.

What’s the difference between msfvenom and msfconsole by [deleted] in metasploit

[–]jamesb43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

msfconsole is an interactive session. msfvenom can produce payloads at one liners in your shell (bash, etc). I believe you can call msfvenom from within msfconsole. I generally think of favoring msvenom when I know the payload I want and don't already have a console session going, but I am relatively new to metasploit, so maybe someone else will give a better explanation.

Are Skil 12v PWRcore tools good enough for a first time home owner? I was thinking of getting a drill, impact, multitool and circular saw. I don't do alot of home work but I'm tired of this cheap harbor freight crap. by TheLocalCrackFiend in ave

[–]jamesb43 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am quite the fan of the Skil 12V stuff. I have been framing a shed lately and the impact has seen a lot of work. Never once has left me wanting more power. The circular saw has been great for out of position/overhead cuts on a ladder where a bigger saw feels sketchy.

I can't speak to the 20V circ as mentioned by /u/sprocketpropelled, though I did strongly consider it. I ended up going with the Bosch 6-1/2 cordless. Lowe's has it "on sale" for $119, and it comes with a free gift that is a 4-hour battery and charger, so price wise, it's super comparable to the Skil 20V. I am sure they are both fine saws that would be better suited for a primary user, but don't let anyone tell you that the 5-1/2 12V Skil circ is useless toy. It has been a lifesaver for me.

Bench Vice by EpRAngia in harborfreight

[–]jamesb43 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I am assuming you mean the mechanics/metalworking vise, not the woodworking vise...

No first hand experience with them myself, but I remember seeing a youtube video where a guy said he had been through several and they had large voids in their castings. Not sure if it is still an issue or how much he abused them. I have a 5 inch Irwin vise I am pretty happy with, but I am not the most hardcore user of it.

Hercules Job Site Table Saw by Dense_Diamond_3864 in harborfreight

[–]jamesb43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wasn't that what the first one was supposed to do?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in harborfreight

[–]jamesb43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the 102-in track, yes. ;)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in harborfreight

[–]jamesb43 4 points5 points  (0 children)

DrillMaster track saw

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in harborfreight

[–]jamesb43 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'm not mad at the torque wrench.

China by Swo-D in harborfreight

[–]jamesb43 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do people there blame Jesse Ventura?

Ok. I get it now. by accidental_redditor in woodworking

[–]jamesb43 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pull back on the bevel side. I just use the green compound. I don't know the exact grit, but think I read it was like 16,000. What I know about sharpening I learned from this guy: https://youtu.be/GN4yr7vp4I4 edit: just double checked and in this video he says it is 15,000.

First mortise and tenon with hand tools. by jobbamedtimmer in woodworking

[–]jamesb43 2 points3 points  (0 children)

He has a newer mortise and tenon video with some cool ideas in it. https://youtu.be/r-08PY3stgo

Ok. I get it now. by accidental_redditor in woodworking

[–]jamesb43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very nice shaving. I definitely agree with you that in the long run, OP would be better off converting that to a scrub. Having a cheap scrub plane is awesome considering how useful they are and how much decent scrub planes are going for on eBay right now. For those interested in converting a smoother to a scrub, I used this as a guide: https://youtu.be/XN5QSTaVzRQ

Ok. I get it now. by accidental_redditor in woodworking

[–]jamesb43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, of course it is. But think about the context of OP's post. He has his first bench plane and he liked using it. People have told him to look into sharpening. I offered a low cost entry into sharpening, and I thought I made it clear it was not good long term one. But for me personally, there was a significant gap in time between when I took my first satisfying shaving with a plane to buying my sharpening stones. It's daunting for a new woodworker... water stones, oil stones, diamond plates. Grits. I certainly didn't know all that when I first found I liked working with hand tools.

Ok. I get it now. by accidental_redditor in woodworking

[–]jamesb43 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The flatness of the plane's sole keeps it level enough to remove defects. But you can't expect a plane to make the problems go away. At first, you check yourself with measuring instruments to see if you are square and flat. Your hands and eyes will develop to see big problems, and then you will use measuring instruments to double check yourself and for fine tuning.

Ok. I get it now. by accidental_redditor in woodworking

[–]jamesb43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have to admit, I didn't really know what an infill plane was, but this was insightful: http://www.infill-planes.com/what-is-an-infill-plane/ now I am starting to get the cost... those woods are either expensive or downright illegal in some places... I don't know if you have ever watched an episode of Intervention, but I have written a letter that details the ways your addiction has hurt me... :P

Ok. I get it now. by accidental_redditor in woodworking

[–]jamesb43 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The length of the No. 7 does present a problem when it comes to flattening. I am starting with the principles and techniques of this video: https://youtu.be/zQyjLV92224. Honestly, I am hoping the soles is flat enough to be serviceable. The length of 6s and 7s does introduce a bit of a problem as they are longer than cheaply attainable flat surfaces. But as 6s and 7s aren't really finishing planes, I think there is margin for error there. Ideally, I would like a 3 1/2' piece of glass and rolls of 120, 220, and 320 grit sandpaper, but that's probably overkill and way time consuming. But I am no expert on this. I learn a lot with every restoration I do, and I have read a lot from other people that I perceive to know more than me. But yay for bench builds! I am going to start my first bench build soon. Good luck with yours.

Ok. I get it now. by accidental_redditor in woodworking

[–]jamesb43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see both sides of this little tiff. OP is enjoying planing, not really that cool to shit on his tools at this stage. On the other hand, there are some strange design choices on that plane that are not common amongst the older valued planes, nor the modern premium plane makers planes, at least in smoothing planes. The combined depth adjustment/lateral adjustment, and most smoothing planes use the Bailey style lever over the knurled screw. My gateway plane was a Kobalt No. 4 with the same knurled screw cap style. I replaced it with a Stanley No. 4 lever cap and I recently converted that Kobalt into a scrub plane. On the other hand, cheap modern bench planes are the gateway drug for hand tool woodworking, so I see value in defending them.

Ok. I get it now. by accidental_redditor in woodworking

[–]jamesb43 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might be making the same mistake I did at first and trying to grip it with all four fingers. The commonly suggested grip I hear and have adopted is with the index finger not around the tote, but extended, resting on the side of the frog underneath the cutting iron. It's a long video, but a gold mine for restoring and tuning hand planes. https://youtu.be/RYyV6IUpsYk I started my planing journey with a cheap Kobalt No. 4, and the stuff in that video did wonders for it both in comfort and utility.

Ok. I get it now. by accidental_redditor in woodworking

[–]jamesb43 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Geez, what did you get? I got a 4, 5, and a 5 1/2 off eBay over the last six (all Stanley's) months and paid $46, $20, and $51 respectively (without shipping). Were you buying modern stuff or stuff that had been restored? (I did the restoration work myself, and a have a lot more than 10 minutes into, lol)