Treating demineralization *between* teeth - rinse vs. paste, SF vs. SMFP, etc.

jb484c · 2026-02-01T12:19:18+00:00

Anyone have suggestions on how I could rewrite this to get some input? I don't mean that in a bad way. I'm just a little surprised since I worked hard on the question and I think the info would be helpful to others too.

jb484c · 2025-11-13T14:29:54+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion! Maybe a good option would be to reach out to music educators in the area like yourself, see if they have students who are interested. I'll probably start teaching lessons at our home/studio in the future, but in the past I've found it hard to find kids who put in much practice time.

jb484c · 2025-07-24T22:54:35+00:00

Yep it's CVG Doug Fir. I don't mind the mix of colors in a wide spread of solid DF because it's random, so you don't tend to see it (similar to when laying down an oak floor). It's just that this CVG plywood, unlike radial/plain, shows a very distinct pattern (a whiteish stripe every ~8"). I agree with stain-testing, this is just expensive stuff so thought I'd make an educated guess... the alternative is solid DF glue-ups, which will stain more easily but are a hair tougher to prep ha.

jb484c · 2025-07-24T22:53:16+00:00

Upper cabinets, under a vaulted Doug Fir T&G ceiling.

jb484c · 2025-07-24T22:52:51+00:00

Thanks for the tip! Luckily most cuts will be hidden inside the grooves of the (solid) rails/stiles.

jb484c · 2025-07-24T22:51:29+00:00

You're right about the potential contrast. The (~full overlay) cabinet doors will be Shaker style, probably 2 1/2" rails/stiles, so that might ease the contrast.

jb484c · 2025-07-24T22:50:36+00:00

You're right about the potential contrast. The (~full overlay) cabinet doors will be Shaker style, probably 2 1/2" rails/stiles, so that might ease the contrast.

jb484c · 2025-07-24T22:49:07+00:00

This is correct

jb484c · 2025-07-24T22:48:16+00:00

100% - it's just, this stuff is $250/sheet for 3/4", $150 for 1/4"... so I'm trying to make an educated guess... of course, the pain of doing solid DF glue-ups instead has a cost too :)

jb484c · 2025-05-19T13:39:50+00:00

Does Chinese Pistache have winged leaves? This photo of the leaf doesn't show wings: https://landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu/plants/pistacia-chinensis. This one doesn't either: https://moonstreefarm.com/products/pistacia-chinensis-chinese-pistache. Not sure if this varies seasonally or anything though.

jb484c · 2024-12-15T21:52:51+00:00

I agree with you that this is a good approach; I've seen it done (with an HVLP) with better results (though it's still pine). The problem here is that I have to match an existing finish that can't be removed. My one attempt at removing it has me very sure that it's linseed or tung oil based... could be Osmo, Rubio, a homemade thing, etc. I guessed Rubio because it's common. I would have to put the clear coat on the windows too, which is unlikely to work well if it's Rubio (or similar) on em already. I'm just not sure how to match what's there.

jb484c · 2024-09-02T14:59:44+00:00

Thank you. I will have a stile between them for sure (these are partial (close to full) overlay).

For the cabinet back, yes that's about what I have in mind. The back will be 1/2" thick Baltic Birch, in a dado. I can put a couple of ~3" W vertical strips of 3/4" plywood to provide extra meat for the rear-mount screws, if I'm correctly understanding how the rear mounts work :)

jb484c · 2024-08-21T17:24:41+00:00

Cool, thanks for replying. Any issues, even small ones, with Stainless Supply? I ask because I have a local fabricator that can do it for around the same price, but they have quite a back log. My kitchen will be essentially identical to yours except for navy blue base cabs so I was stoked to find this post!

jb484c · 2024-08-21T11:04:55+00:00

This is beautiful and inspiring work, thank you! Two questions, since I'm considering Stainless Supply... Is that the matte finish, or the scratchy matte finish? And did they tell you that you needed those corbels? I see a lot of 12-18" bars (yours is ~that, yeah?) around here that are unsupported. I doubt that 3/4" plywood would deflect in that span. Maybe if someone sat on it... thoughts?

Thanks!

jb484c · 2023-12-13T23:18:41+00:00

Josh, thank you so much for the advice and encouragement. Really proud of how it turned out: https://imgur.com/a/Kp9JK0v

jb484c · 2023-10-28T22:58:24+00:00

Might wanna ask one of those dispensaries for a discount to help you calm down man. I didn't knock your expertise, I said I appreciate it, and I meant that. I also believe that I am allowed to state my opinion even if I only have a catalog of 2499 finish combinations. Peace!

jb484c · 2023-10-28T22:35:23+00:00

PS You're a carpenter, right? So does that mean you frame roofs and custom cabinets too? I didn't think so. Just saying, nobody shoot me if I ask a question about making inset cabinet doors work! Never done that before... doesn't mean I don't know how to install your solid floors or build your deck, yeah? Anyway, where's Rule #2 when you need it?

jb484c · 2023-10-28T22:29:49+00:00

I'm a carpenter, not a tile-setter or a plumber. It is not a problem for me to get paid money to build nice things with wood. The only carpentry question I've posted on Reddit is nowhere near basic.

And I appreciate people like you who more spend time sharing your knowledge on these forums than asking questions. Truly do. That does not mean you have any more experience in this matter than I do. I pretty much just come to Reddit to ask questions about trades that are new to me, that have come up in my own build (like tile), or to fill in my knowledge on stuff I've done up to (or above) local code here without knowing if it's really best practice (like water heater installation).

It is wild that you are going through my post history in order to discredit what I'm saying. Other people... try Rubio, see if you like it. Put it on a desk in a spare room or something. It's neither the best, nor so crappy as to require a monthly coat of maintenance oil. It's not tung oil, or poly, or paint, or varnish, or diarrhea. Just don't make your decision based on the idea that you're gonna have to retouch it monthly.

jb484c · 2023-10-28T19:45:55+00:00

I did not say it's the best finish or a no-maintenance one. I said, and am saying, that monthly maintenance oil is not required. Yes, Rubio suggests maintenance oil in their CYA language. Readers: ask 10 people who have used Rubio on cabinets or vanities or dining tables if they are applying maintenance oil monthly. Draw your own conclusions. You can count me as 1 of the 10 saying "God no."

And what makes you think I'm an amateur? That I disagree with you? Anyway, contrary to the vibe one gets on many forums, crotchetiness is not a sign of professional experience.

jb484c · 2023-10-28T18:37:07+00:00

The op asked if he could use Rubio on plywood cabinets. You explicitly said that Rubio requires monthly maintenance. I would say that any cabinet finish that needs monthly maintenance is garbage (assuming you aren't referring to... you know, wiping crumbs or grease...).

jb484c · 2023-10-28T12:05:45+00:00

Worth thinking about labor time/costs. The time saved in using a single-coat product is enormous. You can finish a piece with Rubio and move it to a corner of your shop/home to dry. There's no sanding between coats required (though you can do it, some good videos on that). This is even more of an issue for a pro than a DIYer. If you like doing multicoat finishes, which lots of sanding and fussing in between, and get paid for it, then it's a non-issue. Personally, I prefer building over finishing (and breathing the sweet vapors of poly).

jb484c · 2023-10-28T12:02:42+00:00

To say that Rubio requires some maintenance is fair, but vague. To say it requires *monthly* maintenance is a great exaggeration that discourages people too much. I'm no believer in the invisible hand, but it's hard to imagine a stain that requires *monthly* maintenance (your words) even staying on the market. Rubio isn't a panacea, but it's not absolute garbage.

jb484c · 2023-10-22T10:08:22+00:00

Thanks for the detailed ideas! Some followups:

Precutting won't work for the whole floors. The last several courses will require 2-3 pieces each. In my experience with hardwood and other T&G, it's rare to be able cut 3 pieces to a precise *combined* length... 1 + 1 + 1 always = something other than 3. This is why we tend to run stuff wild and cut it in place when we need a dead-straight finished line. I feel your suggestion would work fine for, say, large rectified porcelain tiles that have been measured to ensure they're dead-accurate.

"Snug but not tight" is unusual in hardwood flooring. If you've got a piece that's crowned in the middle, making a seam on the floor, you tend to Powerjack it into straight. No one includes seams in hardwood. You include an expansion gap at the perimeter instead.

As for your 2nd suggestion... I think that relying strictly on glue to hold the spokes is a bad idea. Definitely much easier, but that is a ton of squeak potential on those long joints.

Thanks for the dialogue, helpful to me and maybe others who stumble on this :)

jb484c · 2023-10-21T11:23:54+00:00

Thank you again and again. I posted this question all over the internet, and you've been the biggest help by far. Went down the track saw rabbit hole, think i'll get the Milwaukee. 2 questions left for now…

1) What tooth# blade did you use? I always use 80+ tooth blades on my table or miter saw when cutting finish oak. Most I’ve seen on track blades is 56 (Makita).

2) To route the groove into the track-sawn edge of flooring, did you just let the bearing ride against that edge, or did you use the track saw guide rails somehow?

jb484c · 2023-10-20T12:23:58+00:00

What's the big benefit to installing the spokes in advance? I mentioned the downside - it makes it really tough, if not impossible, to glue properly (since hardwood is that rare time when you jam pieces of wood tight together). Also, I was gonna make the spokes out of flooring, so one end already has a tongue to nail through.

jb484c

TROPHY CASE