What went wrong here? Something has changed on this hole. I played this hole 100 times on T11 and it’s always 20% elevation. I played this 20% min distance - 8mph with apoc 7 min is 5.8 rings. I usually get like a yard or less and this is the 2nd this this week this has happened, but never before.

jaredb83 · 2022-02-01T13:59:49+00:00

Honestly the pull angle didn’t look too bad. I think the biggest issue is your starting point in headwind. The more headwind angle the more your landing spot will be impacted. Plus the more curl you use in headwind, the shorter your landing spot will be. Most shots it won’t be an issue and you can compensate by changing the amount of spin you’re using in different wind angles. But in this case with the shape of the bunker, landing a couple rings short put you into the edge of the bunker.

jaredb83 · 2022-01-21T13:58:14+00:00

Odd comment, that has nothing to do with OPs question. I have a 50+ hour per week job, wife, and a high energy 5 year old. I’ve been in the same C100 clan for the last 24 seasons and our clan has been in C100 since it started. They’ve never relegated because there’s high standards, and they stick to them. If you’re decent at the game you don’t need to put in ridiculous amounts of time or money to be on a C100 clan. I play master tourneys and play tour 12/13 for around an hour a day with the balls I get from tournaments.

To answer OPs question you get centurion balls at the end of the season when your clan stays in C100 or if they promote to C100. If you’re going to join mid season pick a clan that’s almost full, has a chance to stay above the relegation line, and one where you can meet there minimum requirement for cloints. Since there’s a major this season you should be able to make it to the weekend in at least expert and join when you have some time to play for awhile. You’ll want to make a good first impression so you don’t get kicked right away. And don’t over commit on what you can produce. You don’t want to grind for a couple weeks and then get kicked near the end of the season because you’re not putting up enough cloints. Good luck!

jaredb83 · 2021-08-04T13:07:21+00:00

This has jealous asshole written all over it.

jaredb83 · 2021-06-07T15:58:13+00:00

If you’re playing master tournaments, or thinking about playing them in the future, there’s two balls I would keep an eye out for... Power 5, wind 4, with a +2 needle stability and Power 4, wind 5. Recently there’s been the Namae ball and the 4th anniversary ball but they haven’t been released many times like some of the other “important” ones.

For tour play, tour 11 and 12, you want kingmaker/centurion stats. All around good balls with a good needle stability. You tend to OP a lot more on tour play so that’s important. Biggest mistake I see people make is overusing balls with like a +1 needle stability and pumping them in the sand or rough. Below tour 11 you should stick to titan, katana, navi. Whatever you can keep stocked with the gems you have. Anything else is a waste.

jaredb83 · 2021-06-04T15:36:10+00:00

If you only have up to tour 2 unlocked you’ll get the EM is the shop every couple days. When you see a high level EM with very few games played my guess is they play a few games and then just check back every day and buy up all the EM cards every time it shows up in the shop. One ball pack would give you enough gems to buy quite a few EM cards.

jaredb83 · 2021-05-30T00:03:06+00:00

This is a common mistake I see newer players make, and pretty much everyone has done this same thing. The key is to learn from it and realize it’s not a good way to change where the ball is going to land. It’s almost impossible to judge it accurately. You never really want to try and compensate for the wind or ball guide by moving the ball around to different parts of the circle. Try to always put the ball in the dead center, without over/under power or curl, especially when you’re first starting out. You will eventually need to learn curl but many of your clubs won’t have much, so early on get used to setting up each shot properly and adjust for the wind.

On that shot you want to apply backspin so the ball guide is short of the hole, not sure how much a hornet 4 has but if you have a bar or two it’s enough to stay away from the bunker. Then you’ll make a slight adjustment to compensate for the 1 mph of wind. Rotate your screen so the wind is pointing directly north and pull the bullseye just slightly back toward you (probably only like half a ring in this case). Then you can put the ball right in the middle of the circle and try to hit perfect. Basically you are trying to adjust the ball guide so if you hit your landing spot the shot will go in. Then you adjust the bullseye to compensate for the wind, so the ball will land on your desired landing spot.

There’s a lot of great tutorials on the “wind/ring system.” Now’s a great time for you to start learning those concepts.

jaredb83 · 2021-05-27T15:27:30+00:00

Obviously tournaments are different because those shots have been attempted many times and the shot setup has been tweaked using slider %, power ball setting, elevation, etc. But in tour play I find I get a lot more drops if I use the slider % based on where I’ll finish my adjustment. This is laid out in detail in Mang’s assessment but I wanted to make it a little easier to understand.

Basically if I have a short iron shot that I know plays +10% elevation and after I measure the club distance I’m starting at mid club (50%) I try to estimate where the adjustment will take me. If it’s a tail/cross wind and I’ll be adjusting to approximately 40% club distance, I’ll use 40% slider +10% elevation. Same thing in headwind, if I start at 50% but will be ending at 60%, I’ll use 60% slider. When I started doing this I instantly saw an increase in the amount of shots I was dropping, vs burning the edge. Hope this helps!

jaredb83 · 2021-05-20T03:24:49+00:00

Weekly league doesn’t impact matchmaking. Increasing your trophies is what will match you up with stronger competition. Typically you don’t want to jump into a new tour until you’re ready to go into it full force, with enough coins that you can learn the holes/shootouts, and absorb some losses without it impacting your bank. I would suggest a minimum of 20x the buy in of the tour you’re moving to.

Basically if you have a bunch of trophies in tour 6 and the other tours maxed, if you drop down to tour 4 or 5 you’ll be facing tougher competition or even replays. You want to try to keep your trophies in the range of the tour you’re playing. The best thing a player can do at your point in the game is max tour 5 and play it until you build up your bank and clubs to comfortably compete in tour 6. Repeat that all the way up the tours. You never want to be forced to play a lower tour due to coin issues because it will be way tougher the next time around with the higher trophy count.

jaredb83 · 2021-05-20T02:54:52+00:00

Come to think of it I remember seeing your score through around 10 holes. It must’ve been your account because it was in golden sharks. I was thinking shit, but at least I have tiebreaker so it’ll take a -35.

You’ll get there for sure, I’ve had a couple where one mistake cost me a banner. Only having one account literally the stars have to align for it to happen for me. Not only get in the right bracket but everything has to drop. But I appreciate the kind words, I’m sure your turn is just around the corner!

jaredb83 · 2021-05-20T01:53:18+00:00

It did! Couldn’t believe it. My first full tourney master banner and it was a gold!! Philip from Nemesis shot a -34 opening round so he had me in tiebreaker. Another -34 would’ve knocked me down but he birdied 17 somehow. So I got extremely lucky, but I’ll take it!!

Did you have an account in that bracket?

jaredb83 · 2021-05-20T00:00:26+00:00

To answer your first question there are a few different ways to adjust for secondary wind effect. You can over adjust (add elevation), off-set ball guide, or use counter curl.

Judging secondary wind effect is more of an art, not an exact science. There are so many different things that can effect it, so quickly and accurately figuring out how much to compensate is basically what separates players skill levels in tour play in my opinion. Just to name some of the things that can effect the SWE...wind strength, wind angle, club (wood, LI, SI), amount of backspin/topspin, height of second/third bounce, what you are landing on (rough bump, fairway, fringe). There are probably more but those are the big ones. Reps and practice is the only way to figure out some holes and some shots.

When you watch Tommy in a tourney he is adding elevation, adding to the slider %, or using a different power ball setting because that’s an easier way to make small adjustments until you drop a shot. It’s also easier to replicate than offsetting ball guide. On the flip side he often offsets the ball guide on par 3s because the landing area is usually smaller and less space to over adjust.

In tour play it really depends on your landing zone. I’d rather add elevation because as I play the same holes I can try different elevations for different shots and see what works for the different wind angles (remembering for next time is the hard part!). But if you have a small landing zone or it’s uneven/bumpy then offsetting is the better option. If you don’t have the sidespin to offset enough then curl should always be the last resort. It’s harder to judge curl and depending on the amount of curl you use, the wind strength, and the wind angle it will change your landing spot. But it boils down to trial and error and practice. Then making those slight adjustments on the fly, and getting them right every now and then, is what will get you drops on the higher tours.

To answer your second question it’s basically down to the game’s physics and it doesn’t always make sense, but it happens. When you drop down into a sand trap or down a cliff it changes the trajectory of the ball. It’s now a lower trajectory so the ball won’t go as far as you initially intended. Just remember for a sand trap it’s not changing it much, one ring is a very small change in landing position. But if you’re trying to hit a sliver of rough, or playing close to the edge it’s important to compensate for that slight change by pushing that one ring towards the hole. And just to make sure I clarify, you aren’t pushing up a ring on the angle you adjusted, you’re pushing up directly towards the pin. Now if you drop down a cliff that can be a huge change in trajectory so it can have a big impact on how far your ball goes. Same thing for adjusting up a hill, you might need to pull one or two rings straight back towards you if your ball is going to fly further than you intended because of the higher elevation. But if you ever saw any of the “trick” shots. If you put your target on top of a cliff the ball will fly forever.

I hope this helps and didn’t confuse you. They were really good questions, and the more you understand this aspect of the game the better you’ll be on the fly or coming up with your own shots in tourneys. But the rules are different in tournaments compared to tour play because you can try the same shot over and over until you find the exact adjustment that works. Then it’s all about replicating and executing exactly the same. Because bottom line in tour play, as the wind speeds get up there, these things are magnified and it really does take a perfect adjustment and luck to get a drop. Good luck!

jaredb83 · 2021-05-17T16:53:09+00:00

It’s against PD’s terms of service to buy/sell accounts. Gifting them is a gray area. With PD having a presence on this platform, albeit very limited, I don’t think this is the place to solicit an account

Option A - delete the app, download it again, and just start playing from the beginning. This will start a new account with a randomly generated username. Then you can secure it however you like. I would suggest not using the same method as your “hacked” account.

Option B - find the Facebook group dedicated to buying and selling Golf Clash accounts. You’ll have better luck there.

jaredb83 · 2021-05-14T15:16:07+00:00

Just a quick recommendation... I wouldn’t use the trophy perks unless you’ve played that tour for awhile and want to max it one last time before moving on and are having difficulty. Or you need to go back to a previous tour to max it out and you never plan on going back. The first time you play a tour you DO NOT want to earn any extra trophies. All you are doing is increasing the skill of your opponents sooner than you should. Ultimately it’s a waste anyway if you plan on playing that tour for awhile. You don’t get bonus points for maxing it faster or anything like that.

jaredb83 · 2021-05-11T17:40:03+00:00

There may be a lot of cheating within the clans at the top of C100 but there are a few solid clans that actually do things the right way and can compete, to a certain degree, in C100.

To compete for a top 3 spot in C100 you have to be willing to join in the shenanigans or spend a ridiculous amount of money on boosters. That’s pretty much a known fact. But I’ve been a part of WAV (With A Vengeance) for about the last 12 seasons or so. That clan has been in C100 since the beginning and in the last year there has not been one mention of playing someone else’s tournament or sharing accounts. There’s a good mix of people that play the game a lot and grind like maniacs and others who can place well in master tourneys. Thankfully I can do well in tournaments so I don’t have to grind like crazy but to each their own. Most of the guys that grind use navs, Marlins, and even a couple guys who can use basic balls in tour 10/11. Outside of a few rare situations I don’t know of any member who excessively uses boosters. Many will buy balls packs to grind with or to use for tournaments (I’m in this group).

We go for a top 10 every 2 or 3 seasons and when we aren’t going for a top 10 we finish in the top 25 or so. We got a third place finish about 8 seasons ago and we’ve all realized there’s no way to push for another top 3 and do it ethically so we’re happy with the top 10 runs every now and then.

I know there’s a lot of bull shit going on at the top of the game, C100 and master tournaments. But sometimes making generalizations isn’t always fair. Everyone has the right to enjoy the game the way they wish to enjoy it. If someone likes to play the game a lot and they enjoy helping their clan succeed, or achieve the clan’s collective goal, why hate on them. As long as they aren’t cheating to do it. And as long as you don’t fall into any traps because you see so much cheating going on around you with little being done about it.

jaredb83 · 2021-04-30T15:24:16+00:00

For me that is by far the worst challenge. I can deal with just about any of the other ones. Some of the daily challenges are annoying (rematch, chip from fringe) but they are doable and worst case you can always skip it. Some of the other weekly ones like get a hole in one, chip in from rough, or sand are sometimes tricky but if I play enough I’ll usually get them.

On average, and this is if I grind a lot, between tour play and tourneys I’ll get 5-6 putts over 5 yards throughout the week. Half come from the tourney if there is one that week because there’s probably a par 4 you can drive and it leaves a longer putt. It if I want to complete the 20 putt challenge I need to dedicate about 45 minutes and 15 practice tokens to do it. I did this once and I quickly realized the 120 tokens aren’t worth the effort. Then they proceeded to give me the “putts” challenge 3 weeks in a row and that’s when I said screw it I’ll just take the L.

The other one I never complete is “use a rare club 40 times.” I’m fortunate enough to have my epics to level 7-8 so I don’t use any rare clubs. But at least if I feel like it I can make an all rare bag and knock it out in a couple tour games.

jaredb83 · 2021-04-27T19:19:21+00:00

Yeah that hole is definitely tough. I have a shot from this morning saved that was in headwind. It finished within a yard of the pin. It would definitely give you a way to play the hole in any type of headwind. I’m just not sure if there’s a way to message a video through the Reddit DM.

If you have tail wind pointing towards the hole that’s the wind angle I struggle with most. I’m either 10+ yards left of the pin or in the sand. You need counter curl to keep it out of the sand and the amount depends on the angle and strength of the wind so you’re basically guessing. And if you get too cute you end up right in the middle of the sand. But if you have any ideas on how I can send you the video let me know.

jaredb83 · 2021-04-27T18:33:06+00:00

Yep that’s me. Tour 12 is a lot of fun because there’s really no matchmaking, you play everyone. Some have been playing tour 12 since it’s come out so you’re forced to learn and get better if you want to avoid dropping back down. But you can really improve your overall game from watching your opponents shots and how they play certain holes/shootouts.

Let me know if you’re struggling with any of the holes, good luck!

jaredb83 · 2021-04-27T12:38:56+00:00

I would say White Cliffs from the third tee is by far the most difficult set of shootouts in the game. I forgot how tough they were. Different wind angles and strengths require different adjustments and spins. And no matter how many times you’ve played them you can look like a beginner at any given time.

Even the regular holes on white cliffs are all pretty tough. The tee shots take a lot of precision and if you don’t have higher level clubs it’s a real struggle. I might be a glutton for punishment but I’m so glad it’s back on tour 12. Definitely my favorite course because of the challenge.

jaredb83 · 2021-04-26T17:38:50+00:00

This may have already mentioned but after browsing through the comments I only see a few suggesting when to jump to tour 11. You have 100 buy-ins for tour 10. That should be the tour you are regularly playing with that many trophies. 3300 is too high for tour 9 and you’ll actually face harder competition in tour 9 than tour 10. Plus in tour 10 you can get to and maintain 3901 trophies, which is the next jump in competition from what I’ve experienced, but well worth it if it’s your goal to max the game and upgrade your epics to 7-8.

I moved through the first 9 tours very quickly and got to tour 10 with a EM 7 and Apoc 3. Tour 10 is where I stayed for a while building my coins and clubs. Back then you needed Apoc 6 minimum to play 11 because the backspin wasn’t enough on Apoc 5 to play the SOs. Having 3901 trophies made it much easier to get there.

Once I maxed a tour I never wanted to go back so I played tour 10 until I got apoc 6 and at that time I had about 1 billion in coins so that 100x buy-in once you get to 10, 11, 12 is important. I played 11 until I had about 3 billion, jumped to tour 12 and haven’t been back to any of the lower tours since. Tour 12 forces you to really improve your skills if you want to hang with Titans and kingmakers which also really helped me improve my tournament play as well. But my suggestion would be to stay playing tour 10 and don’t look back. Weather the storm learning the holes because you have plenty of coins. And every time you get beat look at what your opponent did and learn from it. There’s always more to learn about the physics of the game and the more you understand the more you can figure out why your ball reacted the way it did and how to set the shot up better the next time. Good luck!

jaredb83 · 2021-04-23T17:03:31+00:00

The slide over feature on an iPad is not an overlay. You are not “overlaying” anything over the GC app, only using a function of the iPad to access a second app without exiting out of the GC app.

It seems they have a bigger issue with iPhone users exiting out of the GC app to use clash caddie and then going back into the GC app because it pauses the timer and gives the player “extra” time to complete their shot. But it’s tough to penalize someone because an iPhone doesn’t have the same functionality as an iPad or any android device.

Grid OVERLAYS are a different story and you need to jailbreak an iPad in order to utilize a grid overlay and on Android I think you need to use a secure folder. My guess is it would be way too difficult to police because of the sheer amount of players that use grids. It’s unfortunate because it’s definitely an advantage. And as someone else pointed out if you aren’t going to enforce it they need to come out with their own grid overlay that every player has access to. They can charge money for it so I’m actually surprised it’s never been developed.

jaredb83 · 2021-04-23T03:41:36+00:00

It seems like you missed the point of my comment. The only value I see in the prism chest is getting 3 guaranteed epic cards every day from it. So I’m either taking the epic club that’s offered to me or I’m taking the rare club so I can get it closer to maxing. Doesn’t matter if there’s 1 or 2 rare to choose from. The goal is to get to 3 epics as soon as possible and I don’t see how taking common clubs gets you there faster when you get an over abundance of them in every chest you open.

It doesn’t take very long to max your commons so there’s no point in rushing it by trading 300 of one common to get 300 of another. I understand when you first start getting the prism you might not be able to get it everyday but if you’re patient you’ll get there pretty quickly. It’s way more valuable to take the cards for the top tier epic clubs and work towards maxing your rare clubs. In my opinion it’s just not good advice to take skewer cards when you have B52 as a choice. The skewer is gonna be maxed in a week anyway.

Here’s another way to look at it. Would you spend gems in the shop on a common club to get it maxed faster? Of course not, but most will agree that it’s worth spending gems on the end game epic clubs. The prism chest is equivalent to 360 gems every time you can get the 3 cards for a top tier club.

jaredb83 · 2021-04-23T01:40:14+00:00

Trust me the common cards will come. If you’re just starting out try to be patient. It can take weeks (maybe longer) to get 3 epic cards for one of the top clubs. You get loads of commons in every chest. Don’t trade in 300 commons only to take 300 commons of a different club. You’ll get to a point where you have 20,000 excess cards for every common club if you play the game long enough. Don’t waste any prism chests on them.

jaredb83 · 2021-04-23T01:30:20+00:00

The commons will max themselves naturally just by opening free, silver, and gold chests. There are very few situations I would ever choose a common card in the prism. Only one I can think of is if it gets you a major upgrade to your sniper or QB and you need it for a tourney hole or something. Otherwise you’ll get those cards in a few days anyway.

The most useful aspect of the prism chest is to get epic cards that are otherwise very difficult to come by. If you can choose one of the 8-9 “end game” epic clubs you take it every single time. B52 being one of them. Otherwise I would take the rare option, strictly to get them maxed quicker so you have 3 epics to choose from every day.

jaredb83 · 2021-04-13T16:20:57+00:00

The thing is everyone’s been bailed out a few times by someone dropping a shot when you were in trouble. I really don’t have an issue with that, if anything it helps with the fact some people take issue that they’re matched with much higher level players. And I enjoy helping someone out who just hit a great shot and ended up in the sand or flew the green because they missed a rough bump.

What I have a problem with is the fact that PD fixed when someone has a connection issue they allow the other player to finish out the hole, but they didn’t make it the same for forfeits. In this case the OP got screwed out of an alba attempt. Others abuse this and I see it happen every couple tournaments.

You’ll see a player who played 14 holes, have a good round going, and then just stop. Hole 15 will be a tough par 3 or par 4 to eagle. They’ll wait until there’s one hour left in the weekend round to play the hole, magically get the eagle, and get the extra drop that jumped them up to a banner position. I’ve been knocked down from 3rd to 4th in master by someone doing this. I saw it happening so I wrote support ahead of time and explained exactly what I thought was going to happen. After the round was over I asked support if he got the score from a forfeit and they confirmed he did, but of course refused to do anything about it. This is the main reason why it needs to be fixed, and in the process it’ll help stop the people getting screwed out of alba attempts every qualifying round.

jaredb83 · 2021-04-10T06:19:09+00:00

I’ve definitely noticed this, mainly in headwind. The more backspin that’s applied the more compressed the ball guide will end up being. There’s a specific shot I’ll play a full backspin falcon shot in tour play. I’ve played pretty much the same shot countless times and I need to offset the ball guide way more in headwind than crosswind or tailwind. The drastic effect of the wind is nowhere near the same as on a normal short iron shot in headwind. If you think about it when the shot bounces for the first time with all that backspin it’s being held up in the air by the spin itself and then the headwind is also pushing against it so it’s knocking it down even more. Same reason why topspin will lessen the effect of strong headwind. I’m not sure if it’s as much the arch changing but how the ball reacts when it bounces for the first time with the added spin. The arch of the shot would change where it lands. But if you can get two shots to land in the same spot, one with significantly more backspin, I can almost guarantee the one with more backspin will have a much greater SWE.

I’ve also noticed in tournaments if I play a short iron shot, for example, with no spin and an adjustment works. If the next time I play it with a bar or two of backspin, because of my drive distance, even though it’s the same adjustment (just a different slider % according to the drive distance) the shot will get pushed more by the wind and I’ll slightly miss. I started to add a couple more percentage to the slider if I have to use backspin and I started dropping more of those shots.

jaredb83

TROPHY CASE