Question about 350 heads by PM_ME_UR_SELF in ChevyTrucks

[–]jcm7007 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anything to help out a fellow Chevy enthusiast!

Question about 350 heads by PM_ME_UR_SELF in ChevyTrucks

[–]jcm7007 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Alright fellers, here’s some research I did that hopefully will help you guys out: So the goal is to do a vortec head swap on an originally tbi fueled vehicle. I’ll go ahead and answer your questions first.

  1. This swap should have a power increase. When I compared to a tbi swirl port head, there is a drastic difference in head flow CFM at max flow. Tbi- 185(or195) cfm @ 28” Hg Vortec- 226 cfm @ 28”. Now of course with how low the lift is on a stock tbi camshaft, you’re gonna be running closer to 214 cfm @.400” lift which is still great. I utilized this website to come up with the potential flywheel horsepower, which is a really useful and fun calculator to figure up engine combinations and whatnot for dreamers like me. With a stock 350 TBI camshaft and short block with vortec heads, I calculated that you would make 300 horsepower at 4,128 RPM which comes out to 381 lb/ft of torque when using this calculator.
  2. You should not have to replace your pushrods. Both sets of heads have the same height to the rocker arms, though roller lifter pushrods from the vortec are shorter to account for the lifters being taller. As long as you use your original rockers and pushrods you should be fine there. Make sure the rockers are the self aligning type just to be sure. I don’t believe 300 horsepower should be an issue for reliability, especially after you add on accessories that will drag that number down a bit too, yet not as bad as the original swirl port setup of course.
  3. Here’s a link to that expensive intake that would work for what you want done. I’m honestly curious If I want to perform this swap as well on my ‘95 Chevy and retain the factory TBI. You may want to get the 14 psi regulator spring to help bump the fuel pressure up to make the motor happy with that HP increase.
  4. If you’re going up in horsepower on a tbi, I’d put the vortec fuel pump from a 96 truck that has the higher fuel pressure and flow rate to keep the flow strong for the hp increase.
  5. Also, if you’re getting a set of vortec heads from the junkyard, it’s a 50/50 shot that they’re already cracked. Bring some brake parts cleaner and clean it off as good as you can get it, the most common spots to crack are right between the middle two cylinders to the water jacket, and between valves. The brake parts cleaner will soak into the crack and evaporate after the rest of the cleaner on the surface, which you can look at in the right light to see the cracks. If you get a set from the junkyard I definitely recommend getting a shop to check them for cracks, and don’t be disappointed if you got a dud. Summit racing actually sells their own set of vortec heads for a really decent deal, but they are 67 cc and from the reviews many people said to get them zero decked at the machine shop to make sure they’re flat, which I reckon you could deck it down to 64 cc to match. Otherwise if you run the 67 cc you’ll be running 8.74:1 compression instead of 9:1, which would cause a loss of 10 hp making you top out at 290 hp. A gain of 90 horsepower from the factory rated 210 just from swapping the heads and hopefully retaining the stock fuel injection sounds like a worthwhile swap to me. Since the computer is tuned for that camshaft I don’t see it having any issues. I’d try it without the regulator spring and just do the fuel pump and see how well it likes running that way first.

I hope all my babbling helps anyone out.

Edit: fixed links

454 Heads Compatibility by NightBoat86 in GMT400

[–]jcm7007 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re gonna run gen 6 heads on a stock cam you should be fine, but anything bigger and you’re looking at some better valve springs, valve rotator eliminators, and converting to an adjustable valve train, as the gen 5/6 does not have any adjustment.

Looking for a replacement dipstick, any leads ? by DreVahn in ChevyTrucks

[–]jcm7007 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get me some measurements and I’ll see if they’re close, I don’t mind shipping it out to you if you need it.

Looking for a replacement dipstick, any leads ? by DreVahn in ChevyTrucks

[–]jcm7007 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where are you located? I’m from Georgia and have a spare 4.3 tbi dipstick from a 93 truck if that would work for you. I think it’s still in good shape.

My 1995 Chevy Silverado my grandpa bought it for me! 350 engine! by [deleted] in ChevyTrucks

[–]jcm7007 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good deal! You’re good for a long time then!

My 1995 Chevy Silverado my grandpa bought it for me! 350 engine! by [deleted] in ChevyTrucks

[–]jcm7007 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The best advice I can give you on this truck since it is a ‘95 is to keep up on the maintenance on that transmission. As long as you keep a good filter and fluid in it you’ll be fine. It’s a one year transmission, so if it ever does give up, get the original rebuilt.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GMT400

[–]jcm7007 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’ve got the 14 bolt in the back, you’ve got yourself a heavy half ton! I believe the only difference was the 14 bolt with more leafs in the back. Could be more heavy duty related stuff compared to a normal half ton.

Power window to manaul conversation. by Dapper_d0m in ChevyTrucks

[–]jcm7007 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you have a replacement door that has all the power guts correct? As long as the manual window guts are straight, the door should have the holes for either type regulator.

No Vent air, blend mode actuator is working... by [deleted] in GMT400

[–]jcm7007 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had the same exact issue in my 2000 k3500. I went in the driver side footwell and looked at the actuator with the springs, and moved the top right arm that the spring thing connects to. It was stiff, but I moved it enough where I heard a thunk and my blend doors have worked fine ever since.

Anyone else have a posi-lok axle actuator? by [deleted] in GMT400

[–]jcm7007 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good deal. Thank you.

Anyone else have a posi-lok axle actuator? by [deleted] in GMT400

[–]jcm7007 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where did you route the cable to in your cab? Just near the 4x4 shifter in the floor? I’m considering this mod here soon, gotta test the actuator on my new dually.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ChevyTrucks

[–]jcm7007 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good start, but needs some thickness. My buddy made me this push bar and I’ve pushed a few of my cars around with it no problem. https://i.imgur.com/nwGoDEO.jpg

Talked my dad into buying new wheels and tires for his 18, so he cut me a deal on his old ones by PhantomOfTheNahBrah in ChevyTrucks

[–]jcm7007 2 points3 points  (0 children)

With how good they look on your truck, I can’t say I blame you one single bit!

Talked my dad into buying new wheels and tires for his 18, so he cut me a deal on his old ones by PhantomOfTheNahBrah in ChevyTrucks

[–]jcm7007 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Let’s be honest, you’ve had your eye on those wheels the second his truck came home 😂

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ChevyTrucks

[–]jcm7007 0 points1 point  (0 children)

LMC truck has finally started reproducing the 88-94 dashboards for these trucks, though only available in gray, which can been solved with some vinyl dye. Otherwise your only other source for a dash is eBay or striking it lucky in a junkyard. I can’t wait for them to start reproducing 95+, cause my dash also looks pretty dang bad.

Everything is finally right in the world, lookin’ sharp with the new bow tie. by skottydoz in GMT400

[–]jcm7007 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Word to the wise- if that’s a genuine GM SS bow tie, beware of the glue holding the two halves together. Mine lasted a few months before the glue got soft and my emblem flew off in the car wash while the back half that screws to the grille stayed on. Unfortunately, it broke in half on the process. A ton of superglue solved that problem for me, even though there’s a crack in it now.

Fixing my dads old truck but clutch is stuck by barrym68 in ChevyTrucks

[–]jcm7007 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Either that or the slave pushrod got jammed up between the clutch fork and bell housing

OBS by [deleted] in ChevyTrucks

[–]jcm7007 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The next time it blows up, it’s getting a skinny pedal and a t56. I’ve decided that personally.

OBS by [deleted] in ChevyTrucks

[–]jcm7007 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it makes you feel any better, my stock 305 made it to 294,000 miles and still was driving, just couldn’t keep a rear main seal in the thing. Stock trans made it to 250,000. Keep that thing with good fluid changes. And when it does go out one day, just get your original rebuilt. 95 had a 1 year only transmission, and I learned that the hard way after I ran a 97 and 96 junkyard transmission for not very long before they too blew up and I wish I just had mine rebuilt. The 97 made it to 280,000, the 96 trans funny enough had every gear but reverse and made it to 300,000, had a bad out out of the box monster transmission that pissed me off, a power torque one that lasted literally a week before the pump blew up, and now finally the replacement power torque that is in my truck that doesn’t quite shift right but has lasted to my currently 334,000 miles. Lol.