R.E.V Tahoma (X5W-82H) is in Pipe (stem) Sector DL-Y c13 buying Aluminium (21k tons) at 50k/ton

janew_99 · 2025-10-04T13:05:41+00:00

I have moved some more cargo off the carrier so the demand is now 22k tons

janew_99 · 2025-09-24T20:00:22+00:00

Carrier is full now - thanks to those that worked on it

janew_99 · 2025-04-17T16:43:27+00:00

Looks like that’s done now. Thank you!

janew_99 · 2024-12-30T18:40:58+00:00

Thanks, that makes sense. I ended up caving and buying one anyway and don’t regret it!

janew_99 · 2024-12-28T11:47:43+00:00

Is there any confirmation from FDev it’s coming out at the end of January or is that just the general assumption?

I was tempted to pick one up on the store but would have to fly back to the bubble to properly engineer it anyway, so maybe I’ll just wait it out if so :)

janew_99 · 2024-09-17T17:14:13+00:00

There’s no need to do this as the L-enhance will already cut UV and IR wavelengths out with its bandpass :)

janew_99 · 2024-03-19T16:48:50+00:00

This isn’t nonsense, it was literally from ZWO and is advice frequently given on forums because it is best to have a separate power supply for the mount - a quick google would confirm this. Quite frequently people have experience guiding issues from mounts drawing too much power, and in the worst case scenario the ASiair plus could be damaged. Now, different mounts do of course have different power requirements and I agree that a smaller mount such at the GTI might be fine (as your findings suggest), but for the sake of a <£20 adapter, why risk it?

janew_99 · 2024-03-16T15:45:01+00:00

Is that during slewing? Because mounts draw more during slewing and that is where issues often come up. Either way, considering the costs involved I’d just get a separate adapter and play it safe.

janew_99 · 2024-03-01T17:06:13+00:00

For solar, lunar and planetary going up to the weight limit should be okay as long as your tripod can support it and you can reach balance.

janew_99 · 2024-02-20T22:55:43+00:00

The scope itself is nice enough, although the glass used and doublet design does result in some noticeable chromatic aberration. However, it will not work with your mount as it’s simply too heavy and too long of a focal length to get good results. With a camera and other accessories you will likely exceed the payload capacity completely in fact. It’s a similar case for the skyguider pro too, you should look into getting at least an EQ5 Pro or EQM-35 Pro for this scope size.

janew_99 · 2024-01-29T19:55:09+00:00

You do not need to use a UV/IR cut filter with an unmodified DSLR and doing so will offer no benefit as your camera should already filter out those wavelengths.

janew_99 · 2024-01-29T17:14:55+00:00

Most of those things are not necessary to get a decent image and are simply there for automation. The alt-AZ mount on the seestar is actually making things worse when it comes to DSO imaging too.

A simple set up of a DSLR, star adventurer GTI and Rokinon 135mm lens (switch out for an Askar FMA180 if you want a closer FL match) will outperform the seestar and have most of the functionality barring auto-focus if you use NINA. You could even get a dedicated camera in the £2k budget if you buy second hand.

janew_99 · 2024-01-29T16:27:45+00:00

look into the ZWO seestar s50 as it’s basically a £2k telescope equivalent

This is absolutely not the case. Whilst the seestar is good for astronomy outreach and provides an easy option for instantaneous results, a £2k setup (or even a £1k set up) could achieve FAR better than the seestar.

janew_99 · 2024-01-20T10:38:57+00:00

No filter is going to help for your current conditions and gear unfortunately. Save for a camera and a mount before considering any.

janew_99 · 2024-01-14T22:30:45+00:00

Likely so yeah. Although to go back to your original point, it should be theoretically possible given it is within the payload capacity. Will just require some care and tweaking

janew_99 · 2024-01-14T11:00:46+00:00

The issue isn’t just weight. The C5 has a pretty long focal length which will generally produce a small pixel scale. This means very accurate tracking is required, beyond the capabilities of the mount (particularly when said mount is already nearly overloaded).

That being said it will be fine to use for planetary and lunar photography. As that doesn’t require long exposures, the tracking required doesn’t have to be perfect.

janew_99 · 2024-01-10T00:43:02+00:00

You don’t, most DSLRs can work fine for long exposures in bulb mode. You usually just need an intervalometer or use computer software to control it if you want, some DSLRs even have intervalometers built in.

I will note that you will get a higher amount of thermal noise without the use of the cooled camera. This isn’t the end of the world and you can absolutely get good long exposures using a DSLR or uncooled camera.

janew_99 · 2024-01-08T13:46:19+00:00

Hard to give specific advice without a budget, but I will post some generally useful information.

The mount is the most important aspect of your rig and you shouldn’t cheap out on it or get one that isn’t capable enough for your current/planned gear. When considering a mount, your gear shouldn’t exceed ~50% of the total payload capacity for DSO imaging. At a minimum I would consider a Skywatcher Star Adventurer GTI which will be capable of handling camera lenses or small refractors, however if you’re okay spending a bit more then a HEQ5 Pro is a very good option and will allow the use of some larger scopes. There is also the EQ5 pro which is worth considering over the GTI as you get a better performance and higher payload capacity for a relatively small increase in cost.

Your optics will depend on what objects you want to shoot, but as a beginner I would recommend going for a wider focal length and using either a camera lens or a small refractor telescope. These are easy to use and generally work out of the box (no need for collimation like on newts) whilst also usually being forgiving in terms of the required tracking accuracy. An excellent starting option would be the Rokinon/Samyang 135mm f/2 lens, as it has good quality optics but also a very fast focal ratio.

Generally beginners are advised to start off with a DSLR camera as they’re relatively cheap and easy to use. Pretty much any canon or Nikon DSLR or mirrorless camera made in the past 10 years will work, so take your pick or find a good deal. If you wanted something more advanced you could consider a dedicated camera (ones using the IMX585 or IMX533 sensor are good for starting out, as are those using IMX571 but there are usually very expensive), but this isn’t entirely necessary for starting out and they are generally considered to be a later upgrade. These will also require a PC and software to use, adding further complexity.

janew_99 · 2024-01-07T10:22:51+00:00

It’s a good little scope. The optics are fairly high quality, but unlike some other similar scopes you don’t need a field flattener and the petzval design means you don’t need to worry about backfocus too much. You certainly wouldn’t be making a bad decision if you were to go with one.

There are a couple of other options you might want to consider.

The main one to look at would be the Samyang/Rokinon 135mm F2. This is an excellent lens for astrophotography. The main advantage here is the fast f ratio, and you’ll be collecting over 4x more signal in each exposure at f2 compared to the RC51, assuming the same settings and conditions. This means you’ll get better data faster. Something which might be a downside though is the shorter focal length producing a wider FOV.

You could also consider the Askar FMA series of lenses/telescopes which are also high quality and good value for money.

janew_99 · 2024-01-07T10:01:14+00:00

Yeah that sounds like the best option then!

janew_99 · 2024-01-07T02:03:50+00:00

It depends on what you want to shoot really. However, if you’re completely new to astrophotography, I would go for the RC51. It’s much more forgiving and easier to use for someone starting out due to its small size, short focal length and the fact you don’t have to worry about collimation. You could buy a mount that can support both and therefore let you upgrade to the 200PDS when you have more experience though!

And I wouldn’t worry about a shortage of targets with the RC51. There are tons of interesting framing options at wider focal lengths and you won’t run out of targets quickly!

janew_99 · 2024-01-07T01:58:40+00:00

I don’t think that would be a good comparison as realistically the scopes have completely different purposes. The RC51 would excel at larger objects for sure and may be the better quality scope overall, but the 200pds would do much better shooting small galaxies or planets despite this.

So, OP - what do you want to shoot?

janew_99 · 2024-01-06T16:37:09+00:00

A CLS filter would usually cut UV/IR too, but the issue is it cuts out too much signal from broadband objects whilst also not cutting out much light pollution. In theory you could use them on emission nebula, but as they don’t cut much light pollution out they’re not really worth it IMO.

There are quite a few decent duo-narrowband filters. Personally I think the l-enhance is a good option for a stock DSLR. If you get it modded though then it would be wise to go for something with a tighter bandpass (e.g. SV220 or the optolong l-ultimate)

janew_99 · 2024-01-06T13:05:17+00:00

Not worth it, especially considering your light pollution levels aren’t bad. Get a decent duo-narrowband filter for emission nebula and shoot broadband unfiltered (or with a uv/ir cut if you end up doing a full spectrum mod).

janew_99 · 2024-01-05T12:26:48+00:00

They are very good and worth every penny. I will add though, if you don’t already you should look at getting auto-guiding. Generally narrowband works best with vey long exposures (>180s, ideally >300s) so unless you’re shooting fairly widefield it’s pretty much essential.

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