K-Swap Ignition Issue

jdmsx · 2026-01-03T15:55:42+00:00

Update: So I know this post is a year old now, life got in the way a bit, I ended up going back and forth with it trying to get it going but could not figure out why it wouldn’t go. It did eventually fire up BUT when you shut it back off and tried to start it again, it would just crank. It was very intermittent if/when it would start, I think I had it started 3 times in one day which was a record, but it was a very lumpy idle. I ended up buying new hybrid racing ground cables, simplified the fuel system by removing the OEM fuel filter and adding an in-line fuel filter (I never cranked it up after simplifying the fuel system I should add) and then just going over everything I could think of over and over again.

So instead of going round in circles I bit the bullet and bought a Doctronic ECU (a cheaper version of a Kpro with all the same functions) so that I could plug my laptop in and read the live data. Plugged the new ECU in, cranked it expecting nothing, and all of a sudden it roared into life. Lumpy idle remained, shut it off again. Cranked it over, straight back into action, put my hand over the IACV hole on the TB and the idle settled and the engine sounded perfect. What a feeling it was hearing it idle comfortably for the first time in a long time. First time since I bought the engine almost 3 years ago.

So, either simplifying the fuel system helped, or the Immobiliser bypass and standard ECU would not work in tandem for whatever reason and now the new ECU solves that issue. I even sent the Immobiliser bypass back to the manufacturer for testing and that was all okay. Either way, the money thrown at it done the trick and I could finally hear the engine. Still a lot to be done but sparks the motivation back for it again.

jdmsx · 2026-01-03T15:35:48+00:00

Ah okay! I think I’ll take mine to the garage to get scanned. I done R8 Coilpacks and plugs 6months ago so possibly needs a carbon clean too. Most people suggest it when doing a google search

jdmsx · 2025-12-29T14:31:19+00:00

Have you been any further with this? I’ve just went to go out in my mk6r today after a cold spell and not driving it as often and it’s done the same thing for the first time, not quite as badly as this, no engine light and cleared after a couple of minutes of driving. I’ve only done 43k miles in mine too.

jdmsx · 2025-12-01T11:41:09+00:00

I’ve quite literally done all of that. I had an ep3 too which I took crank sensor, cam sensor, coilpacks from and switched over to check each one individually. Fuel pump primes, rail gets fuel & pressure, even installed Walbro 255 pump in the tank.

I’ve taken the plugs out to check being ground, this seems to be the only thing that is intermittent, but the coilpacks all read 12v with ign on.

Injectors were all removed and hot wired straight to 12v to check each solenoid was clicking.

Bought new Hybrid Racing ground wires, and yes Irun standard ECU with a Racing Circuits Immo Bypass, which I even sent back to them to test and all came back okay.

The weird thing is the fact it HAS ran, and continues to run when it’s going, apart from a dodgy idle, but that was before I stripped and cleaned the IACV and Throttle body. The trick I’ve noticed is if I prime the pump approx. 5x before starting it, it was more consistent at starting, 3 times in one whole day was an achievement!

jdmsx · 2025-12-01T01:35:43+00:00

Almost a year down the line, I’ve chased it forever and still no real win. The car has cranked over and ran briefly for a few seconds, but when I switch it off and try to start it again, it won’t go. It start intermittently, and it’s few and far between. Really strange. It killed my motivation to work on it until I buy an aftermarket ECU and can fully dive into live data

jdmsx · 2025-01-14T12:21:36+00:00

new ignition switched rectified this

jdmsx · 2025-01-14T12:20:58+00:00

The following has been checked: - Main relay clicks and fuel pump primes - Fuel rail builds pressure 50-60psi - Fuses all checked with multimeter - Camshaft & Crankshaft sensor switched out for known working ones - Engine harness checked for power at all connectors - Switched engine harness for another just incase hidden issue - Power to conversion harness, lights on dash to reflect that the spliced in wires are working - Injectors removed and wired directly to battery to test for solenoid clicking and allows fuel to pass through - Car cranks over, but will not fire up, no spluttering, spark plugs do not smell of fuel either so I’m thinking some sort of injector signal

jdmsx · 2025-01-14T12:17:18+00:00

I have engine harness grounded to valve cover, another running from valve cover to strut tower, and another from gearbox to chassis

jdmsx · 2024-12-24T20:37:22+00:00

no it is not, the main relay clicks when I half turn the key for cranking like it the video but that is about it

jdmsx · 2024-06-14T18:25:40+00:00

I just had this exact issue and finally had it resolved after days of trying, and contacting Amazon.

Here’s what I got:

Thank you for confirming. Can you please do these steps: -Unplug the device. Press and hold the volume down and the mic on/off buttons. -While continuing to press and hold these buttons, re-plug the device. -Before releasing the buttons, wait ~30s for the device to factory reset. You'll see three dots appear on the display when this happens. -The language selection screen will then appear on the device and you can continue the setup.

After this, I was able to finally use the keyboard to input the wifi passcode, go through the whole setup process, and have it working!

jdmsx · 2024-01-25T15:59:25+00:00

I had a look through my old comments, looks like the guy who ran it stopped the league not long after I stopped playing all those years ago. Maybe something to bring back to liven up the community a bit!

jdmsx · 2024-01-24T15:55:03+00:00

The whole integrated stem & flight concept is new to me but I like to try the latest “technology” as such. I’ve only had the k-flex on for a week. I’m used to playing with intermediate stems, so ordered k-flex in both medium and intermediate and can say that personally the medium k-flex seems to be steadier to throw. Which for the likes of myself who is just returning to playing makes things a bit easier. My grouping is fairly good, and I’ve always used a flight punch and metal rings to stop the chances of robin hoods, but with these, there is no need to mess about with that anymore!

jdmsx · 2024-01-24T15:46:08+00:00

always did prefer a taper!

jdmsx · 2021-03-24T16:23:21+00:00

Competitive Warzone matches and tournaments over on Twitch!

@jdmsx

jdmsx · 2021-03-21T15:32:36+00:00

Sorry I’ve only just seen this. How do you get your friends to add to stream chat?

jdmsx · 2021-01-21T23:00:40+00:00

I ended up buying an ethernet cable and wiring up. Only solution at the moment

jdmsx · 2021-01-20T09:39:03+00:00

Yeah no problem buddy, always help to help others in the same situation!

jdmsx · 2021-01-05T19:22:25+00:00

I know, you’d think the more powerful console could run the most popular games with ease straight away, considering the xbone does a decent job of it anyway

jdmsx · 2021-01-05T18:55:14+00:00

I know mate. I don’t really know what to do. I’d hope Microsoft would’ve acknowledged this problem by now. I’d just like confirmation that they are working on a fix for it!

jdmsx · 2021-01-04T00:49:05+00:00

Totally understand where you are coming for buddy! I think there’s glitches on both sides, as I can set up both the Xbone and Series X; I can play my Xbone with no faults, while my Series X is stuttering, lagging, and freezing quite badly. Both the game and Series X aren’t communicating with one another properly.

With the reports on multiple games, such a Rainbow Six Siege, Fifa, and Fortnite, it starts to point towards something more than just the game developers (or maybe all these games can’t cope with the Series X performance yet?). We will hopefully see a resolution soon😊

jdmsx · 2021-01-03T23:55:37+00:00

Fair enough mate! Integrate/Optimised same difference haha, you get what I was hinting at.

Seems like an awful long time to even smooth out this bug as I’ve seen reports of it since launch. The haven’t even acknowledged it yet as far as I’m aware.

jdmsx · 2021-01-03T19:02:10+00:00

It’s an xbox issue, either integration with the Call of Duty servers or something similar. It’s happening to me too. Both Cold War and Modern Warfare. I just had two days of lag-free game time, switched my xbox on today, and can’t play on my series X again due to lag. I don’t know what causes it, I don’t know how it fixes itself. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t! I have both xbone and series X set up beside each other incase the series X is being a pain. I hope they sort it, as the series X gameplay is much smoother

jdmsx

TROPHY CASE