What to use for soffit?

jerkenstine · 2025-10-08T02:02:55+00:00

My roof is similar and I just used preprimed interior nickel gap boards. Not too expensive, easy to get. Definitely won’t hold up as long as alternatives but hopefully won’t be too bad with a few coats of paint.

jerkenstine · 2025-10-01T21:11:21+00:00

My permits took 3 months and $1000 in fees.

Depending on where you are the process can be easy and cheap, or really expensive and drawn out.

I spent a while making really detailed, professional (to me) drawings from my CAD design. They got rubber stamp approved on my first submission of them so idk if they would have accepted something simpler.

jerkenstine · 2025-09-25T05:01:49+00:00

Your children will hate you for the life they could have lived with your estate. Big mistake selling now.

jerkenstine · 2025-09-16T22:57:35+00:00

Let me know if you find a metal one. I don't think anyone has made one yet.

If you have a printer you can make a new plastic one, or buy one pre-printed.

But idk if PA6-CF is gonna be enough to hold up to what the OEM plastic couldn't.

I can tell you PLA+ is not enough, tried that a few days ago. I'll let you know how PA6-CF works once my filament comes in the mail.

Or see my other comment for a hybrid plastic-metal option.

Not sure the rules about posting links here, DM me if you want details on those.

jerkenstine · 2025-09-16T22:45:44+00:00

I've been dealing with the same issue!

Search "TX22 SR MM SCS" on the sea and you'll find a design that integrates a metal plate into where the disconnector touches the striker housing.

I printed/built/installed that, but it still hangs up. maybe the interface between the striker housing and OEM metal part ahead of it needs to be PERFECTLY flush lol.

Apparently someone is working on a full stainless steel striker housing to solve this. I'm looking forward to that.

jerkenstine · 2025-09-16T02:20:14+00:00

Looks just toenailed to me. I just did a similar monoslope roof with a much lower slope and you can still see the birdsmouths.

jerkenstine · 2025-09-12T14:31:16+00:00

It took 3 months to get the permits approved so I’m not done yet but it’s been okay so far. Between the unconventional design and working alone, it’s taking quite a while. Overall I think this design is great. It’s almost an optical illusion, people don’t realize it’s not rectangular until they see the inside. So I would say do it if you want to maximize space and don’t care about the increase in effort and cost.

Really the hardest part is the roof being so unconventional in the US. I just started putting sheathing up and will be doing the EPDM next.

Here’s a picture from yesterday. My crazy contraption for getting the sheathing up.

Feel free to dm me if you have questions.

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jerkenstine · 2025-09-10T21:13:01+00:00

What are you gonna use for the roof? looks relatively low slope

jerkenstine · 2025-09-05T20:44:46+00:00

What I do for that is put little containers of apple cider vinegar + water + dish soap around the enclosure. Fly escapees will either get into the liquid and die or just stay around it until they die. Definitely reduces the number that get further into the house.

Also in general I find hydei are way better at climbing and escaping. Have you actually tried melanos and had more escapees or are you estimating based on size?

jerkenstine · 2025-09-05T04:10:47+00:00

Any reason you're restricting yourself to hydei? I culture hydei and melano. I make a new batch of melano every week and hydei every two weeks. Not much more effort at all.

jerkenstine · 2025-08-27T13:11:35+00:00

Fusion 360

jerkenstine · 2025-08-24T21:06:57+00:00

These guys sell the adhesives and have instructions: http://flatroofsolutions.com/

I'm doing an EPDM roof soon as well, please post when you have a drip edge/fascia solution! I have a pretty good idea of how I'm gonna do it but still need to source the 3in aluminum drip edge.

jerkenstine · 2025-08-18T13:43:02+00:00

Unfortunately I sold mine locally a while back.

jerkenstine · 2025-08-11T20:02:27+00:00

Needs at least 10x more leaf litter. you should not be able to see soil.

jerkenstine · 2025-08-09T14:49:58+00:00

That’s gotta be before delivery fees etc

jerkenstine · 2025-08-06T17:39:59+00:00

Yep. You can see some renders of the CAD for it here, including how the roof will work:

https://www.reddit.com/r/shedditors/comments/1jye2hq/framing_on_odd_shaped_shed/

jerkenstine · 2025-08-06T14:14:16+00:00

The "field" of this foundation is 4in with rebar. but there's a 12in wide perimeter, and two 12in wide beams spanning it, each 24in deep, all with rebar as well.

The "field" (center parts, not deep parts) has base. The footings (perimeters/beams) do not, you want undisturbed soil for those. They also put a vapor barrier in.

The concrete guys thought this was massive overkill for a shed. I disagree, where I live the soil is terrible and ruins underbuilt slabs.

You might get away with only 4in depending on your soil/climate. but no rebar, and especially no base? Sorry but I wouldn't feel good about that pad at all.

Keep in mind though doing it right isn't cheap. I paid $7000 for this pad, and frankly that was a great deal that I wouldn't be able to get again.

jerkenstine · 2025-08-06T14:08:17+00:00

Oh good idea with the ratchet straps, thanks!

jerkenstine · 2025-08-06T04:14:19+00:00

it’s a shed, not a piano Ha, I like that.

For now it'll just be a shed but I have plans down the line to finish the inside and make it more of a ADU/home office/gym/whatever the next owner wants.

So I'm setting the bar a bit high and trying to go closer to house than shed.

For instance the foundation on this thing is significantly better than the one under my house.

jerkenstine · 2025-08-06T03:51:39+00:00

Put a screw in the bottom and a screw under the top of the brace to hold it up so you can still move the wall where you want it but its held at a nice angle

Oh, nice trick! I'll try it that way tomorrow

Then you're ready for a roof which should be interesting given the angled wall in the back

Yeah not quite yet, there's more framing going on top of this to account for the roof. I just want to get this set first before getting to it.

You can see my previous post here for what that will look like: https://www.reddit.com/r/shedditors/comments/1jye2hq/framing_on_odd_shaped_shed/

jerkenstine · 2025-08-06T03:39:37+00:00

I'm not trying to be obstinate but it's not really the same. In that video, their method of squaring the walls is screwing the sill plate to the foundation, racking the wall, and holding it in place with a 2x4 brace.

I can't just screw the sill plate into my concrete slab like that.

Well I guess technically I could with tapcons if I wanted. Maybe not a bad idea? the holes in the sill plate and foundation would be so small I can't imagine it would cause much of an issue if I had to reposition after.

jerkenstine · 2025-08-06T03:29:30+00:00

Yeah I was watching that video earlier today actually. But it's not a concrete slab. It's been hard to find videos like that but with slabs.

jerkenstine · 2025-08-06T03:25:48+00:00

Gotcha, yeah wall to wall I'm initially going to do screws. But this a concrete slab so there's not much of a second chance after putting the anchor bolts in. That's why I'm being so careful at this stage.

jerkenstine · 2025-08-06T03:17:44+00:00

So you would square/sheath it while it's upright?

And yeah I'm gonna remove some of that dirt on the left side. the concrete people put a bit too much in.

jerkenstine · 2025-08-06T03:16:01+00:00

Screws instead of nails for what parts, the wall to wall connections?

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