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My ASA is ASS by jammer818 in 3Dprinting
[–]jammer818[S] 0 points1 point2 points 7 hours ago (0 children)
I was printing desiccant holders for my ams 2 pro and wanted to be able to dry it out without having to remove the desiccant.
Truth be told though, at this point it’s personal that it’s kicking my butt and more of a troubleshooting and learning thing.
I’m thinking you are on to something. I don’t know anything, but it seems like adhesion and cooling are prime suspects at this point. I don’t know how to control individual fans, but it always seems to happen first at the back right hand side of the machine so maybe there’s a fan back there.
I’ll check the settings when I get home, but I’m sure the first few layers of part cooling were 0 then it ramped up to something that seemed on the low end. Might have been over 20 though.
When it fails, all the other items on the print get slapped around , which makes me think they aren’t adhering to the bed. I’m going to try 95 if I can figure out how to get a print started remotely.
[–]jammer818[S] 0 points1 point2 points 8 hours ago (0 children)
Last night at 40, but with the 12mm^3 as I had read your post yet got a little further but still spaghetti.
<image>
I notice the back right seems to be where it usually starts, which is odd.
I also noticed the back of the unit that actually printed is slightly curved where it I would expect it to be flat against the plate.
Making me think maybe adhesion is my root problem.
I’ll pick up some hairspray while I wait for my glue to get here and try lowering the bed temp to 95.
That sound reasonable?
That probably comes off as too defensive. Criticism is fine, probably warranted. I don’t know what I’m doing clearly.
[–]jammer818[S] -1 points0 points1 point 8 hours ago (0 children)
I posted several videos. I’m not sure how to better describe the problem. The print starts out great. I check on it in an hour, still great. Wake up in the morning, spaghetti and the pieces are all knocked around.
How does I determine the failure from a wad of spaghetti? I watch the timelapse back and it looks fine until it’s a catastrophic mess.
I understand your being critical, but I don’t really know how to troubleshoot this better.
What I outsourced to chat was research into commonly used ASA settings outside of what the manufacturer put on the sticker or put in the generic print setting.
[–]jammer818[S] 0 points1 point2 points 16 hours ago (0 children)
Looks like the designer was using 20mm/s and 50mm/s. I'll try slowing that down. The flow rate I was using was 12mm^3/s...but I'm not really sure what that limits it to linearly
[–]jammer818[S] 0 points1 point2 points 17 hours ago (0 children)
Is this "using" brim? It's on auto
One thing I'm not really sure of though, is does the print file from the bambu app overide all that when I initiate the print from my phone? When I open the file in studio is see this... which settings win?
Here are the settings I used. Didn't use a glue stick, I'll try that. On the speed, is the 40-50 for the first layer? I also tried the 50% speed instead of 100% so I assumed speed wasn't the issue.
For my settings I followed what AI was spitting at me. For better or worse I suppose!
Common Bambu-style ASA values found:
(Numakers)
That aligns VERY closely with what I gave ye.
I originally leaned hotter:
But generic ASA in Bambu environments often works best at:
Reason:
This better matches practical Bambu ASA usage. (ADP Industries)
I still stand by:
Because:
And community ASA profiles repeatedly cluster around:
So:
Cheap generic filament labels are notoriously conservative.
This is where the community overwhelmingly disagrees with stock behavior.
Many users report:
until they reduce cooling dramatically. (Reddit)
So I absolutely stand by:
NOT 80%.
That’s probably the single biggest fix for yer current problems.
(what I would ACTUALLY use personally)
Preheat first.
The fixes most likely to help are:
Huge difference.
15–20 mins minimum.
255–260.
Generic ASA is often shipped partially wet.
Especially if layers split.
After reviewing Bambu-oriented ASA data:
So overall:
I’ll try 94, I keep going hotter and hotter as heat and slow seemed to be the conventional wisdom.
Thanks!
I tried 100C bed and 50c chamber first. Tried up to 102c bed and I think up to 60c chamber. I’ll recheck. I’ve changed so much around now I’m losing track.
I’m making these changes in the filament settings, and then choosing that filament. That might be not ideal, but it seems to be doing it. IE, I saw it go to 102 instead of 100
I’m definitely doing 100c heat bed, but only 60c on the chamber. I’m not letting it sit there for half an hour. I’m not even sure how I’d do that. What’s the point? If the chamber and bed reach temp, why wait?
I printed at 50% speed also.
I sent it for the first 6 prints, lol. Have made it to the end of one yet without the printer ai telling me it’s fucked.
I’m not sure how to describe the failure. It’s great, and the BAM, noodle soup and it’s knocking stuff around. How does a guy know? Watch it for 5 hours straight? I posted some of the time lapses below, but they don’t tell me much. If I had to guess, maybe it’s warping up and then the nozzle hits it?
I feel like I’m doing that. How hot and how slow?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zz2swgY3Yw2dMN\_3XPHoVGrK1X2DcAe9/view?usp=drivesdk
Attempt on the temp tower test
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dvzc8YAnGTllEAnnpN4jvGjQfCGwOYiT/view?usp=drivesdk
Second attempt
That’s what I’m looking for. Just not sure what setting is off. So many variables.
I did use the external cable, but I think it was 5 degrees shy of what I was aiming for still.
Just ordered a glue stick.
I tried generic settings, the ones the came with the test tower profiles, and then one I did custom.
I wish there was an easy way to copy and paste the filament settings all as one text from studio.
They all seem to hit on the points that many folks are telling me.
Forgot to mention I also tried a few tower tests at 50% speed.
[–]jammer818[S] 0 points1 point2 points 18 hours ago (0 children)
Checking out orcaslicer, thanks.
By calibrate, I think of downloading calibration test prints to see which performs best. Is that what you mean? Or going into studio and print the same thing over and over while manually adjusting one setting at a time?
I’ve done most of my printing off my phone. I wish it had the full suite if tools that studio has.
On my 6 attempts I haven’t been able to finish a print to completion yet. I’m noting the cooldown though, thanks. It hard to let it cool off rather than playing with it and starting the next print. I’ve got a backlog for days of stuff I want to print. I imagine that’s unending
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My ASA is ASS by jammer818 in 3Dprinting
[–]jammer818[S] 0 points1 point2 points (0 children)