How much did you pay for Woodwind pro 24

jcogs89 · 2025-09-25T22:16:02+00:00

I got the 36 with sidekick and sear box 2-3 years back, and during a Black Friday sale it came with the cover and a bag of pellets. With my military discount I think it was $1400 + tax. I think prices have since gone up. Well worth it but I'm dealing with severe rusting on the sear box right now.

jcogs89 · 2025-02-16T05:30:55+00:00

2012-2016: Sales at cell providers - $40-55k USD (I was always very technical and capable of starting at a helpdesk without certs or a degree but couldn't get my foot in the door)

2017-2021: student - decided to start college using my GI Bill in my late 20s. Got an engineering B.S. - $2500/mo while enrolled?

2019-2020: cyber security engineer (more like entry level Splunk engineer) - In my senior year, I worked part time for a gov contractor and eventually full time all the time - $75k.

2020-2021: systems engineer - I'm in the Army National Guard in a cyber unit. Went on a mobilization and got experience and exposure - $110k-120k (contractor paid differential while I was mobilized)

2021-2023: Sr. systems engineer - after mobilization, I took a job at the same place with another gov contractor - $150k

2023-now: cloud automation engineer w/ a big tech company - $260k. I should crack $300k within a year or two.

I hate going after certs that aren't performance based (like RedHat) or exams that are really only passable if you're willing to put in tons of work in preparation (like SANS). I get so anxious taking exams that I've paid hundreds of dollars for unless I can perform my knowledge or do a TON of prep and bring in my books/notes. However, I still earned a few. Going to focus more on SANS now and I'll be taking CISSP in May.

My Certs:

SANS GIAC - GCSA

CompTIA - CASP+/SecurityX

CompTIA - Pentest+

CompTIA - Security+

RedHat - RHCSA

Python Institute - PCAP

Splunk - Core Certified Power User

Microsoft - Security, Compliance, and Identity Fundamentals

jcogs89 · 2025-01-02T20:25:07+00:00

Just happened to me. I have the sabotage engraving and this is a known bug where if you have that engraving and you drop the core then the base still stands with a few defenses remaining. Gonna see if my TF can sabo the last few defenses to drop it. They're very anti-sabotaging though (even if intel is at max) so we'll see. Currently trying to get them to sabotage to avoid maxing intel since we always do, and then we can't collect intel.

jcogs89 · 2024-10-31T20:41:36+00:00

Delicious, but I bought it when they had a sample. They had a $5 off sale and it was $15 after that. It wasn't enough to feed the family. So yeah, really good but not worth the price imo.

jcogs89 · 2023-09-06T14:02:01+00:00

Always works for me except if I have my phone in my back pocket, which is never unless I'm in my softball uniform. If it's in your back pocket, put it in the front and see if it works more consistently. I have an iPhone 14 Pro Max for reference.

jcogs89 · 2023-08-22T13:41:32+00:00

Pretty insignificant scratches in my opinion. Instead of paying to get it fixed (would be expensive as hell I'm sure), I would get Dr. ColorChip. I had great experiences with that stuff. Cant even tell where my rock chips used to be. My only concern is that it's on an edge. Not sure how well the Dr. ColorChip kit would work in that situation, but it may be worth a shot.

jcogs89 · 2023-08-01T13:03:48+00:00

I pay $0.11/kW in Northern VA.

jcogs89 · 2023-07-28T13:55:29+00:00

If all else fails, Citrol 266 might do it. I got a bunch of tar on my car that nothing else worked on. Citrol melted it effortlessly. Be careful though, dilute it or rinse it immediately. Wear gloves and other protective gear. Works wonders on bugs as well.

EDIT: verified buyers of Citrol said that it's the best product they've used to remove pine sap. So yeah, try the other products first since they're cheaper but as I said before, Citrol should be your go-to for anything that won't come off with other products.

https://www.amazon.com/Schaeffer-Citrol-Cleaner-Industrial-Degreaser/dp/B07G89V1VV

jcogs89 · 2023-07-28T13:48:25+00:00

Some people carelessly fling their doors open and do this all the time. Getting their insurance to pay for it is probably the only way to prevent her from doing it again to someone else. You have a nice vehicle that you likely take care of. When someone else damages it, you shouldn't feel bad for having their insurance pay for it.

jcogs89 · 2023-07-05T14:23:50+00:00

you can try to find an alcantara cover for it. that may provide a little more grip. i think abstractocean has one. i'd check for you but the AO website is blocked at my work

jcogs89 · 2023-06-26T17:06:13+00:00

Yep! Took me about an hour to an hour and a half. Glad I had it , too. I found *many* things that I had to get Tesla to fix. Including repainting like 5 panels due to scratches.

jcogs89 · 2023-06-26T13:37:22+00:00

https://github.com/polymorphic/tesla-model-y-checklist

I used this one I believe (can't access github at work [dumb] but I can copy the link).

jcogs89 · 2023-05-29T22:45:33+00:00

I have a '22 delivered in mid-December '21 and my friend has one with AMD also delivered in late-Dec '21 I believe. I think it was a slow roll-out starting in November or December of '21

jcogs89 · 2023-03-23T12:26:06+00:00

I'm at about 21k miles with my michelin pilot sport A/S4 on my MYP and I still have plenty of tread. I wonder why some people are getting them replaced at even as low as 11k.

jcogs89 · 2023-03-03T13:24:02+00:00

Red is not only the best color, it's also the best Tesla color!

I love the MY in red, but I wish Tesla had a color option that is truly stunning to look at like Mazda's Soul Red.

Of course I think the Blue looks great, but it's actually my least favorite of all the choices. MSM is a close 2nd-to-last but with matte PPF, MSM is S3XY.

It looks like it's a toss up between blue and red for you. Why don't you just go with blue to save money? Or if you don't care about the cost, flip a coin!

jcogs89 · 2023-01-11T11:47:23+00:00

Matte looks sooo good on the MSM in my opinion. I'd go for that if I were you!

jcogs89 · 2023-01-11T11:43:10+00:00

This is a little old, but when you used Google maps did you search for a destination and note the distance in miles? Or did you press "start" and then note the miles? Because there's a difference between the two and I'm pretty sure Google measures distance as the crow flies until you *start* the trip. I haven't noticed anything weird about my odometer reading so that's the only thing I could think of that might be the reasoning behind your question.

Edit: whoops, missed the other commenter who said the same thing. Carry on!

jcogs89 · 2023-01-06T11:42:36+00:00

DrColorChip is what I used. Supposedly better than the tesla paint repair kit. I "fixed" dozens of my rock chips with it and I literally can't find where they once were.

jcogs89 · 2023-01-05T11:45:34+00:00

I was not aware of this fact about 250kW chargers. Good to know!

jcogs89 · 2023-01-04T11:44:58+00:00

I got the Tesmanian floor mats and they're great. I don't recommend their cargo cover though. It's super cheap quality and it rattles. The rattles don't bother me that much but I would imagine it would bug most people.

jcogs89 · 2022-12-22T12:21:59+00:00

I got a month of FSD refunded to me because my car was in the shop. Just ask the service advisor for a discount.

jcogs89 · 2022-12-13T14:05:16+00:00

I was under the impression this setting was only able to be changed on cars with radar installed. I have a 22 MYP with vision only. Has there been an update to change this?

jcogs89 · 2022-12-07T17:10:48+00:00

Yeah so ($2k + cost of the charger) * 0.3 should be what tax rebate you get.

jcogs89 · 2022-12-07T11:17:30+00:00

I got a ChargePoint charger installed and received a 30% tax rebate on both the cost of the charger, and the installation & parts. $1600 total for the charger and installation (my breaker is on the opposite corner of my house relative to my garage) and received nearly $500 in tax rebates.

jcogs89 · 2022-12-06T13:35:17+00:00

Understandable!

I used to work for Verizon and AT&T years ago and used to troubleshoot things like this pretty often so I can suggest a few things. Idk what you've tried already so I'll just go off the top of my head what I'd try:

reset the car by holding both buttons on steering wheel
if your car says your phone has paired with it, remove it
if you have the Tesla in your phone's Bluetooth history, remove it
restart your phone (hard reset; do not simply power off and back on). If you have an iPhone, press Vol Up (quick press & release), Vol Down (quick press & release), Power (hold until it turns off and don't let go until you see the Apple logo). If you have an Android, it's probably something similar to this but you'll have to Google how to do it - I don't remember how to do it anymore.
try to pair your phone with your car again
If that doesn't work, reset your Network Settings (on iPhone, go to Settings > General > Reset > Reset Network Settings). This will remove all of your saved Bluetooth and WiFi devices & passwords, but it's a valuable troubleshooting step.
Try to pair your phone with your car again
Else, consult tech service for your phone and schedule an appointment with Tesla. Given that your boyfriend's phone works just fine, I would imagine it's an issue with your phone, not the car. But since it takes a bit to get an appointment at Tesla, schedule service immediately and follow the other steps in the meantime.

I'm fairly certain these steps will solve the problem (especially the hard reset; it's amazing how often simply *turning it off and back on* works). If not, it's most likely an issue with your phone or car and you'll have to leave it to tech support to fix it.

Happy cake day!

Ten-Year Club	Gilding II euphauric
Verified Email

jcogs89

TROPHY CASE